vortex2450
Buying Parts...
Hey,
I just installed Ingalls adjustable strut mounts on my 92' MTX.
Before I installed the mounts the only front end noise was the sound of the rubber strut boots moving. No clunks or pops of any sort.
Now I have a variety of lovely sounding "pops". I want to get this car aligned ASAP but I'm concerned these "pops" could be the result of an issue that would only put my car out of alignment in a short time.
Here's video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZkiwIa8I-8
These are mostly present when turning and more evident at slower speeds. When I turn either way (but more so to the right) I can hear "pops" and feel them in the car but not in the wheel. They aren't major "clunks" per say but rather annoying "pops" and through the motion of turning the wheel from full left to full right there is usually about 8-10 small "pop" sounds.
Recently replaced items include:
-Steering rack w/ tie rods.
-Swaybar bushings
-Endlinks
-Strut mounts w/ strut bearings.
-Pass side LCA
When I installed the mounts I followed the instructions to the letter. In order of appearance from the beginning of the strut rod the parts where:
-Lower urethane bushing
-Bottom Camber plate
-Strut mount
-Upper Camber plate
-upper urethane bushing
-Strut rod nut
The instructions mentioned a "spacer" for 92' and newer Taurii and said it was included but I had no such thing in either package so no "spacer" was installed.
I didn't tighten the strut rod nuts until they were on the car and once tightened there is about 1-9/16" worth of thread exposed on each rod. I rotated each adjustment plate into the middle with the rod towards the back of the car and then tightened the mount down using the new nuts/lock-washers/washers to about 30 lb ft.
My initial thoughts are both ball joints are bad as the new one wasn't but $25 and the boots was torn from the metal plate that is on the back side of the rotor. But I cannot get any play from the wheels when they are up in the air.
There was also a lot of weight ( aprox. 250lbs) put onto the strut control arm when I used a 2x4" to leverage the ball joint as low as possible to put the knuckle back on. Maybe I broke the mounts on the subframe? I looked at the receivers and they didn't budge though.
Another thought is that I realigned the sub frame and maybe I didn't TQ the bolts back in enough? How much does it take? I tightened them down with a 1/2" rachet and a 2ft breaker bar until I couldn't turn them anymore with out bracing my feet on something which is a considerable amount of torque.
Lastly, searching around I saw mention of the steering rack being loose and causing such an issue with out feeling it in the wheel. . I never messed with the rack when doing the mounts but I'm not ruling it out.
Any one else have some input?
Thanks,
Josh
I just installed Ingalls adjustable strut mounts on my 92' MTX.
Before I installed the mounts the only front end noise was the sound of the rubber strut boots moving. No clunks or pops of any sort.
Now I have a variety of lovely sounding "pops". I want to get this car aligned ASAP but I'm concerned these "pops" could be the result of an issue that would only put my car out of alignment in a short time.
Here's video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZkiwIa8I-8
These are mostly present when turning and more evident at slower speeds. When I turn either way (but more so to the right) I can hear "pops" and feel them in the car but not in the wheel. They aren't major "clunks" per say but rather annoying "pops" and through the motion of turning the wheel from full left to full right there is usually about 8-10 small "pop" sounds.
Recently replaced items include:
-Steering rack w/ tie rods.
-Swaybar bushings
-Endlinks
-Strut mounts w/ strut bearings.
-Pass side LCA
When I installed the mounts I followed the instructions to the letter. In order of appearance from the beginning of the strut rod the parts where:
-Lower urethane bushing
-Bottom Camber plate
-Strut mount
-Upper Camber plate
-upper urethane bushing
-Strut rod nut
The instructions mentioned a "spacer" for 92' and newer Taurii and said it was included but I had no such thing in either package so no "spacer" was installed.
I didn't tighten the strut rod nuts until they were on the car and once tightened there is about 1-9/16" worth of thread exposed on each rod. I rotated each adjustment plate into the middle with the rod towards the back of the car and then tightened the mount down using the new nuts/lock-washers/washers to about 30 lb ft.
My initial thoughts are both ball joints are bad as the new one wasn't but $25 and the boots was torn from the metal plate that is on the back side of the rotor. But I cannot get any play from the wheels when they are up in the air.
There was also a lot of weight ( aprox. 250lbs) put onto the strut control arm when I used a 2x4" to leverage the ball joint as low as possible to put the knuckle back on. Maybe I broke the mounts on the subframe? I looked at the receivers and they didn't budge though.
Another thought is that I realigned the sub frame and maybe I didn't TQ the bolts back in enough? How much does it take? I tightened them down with a 1/2" rachet and a 2ft breaker bar until I couldn't turn them anymore with out bracing my feet on something which is a considerable amount of torque.
Lastly, searching around I saw mention of the steering rack being loose and causing such an issue with out feeling it in the wheel. . I never messed with the rack when doing the mounts but I'm not ruling it out.
Any one else have some input?
Thanks,
Josh
Last edited: