DK,
If you have not yet removed the timing belt; 1. if you decide that you need to do that, first set the engine up in the timing position, that is line up the cams and the crankshaft at TDC,
2. if the pulley is not in your way why pull it, loosen the belt tensioner and remove the belt from the cam sprockets. It is important that the crankshaft and cams be in the proper position AND not be moved during the pump replacement,
3. the green spots in the picture are definetly signs of a leak, make sure the mating surfaces are clean and not scrached or gouged by the gasket scraper or such. I like to use a "widget" razer scraper on soft metals like aluminum, and finish with a Three M scuff pad (it is a nylon like sanding pad).
4. Permatex "Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp Adhesive Sealant" helps to hold the gasket in place AND helps seal. Spray both sides of the gaskets. Spray them on a piece of wax paper, one side at a time, and let them get tacky before spraying the other side. Auto Zone should have it (any auto parts store). Do not use silicone sealers between machine fit surfaces.
5. Use a little spit to lubricate the "O" rings to help them slide into place. A little spit on the rubber helps them with the insertion. (OK who snickered?)
Carefully examine the water pump for signs of leaks. If your leak is between the mating surfaces, was a gasket kinked or torn, was there a nick in one of the surfaces, or did you not replace all of the seals and an old seal failed after the new pump was installed??
6. After the pump is removed thread the bolts into the holes by hand. Make sure the threads feel OK. Are there any signs of stripped threads, such as metal chips on the threads, or in or around the holes. (Did the leak occur because of a loose bolt?)
7. When installing the pump you can tie the gasket in place using thin thread through the bolt holes. Get all of the bolts started, but leave them loose enough to see all around the gasket surface.
Is the gasket where it shoud be? If yes, cut and remove the thread and run the bolts down until they bottom. Tighten the bolts and torque them to specification.
Start your torque in the middle and work your way out to the edges. For example, top middle, bottom middle, top one over to the right of middle, bottom one over to the left of middle, top left of middle, bottom right of middle, etc, Work your way out until all the bolts are torqued to spec.
Check to see if your pump has a specific torque pattern. If not, do it the way I suggested. That way you do not warp the pump when you torque it down. Check your reference source to see if any of the bolts require a sealent on the threads.
I do not remember if the SHO has such a requirement, but I do know that the other 3 liter V-6 does have one or two bolts that require sealant. Anybody?
Take your time, be patient and deliberate. If anything else comes to mind I'll throw it out to you. Hope this helps, rangerj
)How so? The source of the leak is from above the oil pan (at least I think it is)99% sure. 
