Help a NEWB

[Wurf]

Hello SHOforum members.
Looking to have some opinions and advice dropped on me about the 4gen SHO.

I'm currently in the position to start looking at a replacement for my current car, a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3. I want a performance sedan with AWD and the SHO is pretty appealing to me. I have also considered the G37 but otherwise not much else. I would like to have something that runs at least a 14 and will go well in the snow.
My brother drives a 2012 SEL with FWD and the 3.6 and really likes it. He got it on my recommendation BTW as I'm the family car guy. I have had performance cars in the past including multiple Mustangs and I built a Factory Five Roadster with a 408 stroker which I also assembled myself - motor, heads and all. 750 double pumper and a Victor Jr on it etc. I understand power adders, boost, MAF VS SD and all that and have been a gear head for some time.

Mostly want I'm trying to figure out is what year offers the best bang for the buck. I have stumbled upon information here about upgrades and improvements Ford has done to this car over the years and it looks like there are some changes or improvements to the brakes, intercooler and possibly some other things I'm not aware yet.

Would it make the most sense to shop a used SHO and throw some aftermarket parts on it like brakes and the LMS stage 4 kit, or should I instead consider a 2014 and just leave it stock for awhile first? Is there any reason to avoid certain years and if so, can the issues with those years be addressed easily and affordably?

Thanks for any comments or direction you guys can provide.

 

[PokerMunkee]

What's your budget?

I got my '13 (8 months in service0 with 5500 miles for $30.800 back in June. Best $30K that with tons of warranty and low miles I could find.

I looked at the Charger R/T AWD, G37xS, and TL SH-AWD. The SHO won on exclusivity, options, and performance. Just a tune will get you in the high 12's in the right conditions. I also wanted FI with living at high altitude.

The changes for 2013+ are extensive, so get that if your budget allows.

 

[TheDailySHO]

In my opinion you cant go wrong with a 2013+ with the performance package. You can pick one up with a few miles on it so you don't take the depreciation hit as bad and you still get a great 'new' car. Performance pack is worth it for final drive ratio alone (quicker take off) in my opinion but you get a lot of stuff for $2000.

SHO Performance Package offers package-specific tuning to the suspension - including unique dampers and springs - that goes above and beyond the standard SHO. Other upgrades are even stronger brake pads and track-tuned calipers, a re-calibrated steering system, the ability to completely disable stability control, a 3.16 final drive ratio for improved acceleration, extreme-duty cooling, 20-inch machined and painted wheels and 245/YR20 performance summer tires.

I have a second set of rims and winter tires as I live in Minnesota and the summer only tires are not recommended for temps below 40.

You'll really like this car. I also have had three mustangs of various years and still own a 07 tuned up GT with a lot of extras. The Stang has sat more this summer after picking up the SHO in July because it's that fun to drive. Take the AdvanceTrac system completely off, put it in sport mode, and you'll have a hard time loosing the smile.

 

[WojoMojo]

If you're planning on modding a SHO the non-pp is actually faster. Stock for stock the PP will win. But after a few mods the non-pp actually does better. That being said, you don't get all of the other goodies with the PP package, so it's really not a big deal if you can find a PP for a good deal. If not I wouldn't worry if you do get a non-pp. I have a non-pp with a few bolt ons and a tune and it's silly fast for a 4 door taurus. I'll chirp tires in 2nd gear and that's pretty dang fun. If you get a 2010-2012 the pp package isn't that great of an upgrade, but for the 13+ it's definitely something to look into.

 

[UtesFanRy]

In my opinion you cant go wrong with a 2013+ with the performance package. You can pick one up with a few miles on it so you don't take the depreciation hit as bad and you still get a great 'new' car. Performance pack is worth it for final drive ratio alone (quicker take off) in my opinion but you get a lot of stuff for $2000.

SHO Performance Package offers package-specific tuning to the suspension - including unique dampers and springs - that goes above and beyond the standard SHO. Other upgrades are even stronger brake pads and track-tuned calipers, a re-calibrated steering system, the ability to completely disable stability control, a 3.16 final drive ratio for improved acceleration, extreme-duty cooling, 20-inch machined and painted wheels and 245/YR20 performance summer tires.

I have a second set of rims and winter tires as I live in Minnesota and the summer only tires are not recommended for temps below 40.

You'll really like this car. I also have had three mustangs of various years and still own a 07 tuned up GT with a lot of extras. The Stang has sat more this summer after picking up the SHO in July because it's that fun to drive. Take the AdvanceTrac system completely off, put it in sport mode, and you'll have a hard time loosing the smile.

^^THIS^^

I purchased a new '14PP a couple of months ago and have been VERY happy with it.

I came from a 2007 Mazdaspeed3 as well.

 

[Livernois Motorsports]

Hello SHOforum members.
Looking to have some opinions and advice dropped on me about the 4gen SHO.

I'm currently in the position to start looking at a replacement for my current car, a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3. I want a performance sedan with AWD and the SHO is pretty appealing to me. I have also considered the G37 but otherwise not much else. I would like to have something that runs at least a 14 and will go well in the snow.
My brother drives a 2012 SEL with FWD and the 3.6 and really likes it. He got it on my recommendation BTW as I'm the family car guy. I have had performance cars in the past including multiple Mustangs and I built a Factory Five Roadster with a 408 stroker which I also assembled myself - motor, heads and all. 750 double pumper and a Victor Jr on it etc. I understand power adders, boost, MAF VS SD and all that and have been a gear head for some time.

Mostly want I'm trying to figure out is what year offers the best bang for the buck. I have stumbled upon information here about upgrades and improvements Ford has done to this car over the years and it looks like there are some changes or improvements to the brakes, intercooler and possibly some other things I'm not aware yet.

Would it make the most sense to shop a used SHO and throw some aftermarket parts on it like brakes and the LMS stage 4 kit, or should I instead consider a 2014 and just leave it stock for awhile first? Is there any reason to avoid certain years and if so, can the issues with those years be addressed easily and affordably?

Thanks for any comments or direction you guys can provide.

Lucky for you, you cannot go wrong with either a CPO SHO or a new 2014 or 2015 MY. Thanks for the consideration on the modification front! But no matter which one you choose we can SHO you the light! We have been tuning the 2015 MY vehicles for a few months already!

 

[UtesFanRy]

If you're planning on modding a SHO the non-pp is actually faster. Stock for stock the PP will win. But after a few mods the non-pp actually does better. That being said, you don't get all of the other goodies with the PP package, so it's really not a big deal if you can find a PP for a good deal. If not I wouldn't worry if you do get a non-pp. I have a non-pp with a few bolt ons and a tune and it's silly fast for a 4 door taurus. I'll chirp tires in 2nd gear and that's pretty dang fun. If you get a 2010-2012 the pp package isn't that great of an upgrade, but for the 13+ it's definitely something to look into.

Question - What makes a non PP faster than a PP (talking '13+ models here)when modded/tuned, etc? I have not read this before... Logic tells me that a shorter drive ratio will always be faster, but limited at some point top end. It makes sense to me that with a certain amount of extra HP the difference of a shorter final ratio would be negligible...

Certainly not trying to start something, just curious!!

Thanks!

 

[Wurf]

^^THIS^^

I purchased a new '14PP a couple of months ago and have been VERY happy with it.

I came from a 2007 Mazdaspeed3 as well.

That's funny....I still really like this car, but I'm looking forward to being done with ridiculous torque steer and having room for my kids in the back seats. They are only 9 but whoever sits behind me is cramped for leg room. I'm 6'2" and while there's enough room, it's a bit small for me.

 

[Wurf]

Lucky for you, you cannot go wrong with either a CPO SHO or a new 2014 or 2015 MY. Thanks for the consideration on the modification front! But no matter which one you choose we can SHO you the light! We have been tuning the 2015 MY vehicles for a few months already!

I've been on Ford auto performance forums for years and you guys are pretty widely known. Don't think I would go any other route if I were going to start modding this car once I owned one.

Thanks to all for replies so far.
The PP with the lower drive ratio makes sense to me. I have no idea how many used 2013 SHO with PP are out there though. Really am thinking a less punishing ride than my MS3 would be nice but I can accept the firmer suspension of the PP as a trade off for the lower ratio, assuming I can find one.

Time to start looking!

Thanks Guys

 

[Livernois Motorsports]

I've been on Ford auto performance forums for years and you guys are pretty widely known. Don't think I would go any other route if I were going to start modding this car once I owned one.

Thanks to all for replies so far.
The PP with the lower drive ratio makes sense to me. I have no idea how many used 2013 SHO with PP are out there though. Really am thinking a less punishing ride than my MS3 would be nice but I can accept the firmer suspension of the PP as a trade off for the lower ratio, assuming I can find one.

Time to start looking!

Thanks Guys

Well we greatly appreciate that compliment! :woo-hoo:

 

[bpd1151]

The platform's been pretty consistent and stout since it's re-introduction back in 2010.

It sounds like you've done some research already, which is great.

If you roll with a 13+, you'll for sure want to pick up the PP optioned SHO, as those have all the extra coolers (oil, trans, PTU) and is essentially "track ready" right out of the gate.

'10-'12 model years, the differences between the two pkg's is nominal and as others have pointed out, and LMS will also attest to, the Non-PP for those model years is actually faster than the PP optioned cars.

Like with any other automobile mfg'er, the SHO isn't void of it's quirks here and there, but like I said in my opening statement, for the most part, impressively solid.

Suffice to say, I'd say that you'll come to enjoy all the features of the SHO, just like the rest of us have.

From the gadgets and gizmos, to the creature comforts, luxury, and rounding it all out with the performance aspects..... truly are great cars given the other options out there that it competes with. Foreign or Domestic.

Good luck in w/e you end up choosing!

 

[RealityCheck]

Question - What makes a non PP faster than a PP (talking '13+ models here)when modded/tuned, etc? I have not read this before... Logic tells me that a shorter drive ratio will always be faster, but limited at some point top end. It makes sense to me that with a certain amount of extra HP the difference of a shorter final ratio would be negligible...

Certainly not trying to start something, just curious!!

Thanks!

The higher numerical gear ratio may result in an extra shift before the end of the quarter mile, much like 5-speed 2009+ WRXs were quicker than the more powerful 6-speed STi. Or, maybe the gearing puts the car at a less optimal point in the torque curve as it goes through the traps. Other than the drag strip, where a discrete point time trumps everything, the PP cars are noticeably quicker in the real world. They accelerate better out of the hole and there's less gap between gears.

Realistically though, I think its more car-to-car variation and track conditions than anything. I certainly haven't seen anything indicating that non-PP SHOs are consistently quicker than PP cars. There's too many variables to draw a definitive conclusion. Perhaps the PP car's gearing makes wheel spin more likely and unskilled drivers aren't able to adjust for it? Who knows. All I know is that the PP cars feel much more energetic in everyday use.

In any case, all the other stuff that comes with the PP makes it a no-brainer for serious drivers. However, for folks who drive around sedately most of the time, but occasionally want a big burst of straight line power, the non-PP SHO is fine. I'm pretty particular about handling and braking and found the PP car much more entertaining.