Gauging interest in Shorty Subframe connector GB

[SHO--ripper]

They will be $60+S.H each, and they will be very sturdy and beveled. I need 5 people to get this started. I will pay bizzy once there is enough interest. Don't say you want one unless there is money in you paypal or bank account. I'd like to get this started ASAP.
These can be picked up in Bristol, RI or Winsted, CT. If there are 8 people they will be $55 each. These are for gen 1 and 2 SHOs.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Dude, SOLID???

How much would they weight?

 

[SHO--ripper]

Kenny i'll edit that. The car will be able to be jacked up on them, so by soild i ment that they won't bent.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

I was REALLY hoping you were not intenting to sell solid-steel connectors

 

[SHOdownTN]

What good are connectors on our cars? if it is a benafeit I will buy a set. Does anyone have pics of some installed?

 

[Yamaha V6]

Chris, I will be looking for a set (hopefully your design is along the lines of 2x 1"x1" tubing welded together, angled & capped up front & rear).

 

[SHO--ripper]

Fred you hit the nail on the head. 4 more after you
SHOdownTN these help with traction and handling. Check out the write up on www.shotimes.com. There are pictures too.

 

[SHOMA]

I'm in.. , These are shippable, right? Also, will this prohibit the subframe from being dropped down, if need be? I have never seen a set installed, thats why I ask..
Kevin

 

[SHO--ripper]

They can be shipped.
Kevin the are for the rear of the car. You weld them on, and get better handling

 

[SHO--ripper]

3 more to go

 

[SHO2NV]

Which are better, short or long SFC's?

I ask because I have the prints and the resources for the long SFC's and was going to make some for myself, but if short are better I may just get some of these.

Also Fred, I've heard of two different sizes of tubing, 2"x1" with .120" thick wall and 1"x1" with .083 thick wall. Again, which is better?

Thanks for any input.

 

[theoriginalscion]

Here's my informitive 2 cents worth.
The subframe connectors that I fabricate are full lenght. From the front of the factory frame rails to the rear torque box. I use CR 1"x1" x .120 thick tubing.Two pieces of tubing are welded together to create a 2"x1" subframe connector. The longer the connector and more places it attaches to the body the stronger it should be. I also bend the tubing in a tubing bender, instead of cutting an angle and then welding together. This produces a stronger and better looking final product. They don't have to be welded on either , you can bolt on if you add flanges to subframe connector.
I bet I'm the only person out there that spends a couple hours Tig welding my subframe conectors together too.

Theoriginalscion
(AKA BIGWELD)

 

[Yamaha V6]

Nice.

Having used both shorty styles, I'll mention I prefer the 1x1 (x2), because it strengthens the piece noticeably. I also use that SFC as a jack point at the rear strut rod box. The 2x1 collapses some, where I haven't had the 1x1 (x2) style do that.

Kevin, the SFCs weld from the just-in-front-of-the-rear-wheel strut rod box to the long straight rail running from about the firewall back to the mid-front-door area. You weld the SFCs at the back end of that front to rearward rail. The long style welds all the way up that rail, instead of just at the end of the rail, same rear mount point.

SFCs have the potential for causing interference with the exhaust hangar at the driver's door area; this may need to be addressed, or moved, depending on your exhaust. It's why I only ran with one on my 95 ATX; the Borla was more important to me, and I didn't ever get to an exhaust shop to relocate it. On my other cars (example, with Dynomax), I've either come up with an insulator or moved the hangar.

 

[Kean_SHO]

I am in. just tell me when and where.

 

[Slo-Sho]

 

[Slo-Sho]

A must have for any GEN II!

 

[SHO--ripper]

Those are full length, and they aren't capped or beveled. Besides that mine are the same

 

[Slo-Sho]

Those are full length, and they aren't capped or beveled. Besides that mine are the same

Those are TIG welded and cost me $26 INSTALLED. Whaddya want man?

 

[Yamaha V6]

Well, if you don't bevel the front edge, and you bottom out, I want certain pieces off your car when they total it and you part it out.

Capping is preferred for preventing captured water, but from a safety standpoint, putting an angle on the leading edge is a very good thing.

 

[Slo-Sho]

Eh...cold rolled steel, the body will rust before those do. They do not travel the full length of the rail, but only halfway up the frame rail. I haven't experienced any bottoming out and am very pleased overall. Like I said...$26, Whaddya want man???