Engine upgrades - anything I'm missing?

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thenewguy

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Ill add in here as well lol
Im tuned by AJP, have his 93 and e30 tunes
I have the GH IC, PPE catted DPs, 170 t-stat, 3 bar map, AD mounts and XDI HPFP 35. on E30 i just car crack into 12s, have done a bunch of 13.0x and trapping 107-108 which is good for 12s all day but just cant lay down a good60 foot. Ive tried the tire pressure trick, different rev launches, just cant get it to go any quicker. This is full weight btw, im not a fan of removing things to get a faster time, i wanna run it as is as I would on the streets
 

BradM

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Ill add in here as well lol
Im tuned by AJP, have his 93 and e30 tunes
I have the GH IC, PPE catted DPs, 170 t-stat, 3 bar map, AD mounts and XDI HPFP 35. on E30 i just car crack into 12s, have done a bunch of 13.0x and trapping 107-108 which is good for 12s all day but just cant lay down a good60 foot. Ive tried the tire pressure trick, different rev launches, just cant get it to go any quicker. This is full weight btw, im not a fan of removing things to get a faster time, i wanna run it as is as I would on the streets
You and I have a very similar build but for the DPs and I have coil overs. What are your 60 foots?
 

BradM

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I've only gotten a 1.9x a handful of times, most are 2.0
When I did my build I watched videos of stock SHO's launching on a prepped surface and saw that the weight transfer (suspension) was lifting the front too much. I run with BC Racing BR Series Coilovers, single adjustable, with the front valves closed and the rears at 50%. I leave traction control on and launch around 2200rpm with 25psi tire pressure (lower if the track is in bad shape). In my logs I can see the traction control does trigger most of the time but for less than 2 seconds. I get 60 foots in the high 1.6's to low 1.7's all the time. The final drives in my PI are the same as a PP SHO. Do you have a PP?
 

76FoMoCo

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Ill add in here as well lol
Im tuned by AJP, have his 93 and e30 tunes
I have the GH IC, PPE catted DPs, 170 t-stat, 3 bar map, AD mounts and XDI HPFP 35. on E30 i just car crack into 12s, have done a bunch of 13.0x and trapping 107-108 which is good for 12s all day but just cant lay down a good60 foot. Ive tried the tire pressure trick, different rev launches, just cant get it to go any quicker. This is full weight btw, im not a fan of removing things to get a faster time, i wanna run it as is as I would on the streets
With what you have your car should be 12.4 -12.5 are you at a high DA? If you AIT2 is above 150* this will **** your 60'. I run my tires at 30 psi found this to be what works to keep wheel spin down but I am running MT street SS summers. Also I found 2200 rpm works for me but you can't brake boost too long.
 

thenewguy

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When I did my build I watched videos of stock SHO's launching on a prepped surface and saw that the weight transfer (suspension) was lifting the front too much. I run with BC Racing BR Series Coilovers, single adjustable, with the front valves closed and the rears at 50%. I leave traction control on and launch around 2200rpm with 25psi tire pressure (lower if the track is in bad shape). In my logs I can see the traction control does trigger most of the time but for less than 2 seconds. I get 60 foots in the high 1.6's to low 1.7's all the time. The final drives in my PI are the same as a PP SHO. Do you have a PP?
Im lowered on H&R's and honestly, don't think I would need coilovers since they handle the weight transfer pretty nicely. Trust me, ive tried it all, different psi front and back, from 24 to 30, TCS on and off, different RPM launches, 2200 like you mentioned seems to be the nice spot but ive tried 2500 and also just launching without any break boost, just nothing has worked for me, as in that 12 sec run is within an arms reach but no cigar. I did once get a 12.99 on dragy lol, was the most exciting day of my 3 years of ownership but that was it, and funny that exact run, dragy told me i did a 2.04 60 ft. I trapped 107.9 on that run so Its there but the car just does not want to move initially. 1/8th was a 8.4 @ 85 on that run. BTW I have the Flex, not the SHO so definitely a lot heavier to move vs you guys but i should definitely be hitting 12s consistently with my setup regardless. Im pretty sure our final drives are the same as the PP SHOs.
With what you have your car should be 12.4 -12.5 are you at a high DA? If you AIT2 is above 150* this will **** your 60'. I run my tires at 30 psi found this to be what works to keep wheel spin down but I am running MT street SS summers. Also I found 2200 rpm works for me but you can't brake boost too long.
I get mineshaft DA, the run i mentioned where I did a 12.99, DA was 25 and we go down to -500 once its colder so DA is not an issue whatsoever. Read my post above, ive tried it all as far as PSI and launches on different revs go. I have Michelin PS4S so grip is no issue for me and ive never had wheelspin or wheel hop since i have AD mounts as well. Just moving this pig (Flex) is killing my times. I seem to have hit a wall after my initial 91 tune I got from Brad couple years back. That initial tune got me a 13.5 so I was so estatic, that getting into 12s would be a cake walk once i have DPs and intercooler and a 93 tune. Full bolt on now (other than turbos) running e30 and im still struggling to hit that 12 consistently. Brad has looked at all my logs and sees no issues at all, just dont know why its struggling. I might try GH next summer and see if there's anything different he can do
 

The_Auto_Tech

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@The_Auto_Tech

What year is the Flex?
10-12 or 13 and up?


Things I've done to my 11...
EPP intake and hot pipes
3 Bar
GH turbos, TC, IC
PPE down pipes
Magnaflow exhaust
extra vibrant resonators replacing the rear cat
DW in-tank
Livernois HP pump (xdi wasn't out yet)
MSD coils - colder plugs
Sho Trans cooler mounted behind upper grille
shift kit
Megan coil overs
Whiteline rear sway bar
AEM watermeth single shot
tank fits in the bumper, below the driver side headlight


What's required to get the SHO trans cooler to fit? Would it just be better to mount an aftermarket trans cooler? I have the factory oil cooler setup from the tow package so I'm curious what it looks like with the trans cooler. Also, who makes the shift kit?
 

The_Auto_Tech

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Ordered the Gearhead intercooler. Most likely I'm going to wait to order the XDI-35 and DW pumps until closer to spring until after I get all my tuning stuff sorted out and make sure there's no other things that need addressed with the Flex before doing more mods, especially since I ordered the Whiteline rear sway bar as well.
 

kryptto

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Ordered the Gearhead intercooler. Most likely I'm going to wait to order the XDI-35 and DW pumps until closer to spring until after I get all my tuning stuff sorted out and make sure there's no other things that need addressed with the Flex before doing more mods, especially since I ordered the Whiteline rear sway bar as well.
Same
 

Mahu24

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What's required to get the SHO trans cooler to fit? Would it just be better to mount an aftermarket trans cooler? I have the factory oil cooler setup from the tow package so I'm curious what it looks like with the trans cooler. Also, who makes the shift kit?
Not worth fitting the SHO cooler. Just go with aftermarket. You'll be around the same price for a much better cooling unit
 

Autox4fun

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What kind of setup are you using? I just assumed there was maybe some special fittings the stock one came with.
I agree, just grab an aftermarket unit. You will be “T-ing” into the factory cooler lines that go to the top on the a/c condenser.
 

The_Auto_Tech

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I agree, just grab an aftermarket unit. You will be “T-ing” into the factory cooler lines that go to the top on the a/c condenser.

Assuming you just T into the factory rubber hoses and use barb fittings? From what I understand it's a pain to fit the factory SHO one. I might do the trans cooler during the Gearhead intercooler install.
 

The_Auto_Tech

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The factory one is teed off from the lines going to the rad. I have a PP so I removed my factory one and put one off a 7.3 powerstroke on. Just what I had laying around lol

Assuming it's just splicing some some barbed T-fittings into the rubber area of the hoses, running the rubber hoses to a cooler, and mounting the cooler? Probably could just pick one up from O'Reilly's or something that would work well, similar to this:

1705284082013
 

BradM

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The factory cooler mounts on the bottom of the crash bar, out of the way of the rest of the cooling pack. I don't think that one will fit there but you probably can strap it to the A/C condenser.
 

The_Auto_Tech

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The factory cooler mounts on the bottom of the crash bar, out of the way of the rest of the cooling pack. I don't think that one will fit there but you probably can strap it to the A/C condenser.

Yes, that was the plan is to mount it to the A/C condenser.
 

Mahu24

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Assuming it's just splicing some some barbed T-fittings into the rubber area of the hoses, running the rubber hoses to a cooler, and mounting the cooler? Probably could just pick one up from O'Reilly's or something that would work well, similar to this:

View attachment 89441
Yes essentially. I would not use those zip mounts though
 

The_Auto_Tech

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Personally, I used the SHO cooler (on my SHO). I had to trim a bracket to fit with the ACC Sensor. There is a write up on here. As far as fitting the Flex, here is a quick write up I saw and it looks pretty easy:

https://steemit.com/autorepair/@randr10/auxiliary-transmission-cooler-mod-2011-ford-flex-ecoboost

That seems like a fair amount of a job to make it work on a Flex. I feel like you'd be better off to just buy an aftermarket one and make your own brackets to mount it to the crash support instead of trying to hack the OEM one in.
 

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