First Oil Change

[HoustonKid]

I changed the oil for the first time on my 2015. A couple of things I noticed.
1. Just a hair over 5 quarts came out.
2. Waited until the car said it was ready for a change, 9,700 miles, 4% life left. The oil was black. A dark black. No hint of brown clean oil left.
3. Noticed some oil on the motor mount, circled in red. This was prior to the oil change, so it was not from that. Wiped my finger across it and it looks like oil. The close up is after whipping my finger over it twice so it looks cleaner than it was.

Any thoughts on the oil that came out as far as how much and millage between changing and the oil on the motor mount?

 

[Calgary]

the sho calls for 6 quarts so im guessing it had burned some oil. is this the first change? i usually change my oil when it says 40 percent or below lol

 

[SHOdded]

Leaks are from either turbo oil line seals or valve cover gaskets in these vehicles. Check the firewall side spark plug boots for oil contamination (2013+), could be radiator side but more "common" on the 2010-12. No smell of oil at all?

 

[HoustonKid]

Yes, very first oil change. The filter held a bit but that added to the pan, only a hair over 5 quarts was drained. No oil smell at all. I will get under there this weekend and take a better look around. Its brand new so after I look some more, I am taking it to the dealership for them to have a look.

I will likely do the next change around 40% left as well. It was very dirty looking oil. No clean look left at all.

I did put back in a full 6 quarts.

 

[SHOdded]

Could have been underfilled from the factory, though with the oil on the MM ... Curious to know what you find out.

 

[brucelinc]

After 9,700 miles, using some oil would not be unusual - especially on a green engine. Finding oil on the motor mount would not be normal, though. Whatever it is, you have warranty. For what its worth, I would never go 9,700 on the first oil change or any other, for that matter.

 

[r1crusher]

The only real way to be certain on how often to change your oil to get it tested. People seem to be suck in the 50's-70's when it comes to oil change intervals. Full synthetic oils and better filter media have changed things IMO and there's no need to do oil changes at 3 or even 5k miles anymore. On my TBSS I wouldn't change the oil for 10k miles running Amsoil. I would however change the filter every 5k though. Turbo cars tend to contaminate the oil faster and I would probably not let it get past 7-8k miles, IMO.

Just my $.02.

 

[UtesFanRy]

I change mine every 5k. Period. Regardless of what the oil life computer says.

Say what you will about improved oil and filter media over the years. IMHO it's about the cheapest insurance for engine life out there.

 

[r1crusher]

You are right it might be the cheapest insurance. And if you want to spend the money doing unnecessary oil changes over the years of ownership, no one will stop you (and I'm certainly not criticizing you). So why not change it at 3k miles? If doing it at 5k is good 3k should be even better, right? Where do you draw the line? How do you know? I'm just curious how/why you chose your interval, again not bashing you.

It's a fact oils are better, filters are better and engine tolerances are better all contributing to longer service intervals.

I suggest taking an oil sample, sending it to Blackstone and see how your engine is doing. That is cheap insurance IMO.

 

[SHOnUup4]

Opinion only here...started changing the oil in our newly purchased 2011 SHO (28k on it when bought) at 3500 miles, then 4k. Oil looked great at those intervals. Went to 5k next change and could see a change in oil quality along with a slightly louder running motor. Just over 4k again right now and here the same increase in noise. Holding out to change at 5k to get a good comparison against the last one to be sent out and tested.

Will not be exceeding 4k again.

Rich

 

[rubydist]

When I drain oil, I always get out 1/2 to 1 quart less than what the fill amount is - the filter pleating captures some and won't drain it out, and the engine uses a little, no matter how tight it is. The quantity you drained out is not a problem.

I would not go more than 7500 miles unless running full synthetic oil, no matter what the oil life indicator says. If you are running Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic, then 7500 is fine for oci. I would not run "regular" oil in any EcoBoost, no matter how often I changed it...

 

[brucelinc]

I think the first oil change is very important. The car only came with synthetic blend - not full synthetic. Additionally, a new engine could contain manufacturing residue that is best removed with the first oil change. In spite of improvements in manufacturing, engines still have a break-in period. Performance and fuel economy will not be their best when an engine is brand new, in part due to additional friction. Lastly, when was the engine built and when was the original oil installed? Time is important, too - not just mileage.

 

[UtesFanRy]

You are right it might be the cheapest insurance. And if you want to spend the money doing unnecessary oil changes over the years of ownership, no one will stop you (and I'm certainly not criticizing you). So why not change it at 3k miles? If doing it at 5k is good 3k should be even better, right? Where do you draw the line? How do you know? I'm just curious how/why you chose your interval, again not bashing you.

It's a fact oils are better, filters are better and engine tolerances are better all contributing to longer service intervals.

I suggest taking an oil sample, sending it to Blackstone and see how your engine is doing. That is cheap insurance IMO.

I chose 5k instead of 3k for a couple of reasons. I talked with the technician and my service advisor and we all agreed that made the most sense. Seeing oil come out at 3k seems like the oil still has some life (a highly scientific method of course ). That and 5k is easier to remember for mileage intervals since I purchased it new.

I do agree on it's a fact that oils are much better, engine tolerances are better, and filters are better as well.

Servicing it @ 5k with the Motorcraft semi synthetic blend and using factory filters done at the dealer help me sleep well knowing my baby is under good care.

 

[joe raptor]

What's the best synthetic oil for a 2014 SHO engine ?

 

[r1crusher]

As stated by Utes, you can go with the mfgr recommended Motorcraft semi blend at a min. But really any good name brand full synthetic will do. I imagine most will say Mobil One (get the extended performance IMO), Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc. I think it's a matter of personal preference most times. Again, just use something good and do the maintenance within reason. It goes without saying for anything with an engine really.

 

[rubydist]

The Motorcraft full synthetic is outstanding oil, as well as those listed in the post above. I personally use "regular" Mobil 1 (not the extended life stuff) and I like to use the 0Wxx weight because the only way to get that viscosity range is with "real" synthetic oil, not the ultra-refined dyno stuff that also qualifies as synthetic for labeling purposes.

I have done numerous tests via Blackstone, and the 'regular' oil of today can run 5000 mile oil changes rather than 3000 and still be better than 3000 mile oil was 20 years ago. The Mobil 1 will last 10,000 miles in every daily driver than I have had, and I know that because I have had it tested, not because of how it looked when I drained it. The fact is that doing oil changes at 3000 miles today is wasting limited resources, not buying cheap insurance.

Engines nowadays are manufactured to much better (tighter) tolerances than engines of 20 years ago, and there is much less material worn away during the first 5000 miles of use. In fact, as far as I know all manufacturers no longer specify any kind of special 'break in' usage like they did years ago. In my recent experience, it seemed like it took nearly 10,000 miles for my new engine to "break in" because of how little wear there is in new engines now. Along those lines, I just am rebuilding a 5.0 from an Explorer that had 105,000 miles on it - the cylinder cross-hatching was still mostly intact and no ring ridge could be felt with my fingernail. A little hone to break the glaze was all that was needed on those bores. That is a far cry from the 351C that I rebuilt last year that had nearly .001" of ring ridge after less than 10,000 miles on a previous rebuild.

 

[SHOnUup4]

I'm on my last leg of the Mobil 1 full syn Extended performance oil for 5k interval. I have sample from the 5k previous that was the regular Mobile 1 full syn. Will be interesting to see if there is any difference in the analysis.

Rich

 

[r1crusher]

I would be extremely interested in your results, Rich. Please keep us posted.

 

[SHOnUup4]

I would be extremely interested in your results, Rich. Please keep us posted.

Will do...it's driving me crazy right now. At 4200 into this cycle and I can hear the slight change like last time...Could just be my OCD though...proof will be in the #'s

Rich

 

[brucelinc]

I have no doubt that some of us change oil sooner than necessary. I also wash my car, wax it, condition the leather, treat the weather stripping, vacuum the interior, replace the tires and do dozens of other maintenance items more often than absolutely necessary. I think that goes along with being a fussy enthusiast who really enjoys his car and likes taking care of it. When I change the oil & filter every 5000 miles, it is a good opportunity to look things over underneath - check for leaks, make sure clamps are tight and look for any other potential problems.

Doing all of this beyond what is necessary adds to my enjoyment of the car. Additionally, when I am ready to sell, a buyer gets a used car that looks and drives just as good or better than when it was new.