hub on 94 mtx
- Thread starter CrazieSHO
- Start date
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hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Define "do the front right hub". Are you trying to change out the wheel bearing? Replace the hub?
If you're going to replace the wheel bearing and hub, you need a 10 ton shop press to press the bearing out, which will require removal of the whole knuckle.
If you're going to replace the wheel bearing and hub, you need a 10 ton shop press to press the bearing out, which will require removal of the whole knuckle.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Well that would be a bad thing. Yes, you have to take the knuckle off the car to replace the hubs as they must be machine-pressed both out and back in. There is a specific sequence you must press in otherwise you'll dick the bearings up (probably not as bad as they're already dicked up, but still). I can't remember it, though.
This shows how to do the press part of it for an MX6, but its the same for the SHO. The critical part is in the last step you must press the knuckle onto the hub, and not the other way around. This guide shows the right way.
http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-ge...ngs-hydraulic-press-required.html#post2145911
To remove knuckle, procedure from FSM:
Removal
1. Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2. Remove hub nut as outlined.
3. Raise vehicle on a hoist.
4. Remove tire and wheel assembly.
5. Remove cotter pin from the tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
6. Using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter T81P-3504-W or equivalent, remove tie rod end from knuckle.
7. Remove stabilizer bar link assembly from strut.
8. Remove brake caliper and wire in such a manner as to obtain working space. Remove brake rotor.
9. Loosen, but do not remove, three top retaining nuts (top mount-to-shock tower).
Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
NOTE:
Ensure steering column is in unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate ball joint from knuckle.Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.
11. Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint.
CAUTION:
Do not allow the halfshaft to move outboard. Over-extension of the tripod CV joint could result in separation of internal parts, causing failure of the joint.
12. Press halfshaft from hub as outlined. Wire halfshaft to body to maintain a level position.
13. Remove rotor splash shield, if so equipped, from knuckle. Refer to «Section 06-03».
14. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from the shock absorber strut.
15. Place assembly on a bench and remove the hub, retainer ring and bearing as outlined.
http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-ge...ngs-hydraulic-press-required.html#post2145911
To remove knuckle, procedure from FSM:
Removal
1. Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2. Remove hub nut as outlined.
3. Raise vehicle on a hoist.
4. Remove tire and wheel assembly.
5. Remove cotter pin from the tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
6. Using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter T81P-3504-W or equivalent, remove tie rod end from knuckle.
7. Remove stabilizer bar link assembly from strut.
8. Remove brake caliper and wire in such a manner as to obtain working space. Remove brake rotor.
9. Loosen, but do not remove, three top retaining nuts (top mount-to-shock tower).
Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
NOTE:
Ensure steering column is in unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate ball joint from knuckle.Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.
11. Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint.
CAUTION:
Do not allow the halfshaft to move outboard. Over-extension of the tripod CV joint could result in separation of internal parts, causing failure of the joint.
12. Press halfshaft from hub as outlined. Wire halfshaft to body to maintain a level position.
13. Remove rotor splash shield, if so equipped, from knuckle. Refer to «Section 06-03».
14. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from the shock absorber strut.
15. Place assembly on a bench and remove the hub, retainer ring and bearing as outlined.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
I think your SHO is taking your username a little too seriously.
I have to do the hub this week,all the seals on the inside next week, then I gotta do shocks and tires.body is in. great shape and the motirs not bad but the hit didn't keep up with it it sat on his yard for 2 years.never got started.got it fir 700 though.
))
))pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
thats bad. makes it much more difficult to remove the outer race from the knuckle. you may need to cut it out with a torch. easier to obtain a better knuckle from a bone yard and start over.
Perry
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Will the pickle fork fit into where the tie rod end is? Yeah? Then SHAZAM, it's a tie-rod end remover.
It's all about makin' it work. FWIW, a strategy that has worked well for me is a three-pronged approach: PB Blaster, a prybar, and a hammer. Spray the PB blaster down into where the tie rod end goes into the knuckle. Let soak for a few minutes. Apply liberally. Then, take prybar and pry up (using the knuckle as a brace) on the tie-rod end right behind the ball joint using moderate, steady pressure. You're not trying to force it out with the prybar, just keep pressure on it.
The third step is to beat, with a hammer or small sledge, the side of the mounting hole where the tie-rod goes into. This breaks the bond that rust has formed between the TRE and the knuckle. While you're beating the side of it, the constant pressure from the prybar should pop that sucker right out. If you are putting too much pressure on it, stuff will then go flying and inevitably hit you in the face, so keep that in mind.
It might take a while (and a second soaking with the PB), but it's always worked for me. And this way, you can reuse it afterward if you're planning on it, instead of mushrooming the end of the threaded stud with a hammer trying to beat on that.
It's all about makin' it work. FWIW, a strategy that has worked well for me is a three-pronged approach: PB Blaster, a prybar, and a hammer. Spray the PB blaster down into where the tie rod end goes into the knuckle. Let soak for a few minutes. Apply liberally. Then, take prybar and pry up (using the knuckle as a brace) on the tie-rod end right behind the ball joint using moderate, steady pressure. You're not trying to force it out with the prybar, just keep pressure on it.
The third step is to beat, with a hammer or small sledge, the side of the mounting hole where the tie-rod goes into. This breaks the bond that rust has formed between the TRE and the knuckle. While you're beating the side of it, the constant pressure from the prybar should pop that sucker right out. If you are putting too much pressure on it, stuff will then go flying and inevitably hit you in the face, so keep that in mind.
It might take a while (and a second soaking with the PB), but it's always worked for me. And this way, you can reuse it afterward if you're planning on it, instead of mushrooming the end of the threaded stud with a hammer trying to beat on that.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
That should last pretty well.
For about 100 miles.
Also, I like how you're letting the caliper hang by the rubber hose. That's probably not bad for it, right?
For about 100 miles.
Also, I like how you're letting the caliper hang by the rubber hose. That's probably not bad for it, right?
there is a very clear reason why it won't last - he is pounding on the inner race, not the outer race. to press the bearing in properly, you must press the outer race.
when you press (or hammer) on the inner race, you put all that force through the balls or rollers of the bearing. they will not stand for that, and you will put flat spots on the balls or rollers. this is called 'brinelling' of the bearing. as the bearing gets used, the flat spots will ruin the bearing.
the balls or rollers are extremely ******* the outside, but are softer steel inside. when the ball or roller has a flat spot on it, and is rotated at speed, it will cause the hard outer section of the ball or roller to start to flake off. this is called 'spalling'. once that starts, it is a short time until the bearing looks just like the one you just took out, and you will be having a chance to repeat your efforts.
when you press (or hammer) on the inner race, you put all that force through the balls or rollers of the bearing. they will not stand for that, and you will put flat spots on the balls or rollers. this is called 'brinelling' of the bearing. as the bearing gets used, the flat spots will ruin the bearing.
the balls or rollers are extremely ******* the outside, but are softer steel inside. when the ball or roller has a flat spot on it, and is rotated at speed, it will cause the hard outer section of the ball or roller to start to flake off. this is called 'spalling'. once that starts, it is a short time until the bearing looks just like the one you just took out, and you will be having a chance to repeat your efforts.
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