High Milage 2014

[ato137528]

Saw this recently. 208,403 miles. I'd love to talk to the owner(s) to see what kind of maintenance issues they had over that mileage. What broke? What was replaced before it broke?

 

[Shadow351]

i have currently have about 273k miles on my daily driver 2010 SHO. I would say it has been relatively reliable considering the milage on it, but It could be an outlier. Here are the maintenance/repair items I have done that I can think of off the top of my head:
-I did timing chains/water pump/oil pump just before 200k (The timing chain & water pump issues with these cars are well documented, and an OEM oil pump was $30 when I did it so I replaced that while I was in there)
-I rebuilt pretty much the entire suspension: front struts, control arms (ball joints are not replaceable, the entire lower control arm must be replaced), inner & outer tie rods, all 4 wheel bearings, rear springs, rear shocks, & rear toe links. All replaced to mitigate uneven tire wear. I would guess I replaced these between 180-~220k (not all done at once)
-My First Turbo (Front) went around 220k, the second (rear) went around 240k
-I had a leaking injector that was causing fuel dilution of the oil (found with an oil analysis) so i put a set of salvage yard injectors in around 240k (a set of new OEM injectors would be ~$1000 but I bought a set of injectors, fuel rails, and harness from a salvage car with ~100k on it for $130).
-It had a torque converter shudder so I had the transmission rebuilt at just under 250k, although the transmission shop noted that the transmission itself appeared in reasonable condition especially considering the milage so i probably could have just replaced the converter. This was the most expensive repair but this occurred during the time of ridiculous used car prices so it was cheaper to have the transmission rebuilt than it was to purchase another SHO with similar/slightly lower milage, and who knows the condition of its transmission. I will also note that the transmission shop said I could continue to drive it with the converter shudder and it shouldn't cause more damage, but I was being picky so I had them go ahead and go through it.
-The major thing that parked the car for a few months was significant rust at the point where the rear subframe mounts to the body, I ended up dropping the rear subframe and my uncle, who is a professional welder, welded in some plates to reinforce the 'frame rails' in the body where the subframe mounts (I could've welded them myself but I trust his welds better than mine). Don't know if rust is much of an issue where you are but it would be worth a check before buying IMO.
-I've had a few minor interior things: rear sunshade wouldn't stay down because the cam is worn and allows the cam to 'jump' over the end stop so I removed the sunshade, reverse camera goes out every now and then (typically after the trunk is opened and closed, so i suspect a broken wire in the trunk lid wire loom, but I haven't had a chance to track it down).

 

[yaycandy]

These will be pretty reliable cars. Just a bit of upkeep on them. Biggest thing will be the electronics through. They are buggy even with low miles. Now watch mine wont start as i leave from work soon lol

 

[ato137528]

i have currently have about 273k miles on my daily driver 2010 SHO. I would say it has been relatively reliable considering the milage on it, but It could be an outlier. Here are the maintenance/repair items I have done that I can think of off the top of my head:
-I did timing chains/water pump/oil pump just before 200k (The timing chain & water pump issues with these cars are well documented, and an OEM oil pump was $30 when I did it so I replaced that while I was in there)
-I rebuilt pretty much the entire suspension: front struts, control arms (ball joints are not replaceable, the entire lower control arm must be replaced), inner & outer tie rods, all 4 wheel bearings, rear springs, rear shocks, & rear toe links. All replaced to mitigate uneven tire wear. I would guess I replaced these between 180-~220k (not all done at once)
-My First Turbo (Front) went around 220k, the second (rear) went around 240k
-I had a leaking injector that was causing fuel dilution of the oil (found with an oil analysis) so i put a set of salvage yard injectors in around 240k (a set of new OEM injectors would be ~$1000 but I bought a set of injectors, fuel rails, and harness from a salvage car with ~100k on it for $130).
-It had a torque converter shudder so I had the transmission rebuilt at just under 250k, although the transmission shop noted that the transmission itself appeared in reasonable condition especially considering the milage so i probably could have just replaced the converter. This was the most expensive repair but this occurred during the time of ridiculous used car prices so it was cheaper to have the transmission rebuilt than it was to purchase another SHO with similar/slightly lower milage, and who knows the condition of its transmission. I will also note that the transmission shop said I could continue to drive it with the converter shudder and it shouldn't cause more damage, but I was being picky so I had them go ahead and go through it.
-The major thing that parked the car for a few months was significant rust at the point where the rear subframe mounts to the body, I ended up dropping the rear subframe and my uncle, who is a professional welder, welded in some plates to reinforce the 'frame rails' in the body where the subframe mounts (I could've welded them myself but I trust his welds better than mine). Don't know if rust is much of an issue where you are but it would be worth a check before buying IMO.
-I've had a few minor interior things: rear sunshade wouldn't stay down because the cam is worn and allows the cam to 'jump' over the end stop so I removed the sunshade, reverse camera goes out every now and then (typically after the trunk is opened and closed, so i suspect a broken wire in the trunk lid wire loom, but I haven't had a chance to track it down).

Thanks for the great reply. Kind of what I figured. The things I was hoping you wouldn't say. "Water pump". "Turbochargers". "Timing chain". I know regular maintenance and preemptive replacement of consumables is key. I just put 250k on a Fusion with the 3.0 Duratech. (Water pump was bolted to the back of the motor and a 30 minute change.) Gave it to a friend who is still driving it with no problems. Bought my 2013 SHO with 88k on it. Right at 100k now. I changed the read diff fluid, put a drain bolt in the PTU to swap out the burned sludge with some fresh stuff. Flushed the cooling system (scared to death of that water pump). Am about to change the plugs and do a transmission fluid change. Struts, brakes, control arms and everything else seems to be ok.