Hub Bearing Removal and Installation...

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SableSal

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There was a member of SHOForum who wanted to know how to R&R the front wheel Hub Bearings. Well, I told him I would post pics of it all, which I will in a couple of hours.

Im off to tare apart my front end.


*Warning!!! SARCs will not me removed. Seeing I have a Sable.

Sables = NO SARCs.




Sal
 

SableSal

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Here they are as promised.

What you're going to first want to do is get rid of the Caliper. I went ahead and removed it from the caliper bracket itself. Much easier this way. Caliper Mounting Bracket uses a 15mm socket.

000_0280.jpg


Then remove the tie rod end. This end uses a 18mm socket. Note there's a cotter pin holding this thing in place (for added security). Remove the cotter pin, then I used an impact to remove the hex nut. I then threaded it back on half ways, using the socket used to remove the hex nut, place it back on the nut, and hammer the tie rod end out.
This is the easiest and safest method when using removing.

The Lower Ball Joint will have to be removed from the Lower Control Arm. This uses a 21mm Socket. Completely remove the hex nut from the ball joint. Now with a hammer give the lower control arm a couple of good hits (near the balljoint). This should allow the pressed/threaded area of the ball joint to seperate from the lower control arm.

Once it's loosened. Use a pry bar to hold the lower control arm out of the way of the ball joint. (Warning: Becareful of the endlinks, the strut and assy will move towards the right when you do this).

000_0281.jpg


Next remove the Endlink from the strut. The Endlink uses a 18mm Socket for the Hext Nut and a 8mm Socket for the end of the threaded area. (Note: If you are only performing work on one side of the vehicle. The vehicle will need to be lifted on the opposite side of the work area. This is due to the tension and weight on the sway bar).

Now remove the mounting hex nuts at the top of the strut tower. These hex nuts use a 13mm socket. (Warning: Do not remove the hex nut in the MIDDLE of the strut assy. This nut may be under high pressure).

If the vehicle is equipped with ABS, the wiring for the sensor may have to be removed.

Once the strut assy is removed, the rear of the knuckle should look something like this

000_0282.jpg

Note: My damn Rotor was pretty attached to my damn Hub Assy... So don't mind the pic of the Rotor still attached...lol


Now remove the Hub Assembly. This uses a 15mm socket for three hex bolts.

Once removed, you should see something like this.

000_0283.jpg


Installation is reverse of removal.


Good Luck!!!




Sal
 

Mac98SHO

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Those pictures make it look tad easier than it is.... LOL

***missing a few well placed words and sweat***

I just got thru replacing 2 steering knuckes and 1 bearing hub on my front end.... My brand new air compressor earned it money.

I left the struts in, maybe I should have done it your way, one less hassle and probally would have saved me sometime.

Goodluck
 

SHOZ123

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Taking the struts out is a piece of cake if you do one side at a time and lower the subframe on that side. I can get them out in about 20 minutes per side.

The hubs though I have never done. 3 years ago I had bad front bearings and had new hubs put in at a shop.
 

SableSal

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I like it my way. That way I can struggle with the struts on a more "personal" level... Damn struts...lol

Thanks for the replies ;)



Sal
 

Mac98SHO

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I probally know the answer to this question, but I will ask anyway.

Well I just got my SHO back on all fours and damm if the ABS light stayed on(was working fine before... darn 166K miles car). I had odd feeling, as I was fighting to remove these things of the steering knuckle.... I was bound to screw one or both up..

Can these only be purchased thru Ford dealership?

Thanks
 

SableSal

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Best way is to keep them on the steering knuckle, and disconnect the sensors wiring harness located behind the mud guards.

But yes, you can get these at the dealerships. They still use these very sensors on the newer cars.

Much like how they still used the side marker lenses on the newest generation T-Bird ;)



Sal
 

Mac98SHO

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SableSal said:
Best way is to keep them on the steering knuckle, and disconnect the sensors wiring harness located behind the mud guards.

But yes, you can get these at the dealerships. They still use these very sensors on the newer cars.

Much like how they still used the side marker lenses on the newest generation T-Bird ;)



Sal

Yea I figure that out after I had it all apart and following the direction... and not just using my common sense....lol Thanks .... for the info.. if you are at the convention look me up. TTYL
 

SableSal

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Unfortunetly I won't be there... I'm moving to Livonia, MI. So if you're around there. Look me up!


Sal
 

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