How to know when rear calipers and ebrake cables are bad

[shojuan]

I was just under my car hitting my oil pan bolts and all my suspension nuts and bolts with PB Blaster in preparation for some semi major work. Couldn't find my goggles and had a drop of pb blaster drip from warm exhaust into my eye! Ouch! I hope I don't go blind in that eye!

Anyways I hit my ebrake return springs on the calipers pretty good with PB Blaster. Now I was thinking about replacing my rear brake calipers with some loaded Cardone rebuilts. Also was thinking about replacing ebrake cables. I've had some binding in the ebrake pedal. The rear pads on one side are shot, on the other side, well close to needing to be done. At a minimum I need new pin kits. I've also ordered a set of Carbotech Bobcat pads for the rear and am definately getting new rotors. And I'm replacing the rear wheel bearings. Originals aren't shot (yet) but rears are cheap and I figure it's possible that I've had overheating in that area thanks to sticky ebrake (but not sure)

Here's my dilema. After hitting that area with PB Blaster the ebrake seems to have a lot less binding. After working it a bit the foot goes to the floor on the ebrake pedal without snagging. Since the worst I get on these parts is light surface rust I don't have some nasty corrosion problem staring me in the face like rust belt people do that says, "damn, that part needs replacin'!"

Sorry for the length. Typical Rick. My QUESTION: HOW can I thourougghly test out the rear calipers for ebrake mechanism binding/failure to completely release, piston sticking, and also the ebrake cables? If those parts are good then I'll just be getting for the rear: new rotors, pin kits (and brackets if can't remove old pins from brackets...unless somebody suggests I replace brackets too regardless), Carbotech Bobcat pads, new rear wheel bearings. I'm going to add some stainless steel braided teflon brake lines possibly in the near future...Just going to buy bulk hose and fittings and make my own.

I'm on the fence about the loaded calipers (for the bonus pins, brakets, and boots! NOT for the $5 crap pads, lol) and new ebrake cables. Not cheap, but if I need them don't want to skimp. Can't really afford them, but I can't afford to screw up a $90 set of rear pads + new bearings + new rotors either.

 

[LaTechSHO]

i'd be more prone to replace the calipers before the cables in your situation. but replace the hoses before that even.

and in MY opinion i wouldn't put it back together without new bracket with pins.... its too cheap of insurance not to

the pins/brackets you know are a problem, the hoses are gonna be the most subtle about screwing up your expensive pads. Sure you can tell you have a problem if you pay close attention, but it may already do some damage before it has gotten bad enough to notice.

ANOTHER way to look at is is that brake fluid is going to break down the rubber in the caliper seals and the hoses, whereas with the cables you can lubricate them (as you did) and as long as you feel them moving freely they are ok. Hoses can collapse internally or stretch out under pressure....all under different temperature conditions when you can't be underneath it to look.

If it were me the priority list would be:

1. Pins/Boots/Brackets (this is under the assumption that the pins are a problem now.. if not then just the pins and boots with some good grease would be fine)
2. HOSES
3. Calipers (if you inspect them and see no leaking and no apparent problems with the piston seal... limited to no deterioration of the rubber i wouldn't bother)
4. Cables (once they are free just give them a touch of light machine oil...3in1 oil or something of that nature)


Louis

 

[shojuan]

Thanks Louis! I'll follow your suggestions. Now I just need to figure out exactly which fittings I need to make my own stainless braided teflon brake lines.

 

[Kevin Airth]

I would also change the rear rubber brake lines. Go with the SS ones if you want a better pedal feel. To check for full release of the emergency brake. Set the emergency brake and then crawl under car. Note how far the arm on the caliper rotates when the cables are tightened. Then stay under the car and have someone release the emergency brake. Make sure both sides release or rotate the same amount. Try to twist them further with pliers. If they move more then change the calipers and/or cables.