Hesitation under steady throttle

[Terrorizer]

I recently completed the upper and side 60k including plugs and wires and I have also cleaned out the IAC or whatever it is called and to my disappointment, the power cuts in and out under steady throttle, its especially noticeable at lower speeds like 15-20 mph or so. Anyone have any idea what possible problems it could be? It is also difficult to cold start, the first time I turn the key it just turns over but the second time it usually fires right up. I also have an issue with the fuel smell after driving it.

 

[Terrorizer]

Today I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner and no improvement. Any ideas guys?

 

[rubydist]

any codes????

check the tps also.

 

[msteiny]

O2 sensors?

 

[Terrorizer]

No codes, at least when I checked a few months ago, and I have done a lot of work since then, also no check engine lights either. I am going to check the codes though when I get a chance. Also, I don't know if this will help at all, but I am thinking of trying some fuel injector cleaner and changing the fuel filter just for good measure. I also found 2 unconnected connectors in the engine bay, they don't plug in together. I will post pics of them later.

 

[Terrorizer]

O2 sensors?

Haven't checked them, did not change them during the 60k because I ASSumed they would cause a check engine light, but like i said before I am going to check the codes again. SHO Times also suggested clearing the codes to solve this problem, anyone had luck with that before?

 

[frosho]

Did you change the plugs/wires?

 

[Terrorizer]

Did you change the plugs/wires?

Yeah, I did that along with the upper and side 60 k. I left out a few things like cam sensor and o2 sensors though.

 

[Terrorizer]

It is also difficult to cold start, the first time I turn the key it just turns over but the second time it usually fires right up. I also have an issue with the fuel smell after driving it.

 

[frosho]

First, check for codes. If you have any, post them and we'll go from there.

If you have no codes, I'd change the cam sensor (CID). The hard starts are a common symptom of a failing CID, and they've also been known to cause the car to run rough or misfire.

 

[TYSHO]

If you have an extra coil pack around, try swapping it out or clean the terminal contact areas in your current one.

Also, store brand spark plug wires are notorious for going out very quickly, they can come out of the box in bad shape or have a problem after your first trip to the grocery store.

 

[Terrorizer]

I just checked for codes, I got code 11 with the engine off test and the engine on test, which means system is ok. For the cylinder test I got a code 99 which means ISC needs to learn. Anyone know what that means? Whats strange is when I was driving it around my neighborhood the check engine light was on when I looked down but then it turned off a few seconds later.

 

[rubydist]

if the check engine light was on, then there will be a stored code. if there is no stored code after seeing a check engine light, then your pcm is suspect.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

What wire diagram did you use? That can throw things off.

Also make sure the big fat hose is connected in the back.

Check for vacuum leaks?

 

[SHOspazz92]

Did you put the plug wires on in the correct order?

-Sam

 

[Terrorizer]

if the check engine light was on, then there will be a stored code. if there is no stored code after seeing a check engine light, then your pcm is suspect.

There were some stored codes, the key on engine off test game me stored codes of 29 (vehicle speed sensor problem), and 41 (System lean, fuel control). I have since cleared the codes and am going to test them again tommarow.

 

[Terrorizer]

Did you put the plug wires on in the correct order?

-Sam

I double checked them before putting the manifold back on but I am going to check again to make sure tommarow. The problem was still there before I did the 60k, and I'm pretty sure the 60k hadn't been done before since my car has 100k on it and everything looked factory.

 

[Terrorizer]

What wire diagram did you use? That can throw things off.

Also make sure the big fat hose is connected in the back.

Check for vacuum leaks?

I used the wire diagram from SHO phoenix project. Its correct according to that. What big fat hose in the back are you referring to?

 

[hawkeye18]

Generally speaking, 80% of ignition problems (bucking/surging) are caused by plugs and wires, 10% by the DIS, and the last 10% are shared by the coil pack and the cam sensor. The cam sensor going bad will usually present other symptoms. The not wanting to start first time up is one of those symptoms.

 

[Terrorizer]

Generally speaking, 80% of ignition problems (bucking/surging) are caused by plugs and wires, 10% by the DIS, and the last 10% are shared by the coil pack and the cam sensor. The cam sensor going bad will usually present other symptoms. The not wanting to start first time up is one of those symptoms.

Just re-checked the codes and 29 came up again. Is there a way to test the cam sensor to see if its bad? The cam sensor is the one that bolts on right next to the end of the camshaft right?