Fluid Flushing Time!

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Phokus

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I don't know how long any of this stuff has been in the car so mind as well start fresh right?

I've tried to look up the amount of stuff needed for each but can't find exact numbers.

I'm going to flush the coolant out and put new stuff in, change the power steering fluid, and after getting a drain plug in to the MTX, changing that too.

So how much do I need of
Coolant? < some premixed 50/50 stuff
Power Steering Fluid? < any recommendations for what to use here?
Tranny fluid? < going to use Mobil 1 ATF?
 

SHOtimer

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With the pre-mixed coolant, you are paying the same as the non-diluted, but only getting half.

I buy Motorcraft coolant, because I like it, and I get it at the same price as Prestone. Prestone isn't very green, I like how Motorcraft has a good color.

You need 'Type F' in the power steering system. Castrol, Valvoline, or Motorcraft.

Mobil 1 ATF is fine.

Doug
 

jmpSHO2nd

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Do a search on here about the MTX trans fluid I think some people didn't like the Mobil 1 after they put some miles on it.
 

Phokus

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How many gallons of coolant do I need after I drain it out?
I'll check the prices on Motorcraft coolant, I bought a jug last time but I forget how much. If it's not too much more I suppose I can go for that

I searched for Mobil 1 ATF but didn't find any posts about people not liking it afterwards

oh and how much of each do I need so I can buy it at the store first; just realized I didn't get any numbers. lol
 

itwonder

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Do a search on here about the MTX trans fluid I think some people didn't like the Mobil 1 after they put some miles on it.

Nope, Mobil 1 is the most reliable choice for the MTX. Some like others better, and some have problems those same others. But Mobil 1 gets pretty consistent positive results.

You need about 4 quarts of Type F ATF to flush the PS system, then another 1 1/2 quarts to fill it.

The cooling system capacity is 11.6 quarts, so buy 3 gallons of 50-50 premix --- or 2 gallons of full strength antifreeze and 2 gallons of distilled water to mix your own; less expensive that way. There is a block drain on the front and another on the rear of the block you need to remove to drain the system, in addition to the radiator drain of course. Remove the small cooling hose that enters the throttle body vertically from the bottom when refilling or else it's hard to complete fill the system due to air lock.

While you are at it, you should flush the brake system too. A quart of brake fluid will do it.
 
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Phokus

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Mixing stuff like 50% of water and 50% of coolant isn't something I want to do. I MAY botch it. lol

Never messed with brakes or power steering before.
(I'm carrying over knowledge from my bike here)
Flushing the PS with 4 quarts sounds like I disconnect something somewhere so it drains from there rather than just sucking it out of the tub.
Where is this tube/hose?

How would I get the brakes flushed too?
DOT3 or DOT4?
 

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I think it is easy to use a turkey baster and slowly suck out the p/s fluid and replace it with new good stuff...that way it also cleans it out.

Doug
 

Phokus

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For the power steering the turkey baster was what I was going to resort to doing but I'm not sure but I think I read somewhere that I have to turn the steering wheel left and right to jiggle the rest of the fluid out? Or was that something else.

I suppose I could make one of those DIY fluid sucker things.
 

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...sucking out the fluid in the reservoir and replacing it slowly replaces all the fluid in the system, doesn't introduce any air into the system, is a lot cleaner and easier than disconnecting hoses...ect.

Also, a lot of times when you pump the system out and then replace all the fluid it will get dirty again quickly. ATF has a high amount of detergent so it will clean all the crap out and get the fresh fluid dirty.

But, when you slowly replace it and clean it out - once it gets clean, it will stay clean.

Doug
 

itwonder

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...sucking out the fluid in the reservoir and replacing it slowly replaces all the fluid in the system,

Doug

That is a bit hard to follow. The reservoir holds about 8 ounces of the 48 ounces of fluid in the system. Since it is at the top of the system, the other 40 ounces of old fluid will not be touched by sucking anything out of the reservoir. There is nothing oddball about disconnecting the return line and flushing the whole system. That is how the pros do it. If the fluid gets dirty quickly and smells burned, that's a sign that the rack is near end of life and proactive replacement is a good idea...especially since a remanufactured TRW rack is just $70 at RockAuto currently, with no core charge.
 
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SHOtimer

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Well, it does work if you do it once a week while you are driving the car around in between each time you replace the fluid.

I naturally assumed that by reading the post one would assume that the car would be driven around between replacing the fluid in the reservoir....a little at a time.

- a lot easier than replacing a rack.

Doug
 

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Remove the small cooling hose that enters the throttle body vertically from the bottom when refilling or else it's hard to complete fill the system due to air lock.

You can also buy the coolant flushing kit at WalMart, installing the adaptor for the water hose at the heater core hose. You can flush the system out with the cleanser, then leave the cap off to refill instantly without any air lock. You will want 100% antifreeze to go in with the water already inside the engine from the flushing out. The only reason distilled water is recommended is to prevent mineral deposits in the cooling system. Well, guess what? That's why the system recommends antifreeze, to prevent the water from freezing, rusting the system, and prevention of mineral deposits. There's no need to buy distilled water unless you are racing your engine and need a faster cooling rate from the water, and have minimal coolant/antifreeze in the system to keep the water from boiling over in this environment. I don't think that case applies here...
 

Phokus

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I got some Motorcraft green coolant stuff.

How can I flush it and just completely fill it with this? If I get that kit it would leave water in there. How much of that water can actually be drained out?

Is a flush really necessary? Could I just drain it all out or drain out whatever comes out and just fill from there?
 

TYSHO

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I got some Motorcraft green coolant stuff.

How can I flush it and just completely fill it with this? If I get that kit it would leave water in there. How much of that water can actually be drained out?

Is a flush really necessary? Could I just drain it all out or drain out whatever comes out and just fill from there?

A flush is highly recommended so you can flush all of the old crap out of the system, cleaning the system and making it more effective. It is more important than just draining what you can and adding a specific ratio of coolant to water.

You will leave the radiator cap off [this is where you will see the old coolant mix being pushed out until you see a clear flow of water coming out] and drain valve open [bottom of radiator, driver side] when flushing the old coolant mix out. When done flushing, you leave the drain open to drain the radiator from water [removing the lower coolant hose from the radiator side will help, too], then close and fill with coolant. That's how I do it. I can't tell you the coolant/water ratio because I never pay attention to it [more than a gallon of coolant for sure!], due to the fact that I flush my system every year and it's in tip top shape from doing so.
 

Phokus

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Ok I bought the flushing kit I'll just flush it.

But now that I examine my bottle of coolant I'm confused. I think I need to add water to this.. yes?

coolant.jpg
 

Phokus

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Oh so essentially I just need 1.5 gallons of coolant and 1.5 of water.

But when I do the flush wouldn't there be water still in the system? Draining it doesnt get it all out according to a coolant flush video i saw
 

TYSHO

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Oh so essentially I just need 1.5 gallons of coolant and 1.5 of water.

But when I do the flush wouldn't there be water still in the system? Draining it doesnt get it all out according to a coolant flush video i saw


Yes, this is why you pour the whole coolant bottle in without adding water because the engine is already holding the water needed. This of course, if you perform the flush of the system.

It doesn't matter how it's mixed, it doesn't require to be mixed before pouring into the system. You are right, you basically need 1.5 gallons of each. It's nothing too complicated. :)
 

itwonder

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If you do it that way you end up with 50% municipal or well water in your cooling system. Many people choose to ignore that as an issue. IMO, if your water is hard enough to leave spots when you wash the car, then you don't want that hard water in your cooling system. The solution is to drain the system after flushing. To do that, you need to have your SHO up on ramps. There is a drain plug in the engine block located just above the starter, and another in the corresponding location on the back side of the block. Remove both of those plugs, and drain the radiator. Reinstall the block drains with some pipe thread sealant. Refill with 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water.

Unless the system has been neglected and shows obvious signs of discolored coolant, I do not think system flushing with a flushing chemical is advisable. It is very tough to get it all out of there afterwards, and I don't see the sufficient benefit to justify it. Those flushing kits are great for systems that have been neglected, but overkill if the system has been reasonably maintained. Drain the system including block, flush the radiator from the top with a hose and let it drain, and refill with equal parts of antifreeze and distilled water is all one needs to do for a well maintained system. Another method is to drain the radiator, and refill with distilled water. Drive around, with heater on full. Repeat that cycle 3-4 times. Then fully drain the radiator and block. That flushes the system, but takes more time.
 
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