H&R springs.

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GA SHO

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New member here. I have a 2013 with PP. I have on order a set of H&R springs. I was wondering if anyone has just installed the rear ones. I have done some measurement from the top of the tire to the wheel lip and it looks like there is a inch and half difference from front to rear. So I am going to install the rear set first drive it and let the suspension settle and see what it looks like.
 

Wild13SHO

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I installed just the rear eibachs and it sits perfectly level now. I bet the H&R will end up with the rear lower than the front. There's at least one person running eibachs in the front and H&Rs in the rear and it sits level and not too low.
 

GA SHO

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Thanks for the info Wild13SHO. I installed the rear and was lower in the rear. So I just installed the front ones. I am glad I did the car looks like it should now. But did notice that there is tin type click noise from the left and right front when turning the wheel slightly left or right also the noise can be recreated when lifting the car and when the suspension travel is about half and weight starts coming off of the front end the noise happens. I checked the tie rod and sway bar links and brakes they are all fine. Starting to think that it might be the hub bearings doing it. Other than that the alignment in the front is with in spec. and the rear is about a half degree neg camber under spec. Which I can live with. I will just rotate my tires more often.
 

Wild13SHO

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The H&Rs definitely make the car. I'd like to do the H&Rs but don't want it that low. I'm liking the stock fronts with Eibach rears for now.
My last car ('05 Volvo S40) when I lowered it had a clicking noise. It turned out to be the axle shafts. May not be the same but could be.
Either rotate them more often or don't otherwise you'll end up with noisy scalloped tires.
 

GA SHO

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The noise was the front hub bearings. New ones got put in and no more noise. I always over maintenance my vehicles I oil change and rotate every 2500 miles so tires should wear good. Next upgrade is exhaust.
 

Wild13SHO

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I guess the dealer didn't give you a hard time about the springs? Not that the springs would cause the hub bearing failure.
 

GA SHO

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thanks for the spelling error QwikEVO. Also thanks for welcome ShadetreeSHOguy if you see a black on black PP with dark tint and no badges on the deck lid around the Crossroads that is me.
 

ShadetreeSHOguy

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HAHAHA. You dont happen to live on dabb's bridge do you? If you've seen a knucklehead in a red SHO or a super loud silver one...that's us showing off in front of your house. lol
 

GA SHO

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No that is not me lol. I live across from Crossroads grill in the Park at Cedarcrest. I usually only take the SHO out on Friday and Saturday if it is nice outside.
 

ShadetreeSHOguy

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Gotcha. other than the busted up green gen 2 thats around there.... If you see a SHO around here...I've had my hands on it haha

Look up SESHO on facebook, that's where most of us around here hang out..
 

TACAMO

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Installed H&Rs on my 2011 PP. Used all the hardware mods on the rear end and still can't get the drivers side camber set so it doesn't nibble the insides of new G-Max tires. It would really be nice if, after 4 years now, that someone can't provide a part to remedy the alignment issue. No noises, the car sits level (but obviously lower) and rides like it's on rails. Not happy with the alignment problem.
 

GA SHO

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I saw somewhere on the ecoboost forum that there is a bolt with a 1.75 degree cam that is for a GM that works, and instead of the nut that comes with it I believe it says to use a M14 nut with some lock tight. This is to correct the rear camber. My front camber was fine. Hope this helps
 

TACAMO

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Tried that and for the record, it didn't work. Still too much negative camber on the drivers side.
 

bykr

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Did you install the springs yourself?If so how much was involved?Thanks
 

GA SHO

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Yes I did put the springs in myself. The rear ones are a piece of cake. The front ones were not that bad. The strut to spindle bolts are splined into the spindle. Once the nuts are off I used a air hammer with a pointed tip to just pop them out. Also I did have use of a lift and air tools. Also a spring compressor to get the old ones off. Once off the new springs do not need to be compressed to reassemble on strut. Hope this helps let me know if you have any questions.
 

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