Idle wont keep up. HELP URGENT! *please*

[Phoenix]

Alright here it is.

40+ cams , high flow fuel pump sold from RCM (I was told it was a 170 but I thought it was a 155 --- could it be a 190? Carter model) 80mm mark8 maf , ported , fidanza + more.

I had an injector leaking at first (the gas was going in the channel valley)(Car idles and runs FLAWLESSLY) I forgot a rubber seal. So i replaced it , but now it runs like crap.

Problem : It wont Idle too well , stall often , Stall EVERYTIME I wind it up high then when it comes near idle it stalls.

What I did : With the tweecer RT , I put the idle up to 900 , better but still stalling. Then I swapped with the stock MAF , better but still stalls.

What I want to try : check the fuel pressure , do a Idle reset.


Could a 190 pump do this? (no i dont have a regulator besides stock.)

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Backtrack everything you did to replace the injector seal. If it was idling perfectly before you changed the seal, something isn't the same afterwards. Start with simple things like vacuum leaks, make sure the intake is properly seated to the head, and that all your grounds are clean and secure (I've seen people forget the two bolts securing the crossover tube have idle and stalling problems countless times).

 

[Phoenix]

Backtrack everything you did to replace the injector seal. If it was idling perfectly before you changed the seal, something isn't the same afterwards. Start with simple things like vacuum leaks, make sure the intake is properly seated to the head, and that all your grounds are clean and secure (I've seen people forget the two bolts securing the crossover tube have idle and stalling problems countless times).

Will do sir.

But just to come back at what you said , the injector leak was REALLY bad , it sprayed enough that it was dripping on the floor.

My thoughts at first was that since it "releaved" some pressure , maybe that was enough to make the car go well if the pump was overkill.

Meanwhile i'll drop a mail to RCM who sold me that pump.

Thanks.

 

[Sho Amo]

id say check for vac leaks.

 

[Phoenix]

id say check for vac leaks.

Done with propane torch nothing came up.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Cams and a light weight flywheel will do this. When I had stage 2 cams and a 9lbs flywheel, it would stall when the revs dropped too fast (I have a video of this at home). With stage 1 cams and the same flywheel, it was better, but I needed to raise the idle a bit.

I ran with my idle at 1,144 RPM for quite some time with the stage 1 cams and Fidanza, however, now that I am tuning the idle with the TwEECer, I've dropped it to 1,000 RPM.

Adjusting the dashpot will adjust how fast the revs drop when you push in the clutch.

I have since gone to a stock flywheel again because the stage 3 clutch just seems to be too much for that aluminum flywheel. That smoothed out the idle greatly.

Essentially, this sounds like something you'll have to tune out if you want to continue with this setup.

 

[Phoenix]

Cams and a light weight flywheel will do this. When I had stage 2 cams and a 9lbs flywheel, it would stall when the revs dropped too fast (I have a video of this at home). With stage 1 cams and the same flywheel, it was better, but I needed to raise the idle a bit.

I ran with my idle at 1,144 RPM for quite some time with the stage 1 cams and Fidanza, however, now that I am tuning the idle with the TwEECer, I've dropped it to 1,000 RPM.

Adjusting the dashpot will adjust how fast the revs drop when you push in the clutch.

I have since gone to a stock flywheel again because the stage 3 clutch just seems to be too much for that aluminum flywheel. That smoothed out the idle greatly.

Essentially, this sounds like something you'll have to tune out if you want to continue with this setup.

Awesome , Thanks for the help. I will raise up the idle a bit and see what happens

 

[Lupo]

Awesome , Thanks for the help. I will raise up the idle a bit and see what happens

If you end up taking the intake off again, check out the IAC, and clean the **** out of it. I removed my intake once, and put it back on perfectly. No idle whatsoever. Idled fine before. Make a long story short, I spent days pulling my hair out until I just made a last ditch effort, and bought a brand new IAC from Ford. Started right up and idled fine. No clue why a good IAC would simply stop working, but oh well...

 

[PAracer]

As Jason said, dashpot settings affect how fast the car idles down. You will not hurt the car by playing with these numbers. Try doubling the numbers in the dashpot tables.

 

[SeanMc]

Cams and a light weight flywheel will do this. When I had stage 2 cams and a 9lbs flywheel, it would stall when the revs dropped too fast (I have a video of this at home). With stage 1 cams and the same flywheel, it was better, but I needed to raise the idle a bit.

I ran with my idle at 1,144 RPM for quite some time with the stage 1 cams and Fidanza, however, now that I am tuning the idle with the TwEECer, I've dropped it to 1,000 RPM.

Adjusting the dashpot will adjust how fast the revs drop when you push in the clutch.

I have since gone to a stock flywheel again because the stage 3 clutch just seems to be too much for that aluminum flywheel. That smoothed out the idle greatly.

Essentially, this sounds like something you'll have to tune out if you want to continue with this setup.

I'm running stage 2s on an ATX and with the tweecer, I've got the idle set to about 950. It's a slightly lopey idle, but when you turn on the a/c, it's perfect, and idling around 1050-1100. Any higher it feels like I'm about to do a brake stand.