First Performance Mod

[glxrustang]

Hello All, I am new and this is my first post. im sure that there is mention of this somewhere here, but ive got specific questions about my mod. i wonder if i should invest in the tweecer to adjust rev limiter and maybe cams when i do my 60K thing. for now, im sticking with n/a, but much later on, will go T04b turbo. so what do you think?

1) Tweecer
2) Cams or
3) MAF??? (MAF needs the Tweecer so this counts for both)

 

[bubba]

Are you MTX or ATX? MTX y-pipe is the first thing you do! and the well that's a dealers choice lol..... I would make sure everything is in order before doing anything to make it faster

 

[firebat45]

You can't really do cams without a Tweecer (well, you can do +10 or +20, but if you're getting cams, go for +40 or Triflow).

Tweecer is also not really a performance mod, it won't gain you anything really. It just lets you properly utilize other performance mods (like cams!). Think of it as a performance mod enabler.

MAF isn't needed until you go turbo, so don't even bother with that.

Like someone said, Y-pipe is the best first mod. Buy a nice one and keep it in good shape, then sell it when you turbo the car.

But by far the most important thing is to do the maintenance. Most important, do the rod bearings. Do the 60k when you get a chance too. Take a look at suspension bushings, they could probably use replacing. Brake pads and rotors too. You could do the brake upgrade too when you look at the brakes.

 

[fdogg96]

Get an underdrive pulley.

If you get a PMAS MAF or from a Mark 8, I believe you will need tuning.

 

[shobote]

First thing is y-pipe if you are mtx; then work over the suspension; SFC's, STB's, etc, and do brakes, added power does you no good if you cannot put it down, have no control or cannot stop. Turbo should be the very last mod after absolutely everything else has been done to the car; quaife (wavetrac), wheels, tires, all bushings, perf. clutch, etc... n/a Cam's are also very costly and will also need to come out if you go turbo. It is very costly to update a SHO with all the perf. mods, and the bang for the buck is not like a mustang or camero either.

 

[38SHO]

first mod is BRAKES! first damn thing get atleast 11.6" brakes

then make sure the suspension is in proper working order or not worn out

then do a y pipe

ported intake/BBB's is something a lot of people do too...

 

[AREA 91]

1. Mantainance
2. 96 upgraded brakes
3. Y pipe if MTX

 

[SHOspazz92]

You can't really do cams without a Tweecer (well, you can do +10 or +20, but if you're getting cams, go for +40 or Triflow).

I for one do like the idea of my SHO having an interference motor with the +40 Cams. I know with proper maintenance you should be fine but it's just one more thing to ad to the list of what can go wrong.

The +20 Cams are perfect for a street car IMO and make decent power up to 7500 RPM's. I've been very happy with them.

But anyways.

Mantainence, Brakes and a Y-Pipe as Brian stated.

-Sam

 

[glxrustang]

Sold on Y-pipe! Yes mine is the MTX didnt really think the Y-pipe was needed just yet. SHO source has one w/o CAT's. In my area, emissions arent checked, so it isnt a problem. But why is the Tweecer needed for Cams? I like the idea of the Triflow, you really dont know unless you drive a SHO, but when 3000 rpm hits, the secondary butterflies open and she sounds down right MEAN. Triflow is a race cam only for the secondaries, but street cam for primaries. So why is the Tweecer needed for the cams???

Back to my first mod, next pay check will go toward SHO source y-pipe, thanks guys

 

[93rev2sev]

I agree with these guys, too. Y-pipe, Brake upgrade, Maintenance. If you are getting cams, you will be doing cam seals, too. Since you will be basically doing a complete top and front 60k if you do cams, decide soon if you are. Since you are talking about turbos, do some research on cam selection for a turbo setup that will still work well N/A. This way you can do the cams, the 60k's and the tweecer right away.

On the other hand,
With a turbo, you don't have to worry as much about induction. Big bore butterflys, cams, porting and polishing heads and intake provide more "horsepower per dollar" on a N/A setup.

I think if the plan is to turbo the car, then I would be saving my money for that and not worrying too much about cams.

In the meantime, a y-pipe (which you can always sell when you turbo it), a maf sensor (which can be used when you turbo it), and a twEECer (which will be NEEDED when you turbo it) will provide you with plenty of fun while you collect turbo parts, get used to the car, tuning, perform maintenance, and upgrade whatever suspension/brake parts you want.

 

[firebat45]

I for one do like the idea of my SHO having an interference motor with the +40 Cams. I know with proper maintenance you should be fine but it's just one more thing to ad to the list of what can go wrong.

The +20 Cams are perfect for a street car IMO and make decent power up to 7500 RPM's. I've been very happy with them.

But anyways.

Mantainence, Brakes and a Y-Pipe as Brian stated.

-Sam

I forgot about that, you're right. But, new pistons mean it's back to non-interference, and he's going to need pistons for the turbo too, so at worst you'd be running an interference motor for a little while, not permanently.

 

[93rev2sev]

tweecer is needed whenever you significantly change the amount of air or fuel entering the engine(cams) or when you change out any of the metering devices (MAF, primarily).

I'd strongly recommending the twEEcer right away. Since a turbo is a mod that has a whole bunch of other mods as prerequisites, you can perform THOSE mods. If you have a twEECer from the beginning you can re-tune it for each of them.

Turbo prerequisite mods(suggestions):
Upgrade the fuel system (190 pump, aftermarket regulator, fuel injectors)
Change out the MAF
Install wideband O2s
install guages
perform maintenance
get a clutch
Learn to tune with twEECer

I think the stock internals are good to at least 9psi (safely and reliably) and thats about all the transmission can take without some serious mods of it's own (quaife or wavetrac, or at least a welded diff). There are some people running more boost on stock transmisssions but most of them have gone through a few.

 

[SHOtime2511]

Mantainance
Brakes...at least the 96 upgrade.
N2o...screw N/A mods,their useless.

 

[glxrustang]

maintainance, maintainance, maintainance!!! this involves what? plugs, wires, filters, all that yada yada?! or does it mean the dreaded 60k shimming?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Yeah valve adjustment. Spark plugs, wires and valve cover gasket. Thats for the top.

 

[firebat45]

60k shimming (actually the upper 60k, the front 60k is a whole different beast) isn't that bad at all. It's a bit of a pain if you do it with the engine in the car, but it's really only a few hours work, and mostly easy, just repetitive.

 

[SHOtime2511]

valve adjustments are over rated.
change some gaskets,plugs,wires,rod bearings,replace some old crappy hoses ext.

 

[38SHO]

run it into a wall!

 

[Sho Amo]

i would say maintenance and bbb's with ported intake first.

 

[NovaSS]

Make it safe before you make it fast. Brakes work first, fix any worn steering parts, alignment , good tires.

Im going out on a limb on this one.

With starndard hot rods I always say start at the back. Get the rear end finished first. Theres no need to throw stuff into the engine if you can get the power to the ground.

So one of my first mods for a SHO would be a quaife or " that other traction device" from SHOnut. That and a mild clutch while its apart.