Grinding 2nd and sometimes reverse...

[SHOstuff]

Hello everyone. Its been 6 yrs since I've posted here with my last SHO thatg ended up junking. Now I have an '89 thats a whole lot better than the last. Well my first question is that when I'm driving normally without racing the engine, it grinds when going into 2ns gear. It also does it sometimes when go into reverse. Does this mean that I need to adjust something or what?

 

[shoon]

Reverse always has a tendency to grind a little bit unless you shift into 3rd & 4th before shifting into reverse.

If second is grinding your synchronizer is likely worn out.

 

[SHOstuff]

Is that an easy fix or is there a write up on how to fix it?

 

[shotime1994]

In order to change it you would have to pull the transmission. You will have to find a good used syncro then because ford doesn't make them anymore.

 

[Lorenr]

Before you pull the transmission

Do this.

1. Check the fluid level in the transmission.
2. Drill a hole in the bottom of the transmission case for a drain plug. Do a search for the procedure using an 1/8 inch pipe plug. Follow the procedure.
3. Now that the old ATF is drained replace it with fresh standard brand ATF. It'll take just more than 2 quarts. The trans does hold 3 quarts but it is hard to get it all out. Use the fill plug provided. Make your own fill tube.
4. Drive it for about 50+ miles and drain it again. Do another search for the preferred SYNTHETIC type of ATF. Refill and wait for another 50+ miles to see if it does the trick.

By the way there was a recall on many of the 89 transmissions for porous cases, so do not be surprised if the fluid level is low. Change it anyway.

 

[SHOstuff]

That recall is most likely voided huh?

 

[SHOstuff]

Do this.

1. Check the fluid level in the transmission.
2. Drill a hole in the bottom of the transmission case for a drain plug. Do a search for the procedure using an 1/8 inch pipe plug. Follow the procedure.
3. Now that the old ATF is drained replace it with fresh standard brand ATF. It'll take just more than 2 quarts. The trans does hold 3 quarts but it is hard to get it all out. Use the fill plug provided. Make your own fill tube.
4. Drive it for about 50+ miles and drain it again. Do another search for the preferred SYNTHETIC type of ATF. Refill and wait for another 50+ miles to see if it does the trick.

By the way there was a recall on many of the 89 transmissions for porous cases, so do not be surprised if the fluid level is low. Change it anyway.

So you think maybe change the fluid in it first just like you're telling me because it maybe most my problem?

 

[Lorenr]

Change Your Transmission Fluid

Change it for sure and you should probably change it again in 20 to 30 thousand miles. I change mine every 40 thousand or whenever shifting is not like going through butter.

I remember a Ford representative saying that Ford intended for the Ford ATF plus a friction modifier to be good for the life of the transmission. I guess they expected the thing to only last 50 thousand miles and not 2 or 3 hundred thousand like some of you have. A pump was needed to drain the trans or disassembling the thing was required to change it.

Anyway, add the 1/8 inch drain and do change it. The reason I say to flush the thing with regular ATF first is because there will be all kinds of crud in there needing removal. Don't waste expensive synthetic to do that. The cheap stuff also won't allow it to shift as well so take it easy until you add the good stuff and even then be careful for a while.

:angelnot:

 

[jayro]

Definatly change the trans fluid first. You may need to try different ones until you find one that works for you. Alot of time it varies by car.....what works well in one SHO doesn't in another. I have tried the following:
Mobil 1 synthetic, Penzoil Syncromesh and Valvoline MaxLife. They were all an improvement over what I had prior. The one that mine likes the best is the Valvoline MaxLife. I would also suggest changing it more than once if it has never been done before. As far as changing the syncros, you have to remove and disassemble the trans. When I did mine I used the Clutch and MTX rebuild video from Shonut Performance...I was VERY helpful. If you post for syncros in the wanted to buy sections someone should chime in.

Jeremy

 

[Shopower400]

I'll tell you this much.., if after you change the trans fluid and your STILL grinding gears (especially 2nd) DO NOT drive the car! I ended having to drive mine after the same thing happened. (had no other vehicle at the time) I would go from 1st strait to 3rd. (very bad) About 2 weeks later tranny went boom-boom!

If this is how it plays out for you, take my advice. It's alot cheaper to just replace syncros rather than rebuild or try and locate a decent mtx trans. They are getting harder & harder to find! Also depending on what your plans are with the car, as long as you don't blow up the trans, you may beable to use the old clutch & flywheel. I opted for a LUK clutch & fidanzza flywheel, as i was planning on keeping my car for some time...

Hope that helps!

p.s. The entire job after parts & labor ran me about 2k! (ouch!) ninja edit::: would've only been 1k if i hadn't blown the tranny..

 

[TYSHO]

If second is grinding your synchronizer is likely worn out.

The blocking ring wears out before the synchronizer engaging teeth. The blocking ring acts as a brake pad to stop the internals from spinning, so that the synchronizer can engage. When the blocking ring fails at its job, the internals keep spinning and grinding occurs during the shift. A replacement of the blocking ring will fix the problem. If you keep grinding away, you can still replace the blocking ring but the engagement of that specific gear will become tough to engage without any grinding.

As for changing the fluid first, I agree. I would go with Valvoline MaxLife, as many of us members have had positive results and the price is right in line. You also do not need to drill a hole, you can remove the shift interlock bolt to drain the fluid. The only thing with this, you cannot move the shifter any or you will need to open the transmission to position the internals back to the correct position if you plan on changing gears. This really isn't a problem though because you just put the car in gear/neutral, remove bolt and drain, then tighten the bolt back up, and you're done. I have never had to go back in my car and change gears; it's just like an oil change and you don't touch the shifter when you have the oil drain bolt out, anyway.

 

[wjayg]

Oil Drain

I just took an oil suction gun stuck with a clear tube down to bottom of tranny thru fill hole and then after it started I let gravity do the rest

 

[TYSHO]

I'll tell you this much.., if after you change the trans fluid and your STILL grinding gears (especially 2nd) DO NOT drive the car! I ended having to drive mine after the same thing happened. (had no other vehicle at the time) I would go from 1st strait to 3rd. (very bad) About 2 weeks later tranny went boom-boom!

I'm sure it had nothing to do with your grinding gear. Even if you replaced the synchronizer, your problem would be there from keeping the same blocking ring that is the cause of the problem.

Replacing your fluid with thick fluid like synchromesh will help your transmission go boom....

 

[SHOstuff]

I'm sure it had nothing to do with your grinding gear. Even if you replaced the synchronizer, your problem would be there from keeping the same blocking ring that is the cause of the problem.

Replacing your fluid with thick fluid like synchromesh will help your transmission go boom....

SO the same thing applies right Tysho? That I need to disassemble the trans mission to do that? Of course... Where would I get the blocking rings from?

 

[zak]

Slow down a bit. If the clutch does not disengage completely it will cause difficulty getting into gear. This could be as simple as adjusting the clutch cable > Try the self adjuster first, but I know my 100 K mile car's one no longer works. If this is the case, search out SHODOWN's instructions for Tony's method of manually adjusting the mechanism.

What is more likely is that your clutch fingers are wearing down and preventing the clutch from releasing. If this is the case, adjusting the cable typicaly only buys you a couple thousand miles. There are SHO clutch products out there that will extend the life of the fingers on your new clutch, if you mostly drive in town/shift frequently they are worth seeking out, if a highway driver then stock will be fine.

How many miles on the trans? That will be your guide to whether you really need to go into the trans and replace the synchro blocking rings.

 

[SHOstuff]

Ok Zak...I'll tr that and see if it helps.

 

[SHOstuff]

How do you adjust the clutch?

 

[rick-ng]

I'm sure it had nothing to do with your grinding gear. Even if you replaced the synchronizer, your problem would be there from keeping the same blocking ring that is the cause of the problem.

Replacing your fluid with thick fluid like synchromesh will help your transmission go boom....

Sooo....Don't use Synchromesh?

Mine didn't shift good with the atf as with the synchromesh

 

[SHOstuff]

Does anyone think lucas lubricate will help also?

 

[SHOstuff]

What y'all think about me using Lucas Oil for the mtx after the cleaning of it?