Getting driver side wheel bearing replaced, got questions

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I have a horrible grinding noise coming from the left side when making right turns. I am sure this is due to the left side bearing getting loaded when making that turn. The axle is fairly new. The clue that tells me its the wheel bearing is that when taking a right turn followed by a left, the noise goes from being loud to quiet. Started out as a squeak that I thought was a brake noise, but replaced the brakes, and there was no change.

So, where I work at there is a model shop and have taken a spare driver side knuckle into work with me with new bearing to see if these guys can press out the old hub and bearing and press in the new bearing and hub. But he was looking at it in a perplexing way, not sure how it comes apart. But another co-worker, (old school car guy) found this on the internet for a 91 Taurus.

Is this accurate to do a 94-95 hub/bearing replacment? Is there anything else I need to tell the guy pressing out the bearing?

Replacing Ford Taurus Wheel Bearings

Q. Where can I find the instructions to replace front wheel bearing for a front wheel drive car, 1991 Ford Taurus V-6?

Thanks...


A. Since you probably don't have a hydraulic press, I would suggest removing the hub, bearing and knuckle assembly and take it to a machine shop. They can press the old bearing out and the new one in.

In addition to the hydraulic press, there are a number of other special tools that are needed. If you want to see the procedure, here it is. If you think you can handle it, go for it.

Removal:

Remove wheel cover/hub cover from wheel and tire assembly and loosen wheel lug nuts.
Remove hub nut retainer and washer by applying sufficient torque to the nut to overcome prevailing torque feature of crimp in nut collar. Do not use an impact-type tool to remove hub nut retainer. Hub nut retainer must be discarded after removal.
Raise vehicle and remove wheel and tire assembly.
Remove brake caliper by loosening caliper locating pins and rotating caliper off rotor, starting from lower end of caliper and lifting upward. Do not remove caliper pins from caliper assembly. Lift caliper off rotor and hang it free of rotor. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose. Support caliper assembly with a length of wire.
Remove rotor from hub by pulling it off the hub bolts. If rotor is difficult to remove from hub, strike rotor sharply between studs with a rubber or plastic hammer. If rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant an Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA (ESR-M99C56-A) or equivalent to inboard and outboard rotor hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller D80L-1013-A or equivalent and remove rotor by pulling on rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check rotor for lateral runout prior to installation.
Lateral runout must be checked with nuts clamping stamped hat section of rotor.
Remove rotor splash shield.
Disconnect lower control arm and tie rod from knuckle (leave strut attached).
Loosen two strut top mount-to-apron nuts.
Install Hub Remover/Installer Adapter T81P-1104-A with Front Hub Remover/Replacer T81P-1104-C and Wheel Bolt Adapters T83P-1104-BH1 and Two Stud Adapter T86P-1104-A1 or equivalent and remove hub, bearing and knuckle assembly by pushing out CV joint outer shaft until it is free of assembly.
Support knuckle with a length of wire, remove strut bolt and slide hub/bearing/knuckle assembly off strut.
Carefully remove support wire, and carry hub/bearing/knuckle assembly to a bench.
On the bench, install Front Hub Puller D80L-1002-L and Shaft Protector D80L-625-1 or equivalent, with jaws of puller on knuckle bosses and remove hub. Note: Ensure the shaft protector is centered, clears the bearing ID, and rests on the end face of the hub journal.
Remove snap ring, which retains bearing in knuckle assembly, with snap ring pliers and discard.
Using a hydraulic press, place Front Bearing Spacer T86P-1104-A2 or equivalent step side up on press plate and position knuckle (outboard side up) on the spacer. Install Front Bearing Remover T83P-1104-AH2 or equivalent centered on the bearing inner race and press bearing out of the knuckle.
Discard bearing.
Installation:

On bench, remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore and hub bearing journal to ensure correct seating of new bearing. Note:

If hub bearing journal is scored or damaged, replace hub. Do not attempt to service.
The front wheel bearings are of a cartridge design and are pre-greased, sealed, and require no scheduled maintenance.
The bearings are preset and cannot be adjusted.
If a bearing is disassembled for any reason, it must be replaced as a unit. No individual service seals, roller or races are available.

Place Front Bearing Spacer T86P-1104-A2 or equivalent step side down on hydraulic press plate and position knuckle (outboard side down) on spacer. Position a new bearing in inboard side of knuckle. Install Bearing Installer T86P-1104-A3 or equivalent (undercut side facing bearing), on bearing outer race and press bearing into knuckle. Ensure that bearing seats completely against shoulder of knuckle bore. CAUTION: Bearing Installer T86P-1104-A3 or equivalent must be positioned as indicated above to prevent bearing damage during installation.
Install a new snap ring (part of bearing kit) in knuckle groove using snap ring pliers.
Place Front Bearing Spacer T86P-1104-A2 or equivalent on the arbor press plate and position hub on tool with lugs facing downward. Position knuckle assembly (outboard side down) on the hub barrel. Place Bearing Remover T83P-1104-AH2 or equivalent flat side down, centered on inner race of the bearing and press down on tool until bearing is fully seated onto hub. Ensure that hub rotates freely in knuckle after installation.
Prior to hub/bearing/knuckle installation, replace bearing dust seal on the outboard CV joint with new seal from bearing kit.
Install new dust seal, ensuring seal ****** faces outboard toward bearing. Use Drive Tube T83T-3132-A1 and Front Bearing Dust Seal Installer T86P-1104-A4 or equivalent.
Suspend the hub/bearing/knuckle assembly on the vehicle with wire and attach the strut loosely to the knuckle. Lubricate the CV joint stub shaft splines with SAE 30 weight motor oil and insert shaft into hub splines as far as possible using hand pressure only. Check that splines are properly engaged.
Temporarily fasten rotor to hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into rotor diameter and rotate clockwise to contact knuckle.
Install hub nut washer and new hub nut retainer. Rotate nut clockwise to seat CV joint. Tighten nut to 255-345 NM (188-254 ft-lbs) . Remove steel rod, washers and lug nuts. CAUTION: Do not use power or impact-type tools to tighten the hub nut.
Complete installation of front suspension components.
Install rotor splash shield. Note: Apply a small amount of Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease D7AZ-19590-A (ESA-M1C172-A) or equivalent to pilot diameter of rotor.
Install disc brake rotor to hub assembly.
Install disc brake caliper over rotor.
Ensure outer brake shoe spring hook is seated under upper arm of knuckle.
Install wheel and tire assembly, tightening wheel lug nuts finger-tight.
Lower vehicle and block wheels to prevent vehicle from rolling.
Tighten wheel lug nuts to 115-142 NM (85-105 ft-lbs) . WARNING: REPLACEMENT LUG NUTS OR STUDS MUST BE OF THE SAME TYPE AND SIZE AS THOSE BEING REPLACED.
Install wheel cover or hub cover and lower vehicle completely to the ground.
Remove wheel blocks.

Additional Information provided courtesy of AllDATA
 

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There was success in the bearing coming out with no issues. However, it looks like someone at one point when the bearing was replaced before, bent a the lip the bearing goes against. The other guy in the Model Shop, bent this back in place as it should be.

But one little cool thing he did. He sand blasted where the bearing goes in. Gave me an option as to go ahead and finish sandblasting it here at work, before the new bearing goes in. :woo-hoo:

So I am going to paint it.
 
Last edited:

itwonder

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This pictorial is for an MX6, but SHO is done the same way. Note the critical step is the last one. The hub (part with the lugs on it must be placed lugs down on the press, and the knuckle positioned above it. Then press the knuckle down onto the hub, with the bearing supported on the Ram side. If you do it the other way, with lugs facing up, and press the hub down into the knuckle, the inner bearing will be damaged.

http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-ge...ngs-hydraulic-press-required.html#post2145911
 

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