Front sway bar bushings

[Lightning]

Anyone successfully changed these out (not the end links, the subframe mounted bushings) without dropping the subframe on a Gen 1?

Going to be doing SF recall and SF bushing upgrade this spring or summer and don't really want to start pulling the subframe apart until that time.

I have the feeling I'm SOL without dropping the subframe, but figured I'd throw it out there...

 

[tracy_s_1993_atx]

I changed the front sway bar bushings on my 93 ATX without dropping the sub frame. Let me say that it is not easy, but it is possible. I happened to coin several new expressions while changing them...

There is not much room between the bushings and the firewall.

Later,
Michael

 

[johndallara]

swaybar bushings changes

there are several threads on this out there.

basically, you are much better off dropping the rear of the subframe a few inches for this job. You can leave the front subframe bushings in place as long as they are non-aluminum. It is also probably a good idea to loosen the front bushing nuts a little.

Then, with bottle jacks and backup blocks, you can slowly lower the subframe to access the swaybar bushings. This is a good time to check/upgrade swaybar itself. Also don't forget to remove the steering rack bolts (2 x 15/16) to allow the subframe to drop unhindered.

PM me or let me know if you have any problem w/ this I can probably dig up some pictures.

JD

 

[Storm-Chaser]

The following is taken from the **** Service Manual:


Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front (04-01-18)

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Stabilizer Bar/Link Assembly and/or Insulators

Stabilizer Bar Link Assembly

Removal

1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Section 00-02.
   
   
2. Support vehicle with hoist or safety stands
   behind front subframe.
   
   
3. Remove and discard nuts retaining stabilizer bar
   link assembly to front stabilizer bar and front
   spring and shock with an 8mm closed-end
   wrench and an 18mm open-end wrench.
   
   
   
   
   

   

   
   
   

   
   Printable Image for the :sun:
   ​
   
   
   CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage
   the line ball joint seal.
   
   
4. Remove nuts retaining steering gear (3504) to
   front subframe, and move steering gear off the
   front subframe.
   
   
5. With another set of support safety stands under
   front subframe, remove two rear subframe
   retaining bolts. Lower rear of the front subframe
   to obtain access to stabilizer bar brackets.
   
   
   
   
   

   

   
   
   
   

   
   Printable Image for the :sun:
   ​
   
   
6. Remove front stabilizer bar U-bracket bolts and
   replace rack and pinion mounting bracket
   insulator (5484), stabilizer bar brackets and/or
   front stabilizer bar as required. Discard rack and
   pinion mounting bracket insulators and bolts.
   
   
   * The above information for Removal step 6
   is incorrect, and should state the following:
   
   
   • Remove front stabilizer bar mounting
     bracket bolts and replace lower suspension
     arm stabilizer bar insulators (5493),
     stabilizer bar brackets and/or front
     stabilizer bar as required. Discard
     stabilizer bar insulators and stabilizer
     bar bracket bolts.

Installation

1. Clean front stabilizer bar to remove dirt and
   contamination in area of lower suspension arm
   stabilizer bar insulator installation position.
   
   
2. Lubricate inside diameter of new rack and pinion
   mounting bracket insulator with Rubber
   Suspension Insulator **** E25Y-19553-A
   (ESF-M99B112-A) or equivalent. Do not use any
   mineral or petroleum based lubricants as they will
   deteriorate the rubber lower suspension arm
   stabilizer bar insulators.
   
   
   * The above information for Installation step 2
   is incorrect, and should state the following:
   
   
   • Lubricate inside diameter of new lower
     suspension arm stabilizer bar insulator
     with Rubber Suspension Insulator ****
     E25Y-19553-A (ESF-M99B112-A) or
     equivalent. Do not use any mineral or
     petroleum based lubricants as they will
     deteriorate the rubber lower suspension
     arm stabilizer bar insulators.
   
   
   
3. Install new lower suspension arm stabilizer bar
   insulators onto front stabilizer bar and position
   them in approximate location.
   
   
4. Install stabilizer bar bracket on lower suspension
   arm stabilizer bar insulators and install new bolts.
   Tighten to 30-40 N∙m (23-29 lb-ft).
   
   
5. Raise front subframe and install new front
   subframe-to-body retaining bolts. Position
   steering gear onto front subframe and install
   retaining nuts. Tighten to 115-135 N∙m (85-99
   lb-ft).
   
   
6. Install stabilizer bar link to front spring and
   shock and to stabilizer bar link, making sure that
   the stabilizer bar link is properly positioned. The
   letters "Top LH" and "Top RH" are molded into
   the stabilizer bar link for correct assembly to the
   front spring and shock. Use care not to damage
   link ball joint boot seal.
   
   
7. Install new nuts and secure stabilizer bar link
   assembly to stabilizer bar and front spring
   and shock. Tighten to 77-103 N∙m (57-75 lb-ft)
   at front spring and shock and 47-63 N∙m (35-46
   lb-ft) at front stabilizer bar.
   
   
8. Remove safety stands.
   
   
9. Lower vehicle.

Don't you just love the ****-nature of these procedures,

• Remove safety stands.
  
  
• Lower vehicle.

Btw, I have the AutoZone Online Vehicle Repair Guide
fully linked within this thread ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑

 

[Lightning]

Yeah, I know what the Helm Manual says, first place I looked. But, I know that a some guys have found other (read as: simpler) methods to perform various tasks and I was kind of hoping this would be one of them.

I think I'll just wait until it's time to do the SFBs and recall and do it all in one shot. I just hate having new parts on hand to install and then waiting and waiting to perform the maint...

Thanks for the reminder on the AZ manual Storm, forgot about that.

And JD, thanks for the offer, but I'll be just fine with it once it comes time to it, I can see that's pretty straight forward. I just have to get off my lazy ass and get the car in the air and crawl under it...

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Unless you can get the SHO on a side-post lift, you're going to find it's a monumental pain-in-the-ass to get the stabilizer brackets out. If I remeber correctly, there's maybe a 1/2" clearance between the bracket and the firewall for the two lower bracket bolts.

Wanna guess how long the bolts are . . . ?


[hears evil Dr. Strangelove laugh in the background . . . . ]

 

[Storm-Chaser]

If you do try this without dropping the subframe . . . .


been there, . . . done that . . . .

 

[Lightning]

yeah, 1/2" sounds about right.

Don't think I can reasonably do it my my big mitts...

 

[pjtoledo]

Since you're up in the rust belt, the pads/brackets the bushings sit on rust through. Yes, I mean the steel pads/brackets that are welded to the subframe. Unbolt the clamps, lift up the bushings, find big holes underneath. I hate salt, don't even use it on my food.

You can get at the top bolts by going in thru the wheel well, but it ain't easy.

 

[Lightning]

Think what i am going to do is this:

My car still needs to have the SF rust recall performed, I think I will plan to get it into the shop this spring to get it done, and try to talk the shop into changing them out and installing new SFBs while the subframe is down anyway...