Inner tie rod end replacement

[AutoXSHO]

Hey everyone,

I'm getting a clunk when I turn the wheel all the way in either direction. Also I get a clunk when driving down the road, from the right side. Looking over what I've replaced, only the passenger's side inner tie rod end (well, and the rack) haven't been replaced. i.e. new struts, springs, control arms, outer tie rod ends, driver's inner tie rod end, and the swaybar endlinks are all new.

My question is this. My rack also groans, and I sometimes get jerky or underpowered steering. I'm thinking the rack is probably toast too (140k miles - seem reasonable?). New/rebuilt racks come with inner tie rod ends installed. Should I replace the rack (which seems like it would be a pain to do) or just replace the tie rod end?

Anyone ever replaced an inner? How tough is it?

John V
95 MTX

 

[AutoXSHO]

Sig test

 

[TopSHO92]

First of all, when you say "control arms" did you actually replace the control arms (the arm that holds the stut in place) or did you replace the sway bar connecting links (the plastic links that connect the sway bar to the strut). Just curious because rarely do you have to replace the control arm.

If your connecting links are shot (which isn't common with the redesigned composite ones) it would cause a clunk. My '92 had the old steel ones, and they clunked constantly until I replaced them.

A bad inner tie rod usually doesn't cause a clunk, but can. There is one way to find out though. When the car is parked and not running, kneel down and grab the (actual) wheel with both hands (in your case it would be the right one) and try to turn it back and forth. Sometimes it takes some effort. If you hear a "hollow clunk" while doing this, on either wheel, your inner is shot. If you don't hear a "hollow" clunk but the wheel still has slack in it (ie: 0"-.25" movement) it may be the outer. One other way to check for either is seeing if you have excess slack in the steering wheel.

Also, from your description, is sounds like your rack is about shot too. "jerky underpowered" is a tell-tale sign. If you do decide that you can live with the bad rack for a time, DO NOT replace the inners. As you said, replacement racks come with the inners. ..and just for the record, I wouldn't advise trying to replace the inner tie rod without the proper tools. Removing the tie rod itself requires a long special socket. Trying to remove it with anything else could damage it, preventing it from ever being removed.

Sorry for the long-winded reply, but I hope it helps...

 

[AutoXSHO]

I replaced both control arms due to ball-joint wear. Here's a list of what is new (or 20,000 miles old)

* R/L Ball joint (entire control arm replaced).
* R/L Outer Tie rod end
* Driver's inner tie rod (a shop did this)
* New composite endlinks
* Tokico Struts
* Eibach Springs
* Moog lifetime warranty strut tops/bearings

As you can see the only thing left is the passenger's inner tie rod end - and the strut rod bushings which are fine.

Thanks for the insight, I've never had to replace an inner. I'll just wait a while and replace the entire rack.

John V