Header panel replacement headlight polish and opening...

[tery]

So, this will take a few more days, but look at one someone had pieced together...I'll have to re-do some bolts cause too rusty for even PB, but it all should come out fine when all is said and done.
btw, I tried the system of using progressive grits on headlight lens...and it really does work terrifically. So far I finished one fish tank..I think it is called...I did one side of the head, but started with 2000...So when I saw it finished I decided to start with 1000. That did the job to get out the pits and such so that 2000 on up to 12000, gave a really smooth and clear finish.



It was very tedious to get apart the lens, but I have to share with you that I found a great tool for that job, It is call... isesame...it is used for opening I pads and phones and such and worked really well to get the lens separated from the frame, after some serious "drawing" with sharp carpet knife on the clearly glued parts.



Here's what someone has cobbled together with zip ties and duct tape...

 

[SHOdded]

Nice work, Terry! Will have to look into that iSesame thingamajiggy.

 

[mrecoolgar]

My 1st SHO had a broken header panel.
Not that bad thou.
I have some here if you need.

 

[rubydist]

I'm pretty sure i still have a good header panel in my collection of for-sale parts too.


I did notice that your dog wasn't as impressed with the polished fishtank as we all were...

 

[kevinspann]

I had a hard time getting the old yellow glue out of my fishtank lense.

 

[tery]

I opened up the second headlight in about 20 minutes as opposed to an hour with that iSesame, it is a great tool for the job, I couldn't find any truly mirror paint so I used a mirrired piece of tagboard just on the bottom of the headlight frame where the morror was corroded off. I thought about the possible heat issue, but I'm rarely going to drive it at night. What are your thoughts on the possibility of it actually lighting up inside there>> It might look pretty badass...having flames shooting out of the headlight flying down the highway at night...well...for a minute anyway...In all seriousness though, how hot do you think the inside of the headlight gets in say five minutes...25 minutes... I sealed with ATV so it'd be pretty easy to open it back up if it's really dangerous...thoughts??? Here's a couple pics.
THanks so much for the header panel offers. I have one I bought at the jy a month ago and it has just been waiting for the weather to break. I also have a started for Ginger and got a slave compressor to take care of the belt problem . I think I'm going to put those parts on before I put the front back together.







I think I also will need to replace one of the tranny cooler feed lines. The guy had it folded up on itself and now there is a crease that'll leak soon if it doesn't already. And, excuse my don't know, but what is the little cooler that is bolted uo under there that is about 6x10 inches...???? It's in front of the radiator and behind the ac evaporator I think I remember.

 

[rubydist]

it gets pretty toasty inside the housing - the bulb is 55/60W and the enclosure is small, so it doesn't take long for it to get hot.

the trans cooler line can be repaired by simply sawing out the bad section, and putting in a piece of fuel-rated hose that can handle at least 50psi, which you should be able to find at any parts store. I would double hose-clamp it on each end over the tube and move on. the only trick is to make sure you suck all the metal shavings out of the line so you don't screw up the transmission with the metal shavings from when you sawed the line. btw, its the trans fluid cooler.

 

[tery]

Thank you Fred, ...uh...I shoulda thought of that...great idea, I've got four cooler items in the fron. The radiator of course, the ac evaporator I think its called, then a long horizontal maybe 2 ft across by 6 inches high, looks like a trans cooler cause the lines from it go into the side of the radiator, and it is sitting in front of the ac at the bottom, but then behind the evaporator there is the other little almost square cooler of some kind with two hoses connected (in/out) , it started raining so I didn't follow the lines to see where they went. I'm confused about what it is..
Anyway, thanks for the great idea with the hose.
T
in the little vid about the starter, you can see the thing I'm talking about right at the end of the vid in the right corner

 

[TimboSHO]

the trans cooler line can be repaired by simply sawing out the bad section, and putting in a piece of fuel-rated hose that can handle at least 50psi, which you should be able to find at any parts store. I would double hose-clamp it on each end over the tube and move on. the only trick is to make sure you suck all the metal shavings out of the line so you don't screw up the transmission with the metal shavings from when you sawed the line. btw, its the trans fluid cooler.

If you cut a section of hard line out, you really need to partially flare the line before you put the rubber hose on, otherwise it will always leak. I just use the double flare tool, and do half of the first flare, just enough that the hose won't slide off easily (you still have to use a hose clamp as well).

I've got four cooler items in the fron. The radiator of course, the ac evaporator I think its called, then a long horizontal maybe 2 ft across by 6 inches high, looks like a trans cooler cause the lines from it go into the side of the radiator, and it is sitting in front of the ac at the bottom, but then behind the evaporator there is the other little almost square cooler of some kind with two hoses connected (in/out) , it started raining so I didn't follow the lines to see where they went. I'm confused about what it is..

There is a power steeing cooler as well. I think it's different on the ATX, so I can't tell you for sure which is which. (the MTX power steering cooler is attached to the subframe on the driver's front and the in/out lines are on top).

 

[rubydist]

the ps cooler is essentially the same between mtx and atx. it is the smaller, more square-looking one.

it is a good idea to put some flare or bulge on the end of the tube where you put the hose, but I have successfully done it without. that is why I suggested double clamps, because I don't have a brakeline flare tool.

 

[tery]

You guys are great!! thank you. I was thinking power steering fluid cooler, but then thought..really?? Power steering fluid needs cooling?, yes, I guess that is better if it is cooler

And finally for the tranny fluid hose??...so, there is a metal tube inside of the woven outer hose? Do you think any fluid has really been getting through that crimped hose...maybe a trickle??
I did have a flaring tool in the old days..it may be in a box somewhere