Installed a sub/amp combo... I got pwned!

[LJRuddy]

Well, I decided that it was time to install the JL 10w3 that I have had sitting in my house for over a year now. I picked it up for 50 bucks last year and got a ported sub box and a cheap amp for free with it. I also had a new in box line out converter.

After reading the directions, I figured that I needed to find the RR and LR speaker signal wires that go into the passenger side amp (JBL premo sound system in my 95) and cross them with the wires indicated on the line out converter. After finding the 4 wires for the 2 rear speakers, i attached them to the converter and sealed the connections with some solder and electrical tape. According to the converter's manual, all I needed to do was find the remote wire from the JBL system and attach it to the converter. I found this wire to be a solid blue wire. I attached that to the converter's remote wire in the same manner. From the diagrams on the manual, I found that the only wires i needed to hook up on the output side of the converter was the 2 RCA wires labeled "Rear" as well as the remote wire and attach these to the corresponding spots on my amp. I ran the power wire from the battery to the trunk and hooked everything up but nothing worked.

According to my volts meter, i am getting 11.79 volts at the terminal on my amp. I also plugged in my JL 10w7 into the stock sub amp in the car and it works so I know my sub is good. I am guessing my amp is bad but I am not certain as it worked the last time it was in use.

My question is this... Can anyone tell me what colors the 4 wires for the rear speakers are in a 1995 SHO with the JBL premium sound system? It was my understanding that I only needed to attach the 4 rear speaker wires to my line out converter and use the converters RCA wires labeled "Rear" to hook up to my amp. Is this correct?

Thanks a million!

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

You need to attach that blue remote wire, that should get power when the key is turned on, to the amp. This tells the amp to turn on when your car is on.

If the amp isnt turning on, I wouldnt even worry about the speaker wires.

To test the amp (JUST TO TEST IT), you can use a jumper wire or I use a pair of pliers and jump the battery wire to the remote wire terminal on the amp. This will turn the amp on...usually a green light somewhere. A yellow light indicates that something is wrong with the amp.

 

[LJRuddy]

So the blue wire should not be wired through the line out converter? I should just connect it to the amp itself?

 

[jthod]

yes, blue is connected to the ignition, and gives the amp power only when the ignition is in 'ON' or 'ACC' postion.

Sorry I couldn't helpyou too much today, work was stupid.

 

[hawkeye18]

LR+ = Pink / Light green
LR- = Dark Blue / Orange
RR+ = Pink / Light Blue
RR- = Brown / Pink

These are on the OUTPUT side of the amp (left side). This *is* where you tapped them from, right?

Also, the blue wire is a +5v logic high, which is NOT what an aftermarket amp needs. It needs a direct feed +12v signal. Found this out the hard way too. One of the RKEM module wires has a keyed +12v signal that you can tap off; look for a PINK / ORANGE wire. It actually only is hot on RUN, so you can have the added benefit of having your subs off in ACCY to conserve battery power!

 

[SuperHO]

All else fails, tap into the power wire for one of the JBL amps...if you have the sub amp, it'd be the red wire going to it.


Also...when wiring up the LOCs, it's quite easy to just hack into the speaker wires that're actually going to speakers...that way you're certain to get the proper wires.

 

[the4biddendonut]

You could use the blue amp turn on wire with an aftermarket amp if you used a relay. Then you would just need to find a 12v source. That way it will function just like the stock radio.

 

[SuperHO]

Ain't that what we've been saying?

 

[LJRuddy]

LR+ = Pink / Light green
LR- = Dark Blue / Orange
RR+ = Pink / Light Blue
RR- = Brown / Pink

These are on the OUTPUT side of the amp (left side). This *is* where you tapped them from, right?

Also, the blue wire is a +5v logic high, which is NOT what an aftermarket amp needs. It needs a direct feed +12v signal. Found this out the hard way too. One of the RKEM module wires has a keyed +12v signal that you can tap off; look for a PINK / ORANGE wire. It actually only is hot on RUN, so you can have the added benefit of having your subs off in ACCY to conserve battery power!

Well the amp is in upside down (Ford JBL stickers are upside down). I am tapping into the wires that are on the passenger side of the amp which would be the left (driver's) side if the amp were to be installed right side up. So do I need to splice into the wires on the opposite side then?

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

As stated, you need a 12 volt source that turns on and off with the key that goes to the AMP.

The LOC does not need any power...some have a ground wire and IMO, I wouldnt bother with it.

On the AMP you should have:
RCA's in
12 volt source from the battery
12 volt source from the fuse panel/radio that gets power with the ignition
ground to the car
speaker wires out to subs

For LOC:
wires in from rear speakers
RCA's out to amp

 

[the4biddendonut]

I didn't see any of you suggest using a relay. You all want the amp to turn on when he turns the key on. I suggested a way for the amp to turn on when the radio is turned on.

Ain't that what we've been saying?

 

[jthod]

Same difference, that's where you wire the remote wire in.

We talked last night, and from the sound of it, he's just going to use a switch, and tap off the power to the keyless entry or cig lighter.

 

[n8rsk8r]

a multimeter is your friend man Any updates?

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

or look at the owners manual and it tells you which fuses come on with the ignition and then you can buy a $2 fuse tap at autozone to wire in your remote wire.

Very easy this way and, more importantly, you cant forget to turn off the amp. If you leave the amp on overnight, you got a dead battery in the morning most likly.

 

[the4biddendonut]

x2 on that, the switch is not the way to go.

 

[SuperHO]

...or, once again, just tap into the remote wire for the factory amp...

 

[hawkeye18]

...or, once again, just tap into the remote wire for the factory amp...

...which, once again, is only a +5v logic high, and not the +12V that an amp requires for a remote wire. I've tried it; it didn't work.

 

[the4biddendonut]

...or, once again, just tap into the remote wire for the factory amp...

Maybe you should read through the thread again.

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

So....you got it working yet??

 

[Shopower400]

They make a 'special plug'/wiring harness if you will that connects/ bypasses the stock amps alltogether! As long as you have a decent headunit (which I assume you do) then you NEED this plug/ Wireharness!!! I swear by it!

I took out all the stock "Crap" used this 'Harness' to bypass the stock amps. From here you should have excellent sound coming from ALL your speakers!

After that checks out, you hook up the rest of your system (sub+amp & wiring) as normal.

I think I paid $10 from a local sound shop. Tell them the year and make, and someone will probably grab it & plug it together for you to test it before you leave (at least they did for me)

Hope this Helps!
Sal

P.S. It was a night & day difference after I had my head unit powering my door speakers; compared to the stock amps. Not to metion you'll shed about 10lbs.