Front brakes !

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mylaw

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Do front rotors and pads wear fasat on the SHO's !!!
Mine went prety quick mind you the were not that new but they are grinding badly in a matter of days !! ANyone else have thisa issue !

Thanks
 

djcannon

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Not so much the pads, but the rotors warp quickly. Front brakes are probably the weakest point on the gen II SHO's like yours (and mine!)

The rotors are way too small(10.7 inches) and don't dissipate enough heat, so they end up warping very quickly.

There's lots of posts in here on brake upgrades to a generation III (96-99). Those rotors are 11.6 in diameter and will stand up much better.

It sounds like you might have other issues, though. Unless they were worn a whole lot already, they shouldn't grind in a matter of days as you stated.
 

mylaw

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well the drivers side is grinding and the passenger side is not .. if the caliper was seized i would be hearing it grind all the time.. but it reallyt grinds when i push the brakes...
I was told possibly the sliders need to be cleaned and lubed sound right to you ...!!!!
 

mylaw

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how long does it usually take to replace rotors and pads in the front.. Will I have a problem with abs sensor or anything...
 

nc89sho

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sliders are a big problem with these cars. they seize up all the time. i would deff keep an eye on them and **** them every brake job. also, if your fronts wear prematurely but evenly your rear brakes may not be doing there job. check for seized calipers in the rear or a non functioning/ out of adjustment parking brake.
 

mylaw

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I replaced calipers rotors and pads in the rear !
When I bought the car the owner told me the breaks are about 40%
I bough the April
I am hoping it is justthe sliders tha need to be lubed !
 

SonicRiot

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Sometimes te pistons seize in the rear. They must be cleaned of rust, inspected for lip seal damage, and then twisted back into the caliper.

As for the fronts, cleaning and then lubing the sliders is a must. Failing to do so may result in wasted brake pads and blued or waped rotors in no time.

Don't use a basic white lithium grease on the sliders or backing plate to caliper contact areas. It may liquify under high temps and can imbed in the pad causing poor braking or rub off the contact surfaces causing noise. Use a very high temp resistant grease designed for brakes or a racing-grade anti-seize.

That might have been obvious to some but I can't tell you how many times I've seen it done...
 

mylaw

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are the front calipers twist and turn to compress like the rears
or are they normal compress with a c clamp !
 

jbeano

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Straight forward to change, nothing complicated. Also the piston just has to be compressed, no turning necessary.
 

mylaw

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thanks for your time I wll try it tonight and hopefully things work out.
 

mylaw

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I changed the rotors and pads and i have awesome brakes !
THanks for your help guys I really appreciate it.
 

CerberuS

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Front brakes (new rotor plus pads) should be lasting 40,000 KMS to 80,000 KMS depending on city-highway ratio you have , and the way you drive too will play in the balance (2 feet drivers - always last minute braking) will shorten the life of em.
 

SHOtimer

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You should look into the '96 upgrade, cheap and greatly increased braking power, without warping rotors.

Also, in '93 there are no slider pins on the front, the caliper/pads slide on the knuckle itself.

The '94/'95 setup utilizes slider pins in the front.

Doug
 

mylaw

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the 2 screws i had to remove to get the caliper off were dry so i lubed them
 

mylaw

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yeah that is why it wore that side faster than the passenger side
 

SonicRiot

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CerberuS said:
Front brakes (new rotor plus pads) should be lasting 40,000 KMS to 80,000 KMS depending on city-highway ratio you have , and the way you drive too will play in the balance (2 feet drivers - always last minute braking) will shorten the life of em.


Uh, what's that in American?
 

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