Installing new CPS now; need help

[Marccus]

I read through the instructions on installing the CPS from the search command, but I really don't understand them.

(1) I'm installing the new water pump after installing the CPS, right?

(2) Where are the vanes?

To me they are on the timing gear, right? So I gap 0.76 mm between the three timing gear vanes and the CPS pickup, right?

(3) I can't seem to maneuver myself and my arms to get a 0.75 mm thick ... my mind went blank I can't remember what you call them ... between the vanes and the CPS.

The CPS wires are very stiff, and bent a certain way that it is very unwieldy to control the harness.

So I think I should connect the CPS connector and tab first.

(4) Where and to what does the tab on the CPS harness (about midway up) connect to?

(5) Do you feed the CPS from the top of the engine down, snaking the CPS pickup through the intake manifold and the back of the timing belt rear coner ...

... or do you feed the CPS connector from the bottom up through said area?

(6) Does the CPS harness go in front of the fuel rails or behind them?

If I thread CPS connector in front of the fuel rails It is very close to the other connector and extremely difficult to bend the harness and connect it. It seems I am just putting to much stress on the harness and that this doesn't seem to be the place where the harness should be.

The entire connector assembly sticks up too high above the engine then because it won't stay bent in the position that keeps it on top of the intake manifold.

(7) There is that stupid white finned push through connector on the CPS connector. I usually take them off the connectors.

There doesn't appear to be a place where this thing connects to - i.e. you push the finned stud of the white connector through something to hold it in place.

:sosad:

I'm getting discouraged for being stupid; a fast response will be helpful (although I realize it is Easter Sunday) but at the rate I work, I'll run out of daylight hours before I can get everything back together.

Please help.

Thanks.

 

[93rev2sev]

Water pump first.
on the timing gear
Got the wheel and underfender out of the way?
The long bolt/stud on the water pump
Loosen the rear timing cover and make room to snake it behind from aft of the water pump to in front of the fuel rails.
It will stick up...there is a x-mas tree on it to hold it down(7)

 

[shocar]

Your not stupid, you may be over complicating it. How far are you into the job. Let me know where you are and I will try to help.

 

[Marccus]

OK. I've installed the CPS and gapped it to 0.76mm. I have installed the water pump.

Now I have to go back and fix the tab on the CPS harness to the water pump bolt and re-snake the connector through the rear of the timing belt cover up through the front of the fuel rails.



How can I rotate the crank the check the gap on all three vanes? Can I use a strap wrench on the crankshaft snot or re-install the damper and rotate itg with my hands or a strap wrench 1/3 to get to the next vane.

 

[K-Dawg]

How can I rotate the crank the check the gap on all three vanes? Can I use a strap wrench on the crankshaft snot or re-install the damper and rotate itg with my hands or a strap wrench 1/3 to get to the next vane.

Do that, or put the trans in gear, drop a screw driver in the brake rotor with the wheel off (to stop it from spinning, and spin the other wheel.

 

[93rev2sev]

I just replace the crank bolt and put my 3/4" (or 19mm) on and turn the bolt.
A rap with a mallet on the ratchet frees the bolt when it's time...

 

[hawkeye18]

I have discovered an easy way to tighten the crank bolt on the ATX.

What you do is you tighten it down as far as you can without spinning the crank. Then, you reinstall all the pullies, tensioners, etc that you took off. You put the accessory belt on and tension it.

Then, you take a big screwdriver, wrench, whatever, and stick it through one of the holes on the power steering pump pulley. Rotate the crank until the screwdriver catches on the pump (you will want to use a sturdy screwdriver!).

Voila! now that the screwdriver is jamming up the entire accessory drive, you can torque the bejeezus out of the crank bolt without spinning anything (and it's a good way to find out if you have a loose belt!).

I did it yesterday on my crank bolt (I just got done doing a 60k as well) and I can personally attest that it works like a champ.

Make sure you tighten those crossover tube bolts to the rest of the intake, btw. I banged my head against the wall for a good two hours because I forgot to (WHY WON'T IT START!?!?!?!?!).

 

[Marccus]

:thankyou:

Thanks to all for suggestions.

I ended up putting the damper on and rotating the crank with my hand. I wasn't able to get the same gap on all three vanes but I hope this is close enough:

Vane 1: 0.75 mm
Vane 2: 0.70 mm
Vane 3: 0.85 mm

 

[K-Dawg]

The specified gap is only to ensure that the vanes don't contact the CPS and bust it off. No contact, and you are good.

 

[jbserra]

The specified gap is only to ensure that the vanes don't contact the CPS and bust it off. No contact, and you are good.

I've been searching for the CPS and gapping, and came across this post. I just want to verify what you had said. As long as the vanes don't hit the CPS, it should function. It's not dependent on the gap to ensure functionality? I ask because I had taken mine off, and now upon reconnection I can't start my car. It is an old CPS that had a leaky water pump above. I'm guessing it's toast...

Thanks in advance.

 

[93rev2sev]

Is it grounded? A lot of times, when people try to test start their car with a new CPS, they forget that the intake needs to be grounded to the firewall.

 

[SeanMc]

For gap, I just use a matchbook. Been working now for 2 years.

 

[jbserra]

I will check the ground, and try the matchbook gapper Thanks!

I also ordered a new CPS since I've never replaced it.

 

[Danz13]

I have discovered an easy way to tighten the crank bolt on the ATX.

What you do is you tighten it down as far as you can without spinning the crank. Then, you reinstall all the pullies, tensioners, etc that you took off. You put the accessory belt on and tension it.

Then, you take a big screwdriver, wrench, whatever, and stick it through one of the holes on the power steering pump pulley. Rotate the crank until the screwdriver catches on the pump (you will want to use a sturdy screwdriver!).

Voila! now that the screwdriver is jamming up the entire accessory drive, you can torque the bejeezus out of the crank bolt without spinning anything (and it's a good way to find out if you have a loose belt!).

I did it yesterday on my crank bolt (I just got done doing a 60k as well) and I can personally attest that it works like a champ.

Make sure you tighten those crossover tube bolts to the rest of the intake, btw. I banged my head against the wall for a good two hours because I forgot to (WHY WON'T IT START!?!?!?!?!).

You could also take off your starter and jam your screwdriver in there

 

[jbserra]

You know, I was in this thread to find out about gapping the CPS, but BOY it would have been good to slowly read hawkeye18's post, mostly the last couple sentences. I just did the same thing. I didn't tighten the intake bolts and the DIS wasn't grounded and I wasted an evening troubleshooting, not to mention bought the new CPS. I'm an idiot...

Well, I have a new CPS and the car starts.

Thanks all!

 

[hawkeye18]

Gets people all the time. Good to see your SHO is back on the road!

 

[jbserra]

93rev2sev, I'll give you thanks as well. What you said was accurate (a grounding problem), however I assumed you were referring to the ground strap on the back of the intake, which was connected. I thought I was in the clear wrt grounding the intake. I didn't connect the dots and realize it was the DIS that needed the ground, but it's connected by 2 rubber flex hoses. What's frustrating is I had the intake tube back on, and I had the bolts loosely holding it in place, but it wasn't enough for a good ground until I cranked them all the way in.

Oh well, time to button it up.

 

[ISHOU]

I know this thread is almost a year old but Autozone has a Duralast brand CPS for $23. Just installed it while fixing a case of crank cancer. We'll see how it holds up but that is a great price and it was available at the store which in the past it was an order item.

 

[93rev2sev]

Thats good info...usually, AZ has the Wells branded crank sensor for about $40. That's the one I've always used...I wonder if it's the same unit repackaged for AZ?

 

[K-Dawg]

I wondered the same thing. I almost bought it.