The holes were not for cooling, but for escape of gases generated by the pads. Modern pads do not really have this concern, so the holes are more for weight savings and appearance, but not in that order. The drilled holes actually reduce the friction and heat sink surface area of the rotor, resulting in higher brake rotor temperatures. The way to cool them is to provide greater cooling air flow, greater heat sink surface area, or both.
You
can greatly increase the braking performance of even the 10.2" stock brakes by using a higher quality pad with higher friction coefficient and greater temperature range. Pads such as the Carbotech 1521 with great bite and are good up to 800F will provide a greater margin of safety on the street with even the stock rotors.
Carbotech Site:
http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp
For rotors, I recommend using economical disks that, after initial break-in to mate the surfaces, are bedded and heat cycled per the instructions in the FAQ/Bedding Procedure information in the Carbotech site above.
With brakes, you get what you pay for. I finally upgraded to the '96 configuration (with the generous help of a Forum member) after I started taking my '91 to the track. The stock rotors and calipers were seeing temperatures over 900F. The '96 components kept this below 600F for the same track, even though I was running faster laps with upgrades to R-compound tires and Carbotech XP10 pads. For street use, you can upgrade the pads for the results you are looking for.