Help with Getting rid of CE Light Regarding EGR

[SuperG]

Well, I removed the TB, cleaned the ports inside the intake, and replaced everything, but the CE light is still on...

I also disconnected the battery, but do I also need to leave the lights on to erase the memory?

In addition, the hex nut near the EGR valve was bound and determined to stay on...it's not left handed is it? I did not see an "L" Should I just man-handle the sucker?

Finally, I think I made a mistake. I wasn't paying attentio, since I was moving as fast as I could and noticed the TB was quite dirty...guess what I did? What can I expect?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

Gary, what exactly did you do to the throttle body? and which code did you get? one can mean clogged intake ports, where the other pretty much always points to a bad egr valve. to erase the memory run the codes as described by the link in my signature. when the codes are running pull the paper clip out suddenly. that will clear them.

clamp a crescent wrench or something on the egr nut and turn to your left. hope it helps. be careful, but it should come off with appropriate torqueing. just be sure the wrench has a firm grip on it. maybe some PB blaster is what the dr. ordered...good luck, keep us informed.
Bob

<small>[ June 02, 2003, 06:52 PM: Message edited by: BlackOnBlackATX ]</small>

 

[Slo-Sho]

The valves themselves rarely, if ever fail. It's most likely the DPFE sensor. It's about $50 at your local Autozone.

 

[bigpappy]

After 177,000 miles, I, as the second owner got the sole joy of removing the intake manifold to get at those 8mm hex nuts. Mine seemed to be welded on! Be careful of the sensor on top of the manifold! I broke mine trying to get the hex bolts loose. I used a regular 8mm allen wrench with a large crescent wrench for greater leverage.

I got rid of my 332, but got another code (IMRC) in its place.

Using a chilton's manual, it was an easy procedure. You may wish to have a supply of vacuum hoses on hand to replace the ones you have as necessary.

That's about all I can tell you. Good luck.

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

slosho:
The valves themselves rarely, if ever fail. It's most likely the DPFE sensor. It's about $50 at your local Autozone.

my EGR valve has failed on me. although i may be one of the unfortunate ones. and unfortunately the autozone by me charges $75 a piece ::shrugs:: what can you do i guess.

i was able to use a 1/4 inch ratchet on my bolts for the DFPE. craftsman has one thats really tiny. maybe some PB blaster is the way to go here. let us know what happens.

<small>[ June 02, 2003, 11:41 PM: Message edited by: BlackOnBlackATX ]</small>

 

[SuperG]

Thanks guys!

First, Bob, I cleaned that TB with Carb Cleaner...it looks great. I can only hope I didn't screw it up!

Second, the code was 332. It is the only code registering. Bob, you said to turn to my left. Just to clarify...I am facing the firewall, the hex nut is facing the firewall, so left would mean the nut is left-hand threaded, the opposite of a normal thread, right?

So my question then is from where do I spray cleaner? It seems to me that I need cleaner to run through the nostrils to the exit port (hex nut), right? It also appears that the main intake tunnel goes from the TB to the back of the engine (hex nut)...Or do I need to only be concerned with the tunnel from the nostrils to the hex nut? All I could see and feel were the 2 lower nostrils, which I could put a wire hanger through from one nostril to the other. How does the hex nut come into play?

<small>[ June 03, 2003, 11:12 AM: Message edited by: SuperG ]</small>

 

[projectSHO89]

SuperG & BoB,

Before you rip the EGR valve off, you might want to see this post about troubleshooting the 332 code:

http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=001286#000004

Steve

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

projectSHO89:
SuperG & BoB,

Before you rip the EGR valve off, you might want to see this post about troubleshooting the 332 code:

http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=001286#000004

Steve

Steve, when i was having the problem last summer when i bought the car, i ended up taking the intake to ford to be decarboned because my nostrils were clogged bad. after i did that i still had to replace the valve because mine was shot.

Gary, dont worry about using carb cleaner. ive been using it on the TB for a while now with no adverse effects. as for the nut under the EGR valve, its a normal nut, if you were on your back looking up at where it screws into on the bottom of the valve it would be righty tighty, lefty loosey. so standing at the drivers fender, clamp a wrench on there and rotate it towards *your* left. (just to be triple sure, you are talking about the nut that connects the exhaust feed to the valve, not the valve to the intake right? because im talking about the exhaust feed tube nut)

there are 4 nostrils. there was a post last week with a pic of the four of them. shine a bright light in there and clean the *bottom* two out. use carb cleaner, a coat hanger, whatever you need to do to get the job done. good luck and i hope this helps a little.

 

[SuperG]

Thanks again, guys. Steve, I found those instructions yesterday and printed them...so I will perform those procedures today.

Bob, according to your explanation, I may be looking at the wrong hex head (I cannot rememeber the size of alan wrench I was using) so I will double check...the one I am looking at is immediately adjacent to the EGR valve, toward the passenger side of the EGR valve...

 

[Markus]

SuperG:
Thanks again, guys. Steve, I found those instructions yesterday and printed them...so I will perform those procedures today.

Bob, according to your explanation, I may be looking at the wrong hex head (I cannot rememeber the size of alan wrench I was using) so I will double check...the one I am looking at is immediately adjacent to the EGR valve, toward the passenger side of the EGR valve...

There are actually two hexhead plugs. One is close to where the EGR valve mounts and one is on the bottom of the intake near where the TB mounts. These plugs are a bugger to remove. I used an 8mm hex socket and a long breaker bar. You'll need something like long pipe cleaners to remove the buildup from the inside of the mainfolds EGR tubes.

As far as using carb cleaner on the TB: some TBs have a sticker that says "do not clean". This is because the TB has an anti-sludge coating that carb cleaner will remove. If yours is one of these, you'll probably find you have to clean the TB as it sludges up. I cleaned my TB by removing it from the car and washing it with diluted dish detergent. There are small holes within the TB that direct PCV gasses into the intake. My TB was so dirty that I didn't know the holes were there until I cleaned the TB. I think the only way to thoroughly clean the TB is to remove it from the manifold. The gasket is usually reusable.

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

Markus:
As far as using carb cleaner on the TB some TBs have a sticker that says "do not clean". This is because the TB has an anti-sludge coating that carb cleaner will remove. If yours is one of these, you'll probably find you have to clean the TB as it sludges up. I cleaned my TB by removing it from the car and washing it with diluted dish detergent. There are small holes within the TB that direct PCV gasses into the intake. My TB was so dirty that I didn't know the holes were there until I cleaned the TB. I think the only way to thoroughly clean the TB is to remove it from the manifold. The gasket is usually reusable. [/QB]

mine had the "anti-sludge" coating. but it didnt do a very good job wink the coating didnt seem to strip off either when i used the degreaser on it, but i would imagine if you used berrymans it would take it right off.