fuel pump replacement

[Detenator]

Anyone have a step-by step on how to replace a fuel pump? Mine has been humming on and off for about a year now, and im scared it will blow out during the biggest snow storm when im far from home. Is it possible to do during this weather in NY? hehe its pretty damn cold around here. How long should it take?

 

[luigisho]

There are 2 methods to do this. One is outlined correctly in a Hayne's or Chilton's. The other is around here somewhere and entails cutting a hole in the floor pan. I know which way I'd go. Laying in the snow sucks.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Only use the rear seat access panel as a route for FUTURE fuel pump swaps.

It is safest to drop the tank, THEN cut the panel out. Sparks + fuel fumes = SHOBOOM (literally) eek!

 

[Rockledge]

I recommend you drop the tank completely, but that's just my own $02.

There is some good information on the procedure here.

In any case you will want to to drain the tank as complete as possible and to do that you can follow shojuan's advice here.

 

[ckinart]

Detenator,

I replaced my fuel pump last spring by cutting through the floor underneath the rear seat. I chose this route (and didn't drop the tank beforehand) for several reasons. Living in the "rust belt," there is a good possibility that one or both fuel tank straps will require replacement once they're off, and they are not particularly cheap. Also, when the straps are removed from the tank itself, it's not uncommon for leaks to develop from the fuel tank a short time after reinstallation (the strap to tank interfaces degrade and fuse together to some degree, and can take material from the outer surface of the fuel tank when split apart).

If you choose to cut a hole in the floor underneath the rear seat without dropping the fuel tank, be very careful and think things through thoroughly.

This was the link to the instructions on how to perform this job, but I see now that the link is dead. You'll have to do some searching to see if you can find the instructions elsewhere. I would not recommend trying this without some direction, as the location of your cuts is rather critical.

Good luck! thumb

 

[Blue-By-U]

I see you're in the NY area. I can do a few things myself, but I chose not to do a fuel pump replacement mainly because of the danger involved. I took my car to New England SHO Specialists...just click on the link in my sig if you don't feel comfy doing this job yourself. Fred does excellent work, I highly recommend him. Email him to see if he is willing to work on your SHO...he hates dropping fuel tanks

 

[Detenator]

ckinart:

I replaced my fuel pump last spring by cutting through the floor underneath the rear seat.

do you remember where exactly to make that cut? I think that if possible i rather do it this way.

 

[luigisho]

We all saved the same link and it's gone. Ian graduated and lost his server space. Did you try to reach Erik T? He had a write up that he emailed me a year or two ago with pics. I don't have it anymore, but he might.

 

[Detenator]

looks like i have answered my own question
http://www3.sympatico.ca/david.sansom/SuperchargedTaurus.html
i found this link while searching and it isn't very detailed but at least you can get an idea where to start cutting. Hope this helps anyone with the same problem.

 

[luigisho]

That's close to what I had seen a while ago. Notice in the picture with the hole and the tapemeasure there is a black line running under the exposed area of the hole. That is a fuel line, so don't cut too deep with powertools.

 

[MeShoHorny]

HERE is a write up I did a few years ago. I am in Orange County, grew up in Rockland, if you need a hand let me know.

 

[ckinart]

Detenator:

ckinart:

I replaced my fuel pump last spring by cutting through the floor underneath the rear seat.

do you remember where exactly to make that cut? I think that if possible i rather do it this way.

Unfortunately, I did not keep the directions that I used to make my cuts; I got them from the "broken" link that I posted earlier. The link posted by Detenator does have some specific dimensions for where to make your cuts, but I cannot verify that this is where I made mine.

Sorry I can't provide anything more specific. frown

 

[Detenator]

Hello once again.
Hopefuly this will be the last post on this subject. I went ahead and did the fuel pump replacement earlier today and i recomend to anyone with a humming fuel pump to do the same. You never know when it will decide to quit on you and you will be stranded. Anyway if anyone helps me post pictures somewhere i will gladly share them with the forum. The procedure is pretty much straight forward, however i have a few tips for anyone who hasn't yet swaped the fuel pump.

1) remove the rear seats.
2) cut a hole in the floor
3) disconect the fuel lines and electrical connections
4) tap that annoying ring that holds the assembly in place
5) remove the pump assembly
6) disconect the rubber hose and swap the fuel pump
7) put everything back together.

now let me share a few hints with you

The dimensions that are given by Dave's supercharged taurus GL are dead on. From the right door: 22" and 28" and from the front of the **** in the floor 4" and 10"

Use a small dremel tool to make the cut. You don't want to go deep at all. The first cutting wheel lasted me about 4 inches. The seccond lasted me the rest of the cuts. What you want to do is keep the rpm's up and the pressure down. Make a shallow groove and then cut all the way through instead of cutting all the way through the first time and moving that slice accross the metal. The wheel will last much longer this way.

Make 3 cuts instead of 4, then bend the floor board up and over. This way you won't need a spectacular mounting system to hold that piece in place when reassembling the floor. Just bend it back into place.

I used a large bolt and a heavy sledge to tap that ring loose. Just make very light hits, on alternating sides, and it will slowly twist itself out of place. Don't hit more then 4 or 5 times in the same place. And don't hit hard, it will only dammage things.

There are baffels inside the tank, The pump goes inside a little container made for it, while the sending unit goes outside. These baffels are there to keep fuel level at the pump consistant, instead of sloshing away during cornering. Mind how it fits together while disasembling it so you know how they go while reassembling it.

The rubber hose that came with my pump was way too long, just cut it to lenght, you won't need more then 3 or 4 inches.

The electrical connections are pretty much fool proof. One is wider then the other so just put them on where they fit.

Put a new strainer on, this way you can get lifetime waranty at auto zone.

Now if i knew of anyone who had a server, i would post some pictures. or, if anyone wants them, Or more detailed procedures, email me.

Good luck to anyone trying this in the near future.

 

[luigisho]

pm sent