Front Wheel Grind Sound

[Chuck 91 SHO Plus]

Just finishing up the 120K maintenance and am in the process of diagnosing my front wheel grind. I suspect it is either a wheel bearing or a CV Joint.

Basically the noise is from my drivers side front wheel and it sounds like sandpaper over wood. The brake pads are brand new, the tranny is brand new, so I can only figure wheel bearing or CV Joint. Anybody have a better idea, and which would be more likely. Do not want to do both.

 

[sdpatt]

Welcome to the Forum, Chuck. The front wheel bearings on my 1991 SHO failed last year after 240,000 miles of use. It looked like the mechanism for the failure was the deterioration of the rubber seal on the bearings due to time and heat. I replaced the rear hub and bearings and found the originals to still be in good shape because the bearing space is sealed from the enviroment, unlike the front bearings.

The worn bearings first sounded like a worn brake pad grinding on the rotor during braking. You can jack up the car and check to see how much play the bearings have. There shouldn't be any. If you have to replace them, it may be cheaper to buy a whole assembly rather than have the old bearing pressed out and the new ones pressed in. Shop around, because a Ford shop ***** me for this repair. Reminding me once again, why I do most of my own work.

 

[Markus]

Scott, how much did your front hub cost? Can you buy the hub without the bearing? I replaced my bearings yesterday only to discover the hub is worn, and I'd like to reuse the new bearing if I can.

Thanks

 

[sdpatt]

Embarassingly, I took the car to a Ford dealer to do the work. BIG mistake. Only reminded me of why I do the other work myself. I had heard about the press force necessary to replace the $28 bearings. In fact, Ford had to send the hub to a Honda shop next door for the 5,000 pound press.

I replaced the rear hubs and they included the new bearings for $50 each complete. I wonder if the fronts are also equipped that way. No, I didn't price the hub. I sure wish I had. (Kicking self).

 

[Blue-By-U]

I think this topic also applies to me...I also heard a grinding noise when braking from my drivers side wheel. Changed the oil today and while I was under there saw that little boot with ridges on it to be torn. What new parts do I need and can I do this work myself? How much $ are we talking here?
Thanks!
~Alex

 

[projectSHO89]

Alex,

That "boot" is the cover for the CV joint.

It needs to be fixed ASAP or you'll need a new CV joint/halfshaft.

You can pick up a "split-boot" to replace it. They are a pain to get on right, cost under 20 bucks, and, at best, should be considered a temporary fix. On the other hand, I put one on my old 90 Tempo, then ran it another 50,000 miles....

I just replaced the passenger side half-shaft last month on my SHO. It cost about 60 bucks exchange at AutoZone. I had to go to Advance to 'borrow' the correct tool to do it.

That torn boot by itself is probably not the reason for your noise. It may have expelled its grease onto your rotor and the grease has been collecting road grit and gravel, causing the noise.

All this assumes you checked your front rotors and pads and they're okay.

Steve

 

[MeShoHorny]

Here is my post to the same problem that you are describing.

http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=000368

I was lucky and had access to a 10 ton press. You can still save some money by doing it yourself and taking the knuckle to a shop with a press, having them press out the old unit and in with the new.

 

[Blue-By-U]

Thanks for the reply guys, yes there is some grease on the rotor outside the boot. Once I replace the boot how do I know the grinding will stop? What is entailed in replacing my CV joint/halfshaft...how much would a shop charge?
~Alex

 

[DHMag]

Markus:
Scott, how much did your front hub cost? Can you buy the hub without the bearing? I replaced my bearings yesterday only to discover the hub is worn, and I'd like to reuse the new bearing if I can.

Thanks

at Pep Boys, a new hub with bearing costs roughly 75 dollas. the bearing alone is 35.

 

[Blue-By-U]

Steve,
Thanks for the insight. Assuming there is grit and gravel in the splattered grease, is it imperative to replace something? What exactly should be done...I don't think a new boot would fix the light grinding I experience when starting from a stop.
Thanks again for all your help!

 

[MeShoHorny]

LL-Cool-A:
Steve,
Thanks for the insight. Assuming there is grit and gravel in the splattered grease, is it imperative to replace something? What exactly should be done...I don't think a new boot would fix the light grinding I experience when starting from a stop.
Thanks again for all your help!

Do yourself a favor and get a new half-shaft. Once dirt gets in there or it starts to click they are pretty much toast.

They are $69 at Autozone or Napa. Takes me about 30 mins. to install one but I have had a lot of practice unfortunately. For your 1st time I think an hour would be a good time frame. The only specail tool you will need is a 30mm deep socket for the hub nut.

 

[Blue-By-U]

Thanks again for your help. I will just get a new halfshaft like you said. I have a Chilton manual...will that guide me or is the job easy enough where I can just take the wheel off and start from there? Does the halfshaft include the boot?
Thanks again...lol I'm one of the more inexperienced ones on here.
~Alex

 

[MeShoHorny]

LL-Cool-A:
Thanks again for your help. I will just get a new halfshaft like you said. I have a Chilton manual...will that guide me or is the job easy enough where I can just take the wheel off and start from there? Does the halfshaft include the boot?
Thanks again...lol I'm one of the more inexperienced ones on here.
~Alex

I haven't read the Chiltins so I can't comment on there procedure. The half-shaft comprises everything between the splines of the transaxle to the splines of the wheel hub, so yes, both outter and inner boots come with the half-shaft.
Here is my Cliff notes version on half-shaft replacement:

With car on the ground losen (don't remove) the 30mm hub nut. Lossen the 5 lug nuts as well.

Jack up car, remove wheel, remove lower control arm pinch bolt (18mm). With a pipe or long bar bust out the ball joint from the knuckle. Cover it with some rags as you don't want to damage to rubber boot.

Remove the hub nut and push the outter half shaft out while pulling out on the strut assembly. Once the outter splines are out, I use a small pickle fork to remove the inner portion of the shaft. You can use a long screw driver or tire iron to pop it out of the transaxle. Make sure when removing not to damage the seal or you will be replacing that as well.

To install just reverse the the above. One thing I learned, thanks to Marcus B, is that when you are intsalling the transaxle end of the half-shaft make sure that the c-clip's open end is facing down towards the ground. This helps it pop in with a little pressure.

When all done lower the car and MAKE SURE that you torque the hub nut to 180-200lb and the lug nuts to 75lb

Good luck

 

[projectSHO89]

If the grease has contaminated your brake pads, you will need to replace them also. Clean your rotor carefully and have it machined if needed.

Steve