Erratic Idle Only When Cold (long)

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ckinart

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Hi all,

I've been experiencing trouble with my '94 MTX only when it's cold. About a week and a half ago (after only driving the car for about 2 minutes) I was idling waiting to make a left turn in traffic when suddenly the idle went up to about 1800 RPM on its own. When I proceeded to make my left turn, as soon as I applied throttle the engine nearly stalled, was extrememly sluggish and the CEL came on. I managed to make the turn and rolled to the side of the road. About 10 seconds later, the CEL went off and everything returned to normal. I checked the codes and only got a 118 in continuous memory (ECT sensor is/was high or open); passed both the KOEO and KOER tests, but of course at that point the engine was warm. Then, all last week with the colder weather, when I first start the car it runs very rough for the first 30 seconds or so, in a way I can only describe as a "bap bap bap..." instead of a smooth idle. Then the engine will run smoother, but the idle will be very erratic moving (on it's own) from 1100 up to 1900, stay there for a bit, then fall to 1300 and wave between there and 1500 for a bit, etc sometimes dropping off to nearly a stall, and then recovering. Any applied throttle nearly stalls it. If I leave it for about 10 to 15 minutes until the temp is in the "normal" on the gauge, everything is perfectly normal. I can drive it fine, and performance is as good as ever.

Now, I replaced my ECT sensor about 3 weeks ago because I was getting an intermittent CEL for 173 and 177 (rich rear and front banks). I have since switched out my IAC with no improvement (reset the idle afterwards), and tested the TPS which puts out about 0.96 V at idle and, from what I can tell, a linear response through the entire throttle range. I've shifted all of the wiring harnesses while this behaviour is exhibited looking for any change, but to no avail. I've cleaned the MAF, as well as unplugged it when the engine is cold, but the idle is still erratic.

The only ideas I have left are that some sensor is on the fritz and is only affected when cold, or there is a ground to the engine somewhere that is getting better contact when the engine warms up, or perhaps I have a vacuum leak that is closing up when the engine gets warm. But then there's that strange 118 code I got last week...

Anyone have any other thoughts or ideas that I could check out? I'm at a bit of a loss here. All I have to do is basically ignore the erratic idle until the car warms up, but needless to say I'd like to fix this problem ASAP.

By the way, I have not replaced my crank or cam sensors, but I'm not sure that's relevant (just thought I'd add that). That's all I can think of for now. Sorry for the long post...

Any suggestions or pointers would be greatly appreciated!

<small>[ January 11, 2004, 02:25 PM: Message edited by: ckinart ]</small>
 

ckinart

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Mr. Anonymous:
Test your fuel pressure.
Not that I'm doubting your suggestion, but can you explain to me how my fuel pressure could be causing the symptoms I've described? As far as I understand, the fuel pump is basically either on or off, and would be unlikely to fail in a fashion that would provide erratic flow. I can't see how the fuel pressure regulator could be causing this either. However, I've been proven wrong before, so feel free to show me up wink

I'll have to make a bit of an investment to buy a fuel pressure gauge, so I'd like to be sure that it's a legitimate possibility of causing my problems before I buy a gauge.

Thanx again for the suggestion!

On another note, the ECT sensor that I installed a few weeks ago was purchased at NAPA. The strange thing about it (although NAPA assured me it was the right part) was that the threaded portion of the sensor was plastic. I assumed that this sensor would be grounded to the block via the threaded portion (which is brass on the part that came off the car), so I'm not sure if this could be a possible source of my troubles. :confused:
 

SolidState

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have you bypassed your throttle body coolant lines?

recently, on a cold morning start up I got a CEL light but haven't check what it was yet as my hood release cable snapped on that same cold morning.

I am also having high idle problems which I don't think are vacuum leak related. I think my IAB is a little frozen as I have bypassed my throttle body coolant lines, which consequently bypasses the IAB.

To be honest, I am just dealing with it...I don't want to mess with the car anymore when it is cold out.

I went to get an ECT from CDN tire and it was plastic too....what was NAPA's price? C-tires was around 35...
 

ckinart

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SolidState:
have you bypassed your throttle body coolant lines?
No, I haven't bypassed my throttle body coolant lines.

SolidState:
I went to get an ECT from CDN tire and it was plastic too....what was NAPA's price? C-tires was around 35...
I think I paid around the same at NAPA.
 

masho95

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ckinart:
I have since switched out my IAC with no improvement (reset the idle afterwards), and tested the TPS which puts out about 0.96 V at idle and, from what I can tell, a linear response through the entire throttle range.
I'm assuming you swapped out the IAB valve and not the IAC solenoid. A weak or FP about to fail can send out an irregular amount of fluid. The same for a clogged fuel filter. I guess the same could be said about the FPR, but I would assume that the FPR is more of an all or nothing failure. I'd be more worried about the ECT problem especially after swapping in a new one. I would double check all the wiring in that circuit. But I think the most likely reason you are having a problem is that the Titans lost to the Patriots! :)
GO PATS!
 

ckinart

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masho95:
I'm assuming you swapped out the IAB valve and not the IAC solenoid. A weak or FP about to fail can send out an irregular amount of fluid. The same for a clogged fuel filter. I guess the same could be said about the FPR, but I would assume that the FPR is more of an all or nothing failure. I'd be more worried about the ECT problem especially after swapping in a new one. I would double check all the wiring in that circuit. But I think the most likely reason you are having a problem is that the Titans lost to the Patriots! :)
GO PATS!
Yes, I switched out the IAB valve. I installed a Walbro 190 lph fuel pump last spring along with a new fuel filter, so I'd like to think that's not the problem. I agree that the regulator would be an "all or nothing" item. I'm thinking of changing my ECT back to the old one just to see what happens. And thanx for the reminder on the Titans loss wink
 

ckinart

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Can anyone comment on whether or not my new ECT sensor could be causing an erratic idle? Does the PCM use input from the ECT to determine an idle speed? Considering the threaded portion of my new sensor is plastic versus the brass one that I removed, could this be a source of my troubles?

Any comments or further suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

masho95

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Pull the hose off the FPR and look for fuel in the line. As far as the ECT causing your erratic idle I think it might be possible. The ECT sensor tells the computer when the car has warmed up so that it can switch out of the closed loop mode. If there is a quick open back in forth in either the sensor or maybe the wiring maybe the computer is going back and forth between open and closed loop causing the weird idle. Just a thought...but I don't know how possible that is.
 

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