HELP...Dead SHO

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GoofSHO

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Here are the facts: Ran fine in the morning going to work. Get in to go home...runs like doggy doo!..

Check codes: KOEO- No codes
Running test:
13-RPM out of spec during normal idle oper.
21-Coolant tep. sensor
26-MAF
33-EGR
42-EGO
52-Pwr Str sw- Didn't turn whl duing test
74-Brk on/off-Did'nt hit brk during test
77-op. error during dynamic response portion of engine run self-test

It runs like the timing is backed off ALOT..
Could this be the Timing Belt has "slipped"...That is my therory right now...
Other opinions welcomed...PLEASE

Thanx,

Brian


BTW, It's a '90 If that matters
 

Bizzy

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Did you get gasoline on your way in to work?
 

GoofSHO

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No....And BTW..I changed out the MAF...No change...and, no, it's not the SHO in my sig.


B
 

SonicRiot

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If the timing belt has slipped, it means that it is stretched or the teeth are no good. It will need replacement, regardless.

To determine if it's a mechanical issue, do a compression test. If the holes give you significantly less than spec readings in most every hole, your timing has most likely jumped.

You may also consider some sort of detonation. If the car senses vibrations (most likely caused by detonation) in the engine, it will yank timing. However, the sensor does not know where the vibration is coming from. Somebody rapping on the exhaust manifold with a wrench can cause the timing to retard. So the vibration can come from anywhere...

If you have excessive carbon buildup, it will cause it to be proen to detonation.

Give more info. Mileage, services, more symptoms while driving.

BTW, nice Plus. Wish mine looked that good.
 

AutoSHO

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The computer can only pull 8 degrees of timing, so even if you have a bad knock sensor the car will run fine, and smooth - It will just lack power.

I would check compression and fuel pressure. Also, check your grounds, make sure the battery terminals are clean, etc.
 

SonicRiot

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Oh, it's smooth... purrs at idle and pulls nicely to 100 MPH like a champ at half-throttle. For the hard sprints, she lacks go juice to keep the butt dyno happy and the imports at bay.

I know for a fact the grounds are poor. I have had several electrical issues due to corrosion including a break in the ignition to solenoid control wire in the wiring harness, flickering headlights, stumbling after startup, no start, and flickering HVAC display.

All have been fixed (for now!), minus the HVAC flickering. I'm becoming pretty quick with electrical diagnosis because I "practice" so often on my own vehicle.


But I'll post in another section for that problem.

I'm just trying to figure out if my SHO is just a tad slower than another due to age and maintentance or if my car is a dog of an SHO and needs attention.
 

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