Frusturated at Clutch engagement

[bigkev]

The problem may be internally in the trans...try regular dextron 3 fluid...i had the same problem with a stock clutch and i put the regular fluid back in and now mine shifts fine. i think the internals of the trans needs to keep speed to allow the synchros to work properly

 

[bigkev]

if you manually adjust the clutch pedal the clutch will not fully engage and you will get a slipping condition and eventually burn up your clutch or break the pressure plate fingers...(words of experience)

 

[Shoaz]

FWIW, you only need to manually move the quadrant if the spring is broken or weak or the cable is sticky. If everything is working all you need to do is pull up on the clutch pedal and the spring will pull the slack out of the cable.

Otherwise, pulling up on the pedal while someone pulls the fork lever toward the front bumper will do the same thing.

 

[Racer X]

TYSHO, I'm having these same issues with my car. The only thing left that I can think of is that my clutch fork is worn to the point that it needs replacing, since that's the only thing I didn't replace when I replaced the clutch 10k ago. I'm taking the car off the road for the winter, so at some point I think I'll drop the transmission and replace the fork and the bushings and see if that causes a change in things.

FWIW, I'm also replacing the fluid in the transmission. I tried M1 synthetic. Think I'll try something else. Anyone get a definitive answer on whether Synchromesh is good in the MTX-IV and won't cause anything to go boom?

 

[dantheman68]

FWIW, you only need to manually move the quadrant if the spring is broken or weak or the cable is sticky. If everything is working all you need to do is pull up on the clutch pedal and the spring will pull the slack out of the cable.

Otherwise, pulling up on the pedal while someone pulls the fork lever toward the front bumper will do the same thing.

well when i pull up on the pedal, nothing happens, and it still engages like 2 inches from the top (lots of pedal travel when you let it up from the floor) if i disconnect the cable, and pull up on it then it will click, but it still has the same high engagement point

 

[Shoaz]

Disconnecting the cable and then letting it adjust defeats the purpose of the adjustment, which is to take out the slack in the cable.

As mentioned, the fork may be tweaked and/or the fork bushings may be tweaked so that you don't get adequate adjustment range.

FWIW, high engagement has seemed normal to me on a lot of SHOs, my 95 (that I've owned since new) has always been that way, three clutches later.

 

[dantheman68]

oh i meant i disconnect and then reconnect it... i have another idea for the whole shifting problem... which is my main concern.... so ill look at that first, and then work with the clutch...

 

[dantheman68]

so i manually adjusted the clutch this weekend and it made the world of difference... wow... the engagement is somewhat normal, and i dont have a problem shifting, or getting it into first like i used to have... guess thats all i needed... i just hope my TOB doesnt wear too fast... i tried adjusting it so it had some slack to stay away from the PP, but still engage decently..

 

[blue2ndgen]

so i manually adjusted the clutch this weekend and it made the world of difference... wow... the engagement is somewhat normal, and i dont have a problem shifting, or getting it into first like i used to have... guess thats all i needed... i just hope my TOB doesnt wear too fast... i tried adjusting it so it had some slack to stay away from the PP, but still engage decently..

Can you describe the method you used to do this?

 

[dantheman68]

well i pulled up on the clutch and pushed up on the light blue quadrant with a screwdriver, then still holding the blue piece where it was, let go of the pedal, so it locked the gears in, i had to play around with it, it can be reset by just lifting up on the pedal.

 

[blue2ndgen]

So that did help with the problem of the lutch not engaging until it was almost all the way up?

 

[dantheman68]

yeah it engages about 1/2way now, and the clutch pedal is about even with the brake pedal (clutch is a little higher)

 

[newkid]

hey guys, im a new member here and i just purchased my first SHO (its also my first car ever) and i ran into some problems. the one that concerns me the most is a clutch pedal/cable problem, although im not sure exactly whats wrong. when i go to engage the clutch pedal there isnt any resistance, it goes right to the floor and sticks. does anybody know what the problem might be?

 

[TYSHO]

hey guys, im a new member here and i just purchased my first SHO (its also my first car ever) and i ran into some problems. the one that concerns me the most is a clutch pedal/cable problem, although im not sure exactly whats wrong. when i go to engage the clutch pedal there isnt any resistance, it goes right to the floor and sticks. does anybody know what the problem might be?

Snapped cable, cable not connected on the end of the lever arm to the TOB shift lever, or the pressure plate fingers are completely worn through.

Check the cable first, you might need another person while doing so.

 

[newkid]

i looked at the cable, it didnt look snapped anywhere.

 

[newkid]

well, ill take a closer look at the cable tonight. thanks for your help.

 

[Rockledge]

hey guys, im a new member here and i just purchased my first SHO (its also my first car ever) and i ran into some problems. the one that concerns me the most is a clutch pedal/cable problem, although im not sure exactly whats wrong. when i go to engage the clutch pedal there isnt any resistance, it goes right to the floor and sticks. does anybody know what the problem might be?

Have somebody operate the clutch pedal up and down while you look under the hood at the clutch-release lever which can be seen on the top of the tranny/bellhousing. If the lever isn't moving, then it's probably a cable problem (which could include a break or just being disconnected). If the lever does move, then there are problems inside the unit and it's gonna have to come out for repairs.