JRA2000TL
The Complainer
I called the previous owner of the SHO today to get a little more detail before I rip into doing a 60k. I also asked him about that mechanical tapping noise. He was really nice and helpful and gave me some info.
He pulled the timing cover and found that the car has a Napa belt with 3.0 and 3.2L on it, so we know that's not a factory belt. The water pump is obviously new, and the car loses no oil, so the front 60k doesn't appear to be needed at this point.
As for the mechanical noise, he did notice it on and off too and the mechanic never figured it out. The car never suffered performance wise. He did have 2 plug wires crossed and had those fixed, which corrected the miss/backfire problem he previously posted about. The car sometimes seems to run a little rough still but does not throw any codes. He did pull the valve covers and used a feeler gauge to check all of the valves. He said all looked good and were in spec. at the time. This directs me back to the cam tensioners that I was told 100,000 times to replace. (see quote below). Looks like I may not need as much work.
I mainly called him to ask if he still had the old Y-pipe for the car before he converted it to true duals. He did not but knows a source for one and is going to call me when he gets a price.
He also had the a/c system vacuumed, checked, and recharged with freeze 12 because it was previously not working. The air blows cool but probably not as cold as it should; since it's a closed system, I'm sure I have a very small leak somewhere. The compressor works but cycles on/off quite a bit....more than normal.
I just told him I was in the process of finally getting around to throwing some $ at the car and just wanted any additional information to help narrow things down. This helps me a little. If all the valves are in spec., I'll put a tensioner in there, change out the rod bearings, and let it ride.
He pulled the timing cover and found that the car has a Napa belt with 3.0 and 3.2L on it, so we know that's not a factory belt. The water pump is obviously new, and the car loses no oil, so the front 60k doesn't appear to be needed at this point.
As for the mechanical noise, he did notice it on and off too and the mechanic never figured it out. The car never suffered performance wise. He did have 2 plug wires crossed and had those fixed, which corrected the miss/backfire problem he previously posted about. The car sometimes seems to run a little rough still but does not throw any codes. He did pull the valve covers and used a feeler gauge to check all of the valves. He said all looked good and were in spec. at the time. This directs me back to the cam tensioners that I was told 100,000 times to replace. (see quote below). Looks like I may not need as much work.
I mainly called him to ask if he still had the old Y-pipe for the car before he converted it to true duals. He did not but knows a source for one and is going to call me when he gets a price.
He also had the a/c system vacuumed, checked, and recharged with freeze 12 because it was previously not working. The air blows cool but probably not as cold as it should; since it's a closed system, I'm sure I have a very small leak somewhere. The compressor works but cycles on/off quite a bit....more than normal.
I just told him I was in the process of finally getting around to throwing some $ at the car and just wanted any additional information to help narrow things down. This helps me a little. If all the valves are in spec., I'll put a tensioner in there, change out the rod bearings, and let it ride.
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