Help trying to pick out a good price/performance bypass/BOV

[adidas_kn]

Okay so my fingers are starting to hurt from typing and clicking on internet searches for the right Diverter/BOV for my turbo project. The almost unanimous verdict on BOV's with our MAF equipped cars is to bypass the compressed air back in to the turbo's inlet. Still not sure whay this is good but that was the experts opinons. I think it will blow most of it right back out of the MAF/Airfilter. And still make a BOV noise. My other turbo car that uses a Diverter valve does this.

Anyways I found the following and need to know if they can hold 20-25 psi and capable of running with my setup(GT-K 650, FMIC, 90mm MAF, 3.2L 8.5:1, Etc.......).

Greddy Type R with stiff spring.(47mm) Roughly $190-$210
Turbonetics Raptor $200-$250
Turbonetics Godzilla $300+

Any more Ideas? Opinions on these?

 

[Power Surge]

If you plan to put your MAF on the inlet side of the turbo, then you need a bypass valve that recirculates the bypassed air back into the airstream. This is because the MAF has already registered that air and added fuel to compensate for it. If you don't put that air back into the airstream, the car will run like crap.

If you put your MAF in the turbo ducting as a blow-through setup, and then put the bypass/blowoff between the turbo and the MAF (i.e. before the MAF), then you can use a blowoff and vent to atmosphere because the MAF hasn't read that air yet.

Make sure get the right valve for what you need. A bypass and a blowoff DO the same thing, by a blowoff valve won't have a provision to attach a hose if you need to bypass the air.

 

[twr]

If you plan to put your MAF on the inlet side of the turbo, then you need a bypass valve that recirculates the bypassed air back into the airstream. This is because the MAF has already registered that air and added fuel to compensate for it. If you don't put that air back into the airstream, the car will run like crap.

If you put your MAF in the turbo ducting as a blow-through setup, and then put the bypass/blowoff between the turbo and the MAF (i.e. before the MAF), then you can use a blowoff and vent to atmosphere because the MAF hasn't read that air yet.

Make sure get the right valve for what you need. A bypass and a blowoff DO the same thing, by a blowoff valve won't have a provision to attach a hose if you need to bypass the air.

Exactly right. I had this setup on the S/C car when I had the MAF pre-blower. Unfortunatly I couldn't recirculate the air quick enough with the bypass valve I had and the ecu was seeing air flow at closed throttle high rpm. This created an ultra rich condition.

 

[sho_sc]

Okay so my fingers are starting to hurt from typing and clicking on internet searches for the right Diverter/BOV for my turbo project. The almost unanimous verdict on BOV's with our MAF equipped cars is to bypass the compressed air back in to the turbo's inlet. Still not sure whay this is good but that was the experts opinons. I think it will blow most of it right back out of the MAF/Airfilter. And still make a BOV noise. My other turbo car that uses a Diverter valve does this.

Anyways I found the following and need to know if they can hold 20-25 psi and capable of running with my setup(GT-K 650, FMIC, 90mm MAF, 3.2L 8.5:1, Etc.......).

Greddy Type R with stiff spring.(47mm) Roughly $190-$210
Turbonetics Raptor $200-$250
Turbonetics Godzilla $300+

Any more Ideas? Opinions on these?

I'm using the Greddy Type R with a S/C (T-trim) blow-through and when the boost is more than 14-15 psi, it still is undersized. I get a pressurized charge tube (rich condition) at anything above 6K RPM. However, it sure does bet the Greddy Type RS ... it wasn't even drivable on the street.

 

[adidas_kn]

Okay so throw down the green backs for a Godzilla BOV/Bypass valve. I guess too big is better then too small.

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

Exactly right. I had this setup on the S/C car when I had the MAF pre-blower. Unfortunatly I could recirculate the air quick enough with the bypass valve I had and the ecu was seeing air flow at closed throttle high rpm. This created an ultra rich condition.

its diffrent for blower cars..... i have my maf before the turbo and i vent my bov.... the car runs fine like that... only problems i have venting are if lets say im behind a couple car at a red light.... it turns green everyone starts too go.. so i start to goo and get into boost but a sec later everyone hits there brakes... the bov vents boost at a low rpm and the car sometimes stalls... but for normal driveing it works fine..

 

[Power Surge]

its diffrent for blower cars..... i have my maf before the turbo and i vent my bov.... the car runs fine like that... only problems i have venting are if lets say im behind a couple car at a red light.... it turns green everyone starts too go.. so i start to goo and get into boost but a sec later everyone hits there brakes... the bov vents boost at a low rpm and the car sometimes stalls... but for normal driveing it works fine..

Why don't you just do it the right way?

 

[adidas_kn]

Why don't you just do it the right way?

Thats exactly what I'm doing. Not cheaping on anything. Hence why I ask soo many dang questions.:type:

 

[Power Surge]

Thats exactly what I'm doing. Not cheaping on anything. Hence why I ask soo many dang questions.:type:

I know YOU are doing it the right way .

BTW, I would not spend a nickle on anything made by Turbonetics.

 

[Bringetto]

There is nothing wrong with asking questions, as long as you listen to the answer.

just out of curiosity, where are you putting your turbo? manifold? over the transmission, like toolman's setup? Just wanted to know

 

[adidas_kn]

Going with an exact replica of Toolmans setup but using a different turbo and a recirc valve setup.

 

[Bringetto]

so you want to do a draw through setup?

is that what you mean by "recirc valve setup"?

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

Why don't you just do it the right way?

because THAT IS THE RIGHT WAY! its all just personal choice... they both work they are both the right way...

 

[Power Surge]

because THAT IS THE RIGHT WAY! its all just personal choice... they both work they are both the right way...

No, it's not. But you do it how you like. You obviously do your own thing regardless of what people tell you.

 

[twr]

I'm planning on moving the MAF back to pre blower after I get the new motor built and use a remote throttle body between it and the blower. Hopefully that will eliminate the rich condition under part/closed throttle. The car was easier to tune and easier to drive with it that way. Oh, and it should eliminate the need for a BOV or bypass valve

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

No, it's not. But you do it how you like. You obviously do your own thing regardless of what people tell you.

im doing this by the book.... if you have the maf before the turbo and vent.... u vent mettered air inbetween shifts this also hepls to cool down the pistons... this IS the right way.... im not here to fight over stupid **** i know my stuff been doing this my whole life... if you want hot pistons and melted parts fine you do it your way.. i didnt goto school for this for Nothing!

 

[Power Surge]

im doing this by the book.... if you have the maf before the turbo and vent.... u vent mettered air inbetween shifts this also hepls to cool down the pistons... this IS the right way.... im not here to fight over stupid **** i know my stuff been doing this my whole life... if you want hot pistons and melted parts fine you do it your way.. i didnt goto school for this for Nothing!

Then do us a favor... keep your schooling and your knowledge to yourself. If you want to goober up your own backyard project go ahead, but please don't don't give advice to people who want to learn the right way to do things.

 

[Bringetto]

:corn:

both ways work, and there are alot of different methods for turbo vehicles.

single, twin, sequential, remote mount, ect. and thats just where and how the turbo is mounted.

to each his own

ill tip my hat to TT sho for speed of completion but i frown on lack for detail. And its still cool either way, he is having fun with his car and doing what he likes

 

[twr]

Sorry, but I have to agree, venting metered air to atmosphere is not the correct way to do it. If the car is tuned properly, there will be no issue of melting pistons. I seem to recall that when it goes pig rich like that the computer quits learning KAM values and the extra fuel will destory the catalytic converters, neither of which is a good thing.

I've had the blower installed on my car for 2 years with 10 psi of boost and a pretty good tune. With over 15k hard driven miles, it still running like a top.

 

[Bringetto]

yes, your right, blowing metered air isnt good, might as well have a massive vacuum leak.

In my future plans of a turbo setup the bov on the pressure side before the maf .