How to restore the A/C system?

[shobhakti]

I've looked for a thread about restoring the A/C function, but can not find one. I live in FL and it is HOT, time to refrigerate!

So the question is what are the best, most economical steps to take when attempting such a job? I have heard about a "kit" that contains all the engine bay components for something like $500, has anyone heard of this? If you have, where would I purchase such a "kit"?

Or do I just start peacing it together? Start with the compressor, filter and flush?? Seams like one of those things about these cars that needs to be done all at once or left alone, lol.

CB

 

[JRA2000TL]

Well....first of all, what's wrong with the a/c? Does the compressor work at all? Does it work but just blow cool and not cold? Has the refrigerent just leaked out?

If the compressor is bad, I would replace it, as well as the accumulator/dryer, and the liquid line with the integrated oriface tube. Unless your condenser or evaporator coil is bad, I would not mess with that.

Is your system already retrofitted to 134a? If you're unsure, you can check the fittings. The 134a's are larger, the R12's are smaller and look like a schrader valve/tire valve stem.

If your other lines are in ok shape, re-use them. To remove the compressor you'll need to remove the battery, battery tray, and alternator and remove it from above.

I'm not sure of these kits you speak of, but the common a/c parts (compressor, accumulator, liquid line, condenser, evap core, etc.) are all widely available; some of the a/c lines are not. Shop around for prices. RockAuto is usually very cheap.

 

[sho4life]

How bout a step by step on how to add freon after and engine install.?

 

[shobhakti]

One of the cars has a blown clutch, evidence would be the hot plastic that seeped out of the compressor pulley area and consequently was thrown about the front of the engine at the time of failure while I was driving it. That system has been down for two yrs. Just a new clutch/compressor?

two other systems are blowing hot air, haven't a clue of any other symptoms or how to tell if a thing is going on or not on these cars.

One another car has a noticeably defective clutch also, but we got that car in that condition, so I do not know any more about it.

I got no problem removing any components, just point, lol. Please don't say the dash!!

Are there any threads that talk about how the system functions? What is the general malfunction when they fail? Is there a way to get a code for this?

How can I tell if a part is good or not? Dose exterior surface rust denote a marginal component? How would I know if the compressor is bad? Are there only two switches?

I do have the motor out of the Blue ATX Stripper for bearings, gaskets and tranny seals(the one in the bell-housing had no rubber at all and was loosing enough fluid to slip out of gear at a stop!) so it is an excellent time to disassemble and refurbish. Everything "looks" ok but I just do not know. I always leave the A/C compressors and systems intact and connected when I take the engine out the top. The system is not opened up at this time. But this is the car that I'm sure needs a compressor because of a visibly compromised pulley/clutch(some metal plate is loose and shifts around), so can I start by installing a used one first? Or are used parts out of the question? And do the ATX and MTX compressors interchange?

:thankyou:

 

[shobhakti]

Well....first of all, what's wrong with the a/c? Does the compressor work at all? Does it work but just blow cool and not cold? Has the refrigerent just leaked out?

If the compressor is bad, I would replace it, as well as the accumulator/dryer, and the liquid line with the integrated oriface tube. Unless your condenser or evaporator coil is bad, I would not mess with that.

Is your system already retrofitted to 134a? If you're unsure, you can check the fittings. The 134a's are larger, the R12's are smaller and look like a schrader valve/tire valve stem.

If your other lines are in ok shape, re-use them. To remove the compressor you'll need to remove the battery, battery tray, and alternator and remove it from above.

I'm not sure of these kits you speak of, but the common a/c parts (compressor, accumulator, liquid line, condenser, evap core, etc.) are all widely available; some of the a/c lines are not. Shop around for prices. RockAuto is usually very cheap.

So do I have to flush before I assemble new parts? How? How do I tell if a part is bad?

I also haven't a clue how to properly charge the system. I think I blew up the Gen 2 wagon A/C system a few yrs ago(I think) by over charging it(as I was told by a shop) and have been skittish ever sense about trying again without instruction from the gurus.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Someone with more knowledge will want to chime in and help you out. I'm familiar with the a/c systems from lots of reading on here and in general, but I have never done a/c work on my SHO.

I have always heard that when replacing any a/c component that you need to vacuum the system. Chances are that you're not replacing each and every component of the entire system, so you will want to pull a vacuum on it to get any crap out of the lines (since you'll most likely re-use some of them).

As for "diagnosing" the parts, I'm not sure. There's an electrical switch on the compressor, I know. I've heard of jumpering this switch to see if it kicks on. If you do find your compressor bad, just replace the compressor/clutch assembly as a whole. The 134a setups take 8 oz. of PAG oil, I believe.

Hopefully someone else will step in that knows more and can help you out better.

 

[32MTX]

doing your a/c system properly is not one of thos DIY type of things

you need special equiptment to do it right

and if you have no clue why its not working you are going to throw away hundreds of dollars buying useless parts you didn't need........

try taking it to a mechanic and have them diagnose why it doesn't work, the money you spend on that can save you a lot when you figure out just what needs to be replaced. Maybe you have a hole in the condenser, and all u really needed was the condenser, but you whent out and got a compressor, dryer, liquid line... you just waisted all that money for those parts and never even fixed the real problem.... get what I mean?

don't dump 8oz of pag oil in your compressor as previously noted, the entire system takes 8oz of oil..... the compressor might hold 2-3 ounces

vacuuming it doesn't flush out contaminates, the only real way to get rid of contaminates is to change the entire system. Flushing doesn't cut it. Vacuuming down the system is just removing atmospheric air and moisture. Please use straight 134a freon and pag46 oils. Don't use any special stuff that has sealers in it or different kinds of snake oil for the A/C oil because you will 100% cause more harm then good......

 

[shobhakti]

try taking it to a mechanic and have them diagnose why it doesn't work, the money you spend on that can save you a lot when you figure out just what needs to be replaced. Maybe you have a hole in the condenser, and all u really needed was the condenser, but you whent out and got a compressor, dryer, liquid line... you just waisted all that money for those parts and never even fixed the real problem.... get what I mean?

That is exactly what I would like to avoid.

Problem is finding an honest person these days.

 

[32MTX]

well you can atleast do the repairs yourself to save money

you would just be paying them a fee to tell you whats wrong.....

in the end u would still need to charge it up, but you'd be paying that anyways if you just took the whole thing a shop in the first place. This way you can save almost half in parts prices and have no labor costs.....

 

[JRA2000TL]

I just watched a video on flushing an a/c system. Wow, what a PITA and major special tools required. My 89's compressor is noisy but it cools to 40 degrees out of the center vent and works well for now. I WAS going to do the work myself when the compressor finally goes---but I guess not. $1200+ for a new system.

I'm with the OP....those w/ experience, give us good advice on what we can/should do ourselves to save $ and where we need to spend the $ to have the shop do what they need to do to "do it right" (i.e. let them flush/vacuum/recharge, etc.)

 

[sperold]

If you are looking for AC info, you should post in the "engine and AC" section just above where you have posted.
I went to a shop, paid about $700.00 to have everything done "properly" and within a year, the system has leaked down enough to be inoperable. So going to the pro's is no guarantee.
Start out by refilling it with a kit and see if the thing works. Try this for a step by step: http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=111064
Then search the section I mentioned earlier and you will get enough information to proceed. Automatic and Manual cars have different lines connecting the components.
The compressor is a Nippondenso and can be bought new. There are plenty of threads on working with the front pulley clutch.
Do as much as you can yourself and you may have to take it to a shop in the end, but at least you will know what to ask for.

 

[32MTX]

where can u get a new SHO compressor?

 

[Art5]

does anyone know what is the right part number for the dryer for 95mtx?

 

[SHOtime2511]

doing your a/c system properly is not one of thos DIY type of things

you need special equiptment to do it right

and if you have no clue why its not working you are going to throw away hundreds of dollars buying useless parts you didn't need........

try taking it to a mechanic and have them diagnose why it doesn't work, the money you spend on that can save you a lot when you figure out just what needs to be replaced. Maybe you have a hole in the condenser, and all u really needed was the condenser, but you whent out and got a compressor, dryer, liquid line... you just waisted all that money for those parts and never even fixed the real problem.... get what I mean?

don't dump 8oz of pag oil in your compressor as previously noted, the entire system takes 8oz of oil..... the compressor might hold 2-3 ounces

vacuuming it doesn't flush out contaminates, the only real way to get rid of contaminates is to change the entire system. Flushing doesn't cut it. Vacuuming down the system is just removing atmospheric air and moisture. Please use straight 134a freon and pag46 oils. Don't use any special stuff that has sealers in it or different kinds of snake oil for the A/C oil because you will 100% cause more harm then good......

This^

 

[shobhakti]

Yes SPEROLD, I realized latter that I was in the wrong section for this topic, the home page I navigated from has a less than adequate description of each section.

So I think the best thing for me to do is attempt to find a local person that works out of his home on automotive A/C. A regular shop in town(I live 20mi from a city) will just be 'as it ever was' with the greed factor. I will resort to them if I fail to find a guy off Crag's list or by word of mouth.

Recharging a system seems to necessitate a method of removing atmosphere. Don't have it.

Do I have this right? Having gages and a pump is insufficient to do this evacuating the system on my patio? Not just removing atmosphere, I'm talking about "cleaning" it out of any possible debris. Right?

So just replacing a compressor(or any components) without "cleaning" the system seems like a waste of time/money in the end. Yes?/No?

Can we physically flush any A/C components, like we would a radiator, with water and then dry it? I know dumb question, but I have to ask!

 

[JRA2000TL]

To properly flush the system, you will need certain a/c solvents designed for your system. You cannot flush an a/c system with water; moisture will be left behind. These solvents are designed to evaporate. From that video I watched, I would never attempt to flush an a/c system myself. You need special equipment.

 

[shobhakti]

To properly flush the system, you will need certain a/c solvents designed for your system. You cannot flush an a/c system with water; moisture will be left behind. These solvents are designed to evaporate. From that video I watched, I would never attempt to flush an a/c system myself. You need special equipment.

Damn, Damn, Double Damn.

Thank you all for the information for me to proceed on this.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Here's the video. As I said...a PITA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeqhOqK1TNA

 

[32MTX]

never flush an a/c system with solvents

the only real way to flush it is with r134.... it removes the old oil, not all the contaminates, only way to remove contaminates is to replace components.

to flush with 134 u need a newer recovery machine and you have to bypass the orifice tube or expansion valve... and on a dual setup you have to do each one seperately...

 

[NEp8ntballer]

the car with the clutch pieces melted most likely has a seized compressor. can't tell you about the other one, but essentially any time you crack open the AC system you should replace the reciever/dryer.