engine trans removal

[midospike]

Opinions of the easiest way to pull the trans and engine out? The engine is blown trans is fine. Pull both or just engine? Which way is the fastest and easiest? thanks. The car is a 91.

 

[91 Plus]

I say pull them out together.Through the top of the car!It only took us a few hours to do it that way,and it was our first time doing it!

 

[Shoaz]

Is this an ATX or MTX? If an MTX I'd think it would be easiest to pull the engine and trans together out the top. If an ATX I'm not quite as sure which would be better.

 

[Yamaha V6]

It's an MTX because it's a 91.

Pull it from the top is what I do. Remove the blower tubing & intake, I've dropped in the engine & trans combo before with the Vortech bracketry intact as well, though it gives you more room to maneuver if you remove it. If you're careful, you don't need to remove the brake fluid hose running from the reservoir to the ABS valving. This is a minor point, but if you pull from the top, you save the cost of an alignment.

Good luck getting it back on the road.

 

[Dr.Evil]

its a 91 = MTX

Take them both out the top, much eaiser than trying to unbolt/install the tranny when it is in the bay.

 

[midospike]

thanks guys. I got the blowner off and have the wiring. Taking off the exhaust and mounts tomorrow. Any other advice would be great. What to look out for.. etc.

 

[Dr.Evil]

so that s/c finally took its toll on the motor, huh? Just to be safe, mark with masking tape and a sharpie every connection you undo so you know where it does when you drop it back in.


"This is a minor point, but if you pull from the top, you save the cost of an alignment."

Don't the halfshafts have to be removed? And doesn't this require disasembly of the front suspension? I would have thought it would need to be aligned after doing this...

 

[midospike]

Well.. I had the boost turned way up and it was about time. The trans is holding up really well. I have a strong rebuild engine with new bearings and forge rods and pistons. After the install looking to sell the car. Have to pay for my new toy!!! Took pictures of the engine. I should have no problem putting everything back together thumb

<small>[ February 13, 2004, 02:57 AM: Message edited by: midospike ]</small>

 

[SHOfun 93]

I need to swap an automatic tranny from one car to another...what kind of labor costs am I looking at to do this? I have the bulletproof tranny in the 93 wasting away and plan on swapping it to the 95.

<small>[ February 13, 2004, 05:11 AM: Message edited by: SHOfun 93 ]</small>

 

[Chris Benvie]

Marc, good luck with it.

Did you get my PM?

 

[Yamaha V6]

Dr.Evil:
"This is a minor point, but if you pull from the top, you save the cost of an alignment."

Don't the halfshafts have to be removed? And doesn't this require disasembly of the front suspension? I would have thought it would need to be aligned after doing this...

The engine subframe / steering rack remains intact. The tie rod ends are not removed, and the strut towers are left intact. Popping the lower control arm out of the spindle doesn't move things around really.

 

[munkee]

I just finished pulling an engine trans combo this evening. My second this week. It is definitely easier to take them out the top together. (MTX of course) Here's a few of my tips if you didn't already know these. Make sure you have the seats, moonroof windows etc. where you want them before you start. Remove the 21mm nuts that hold the motor mounts down on the subframe instead of unbolting the mount from the engine brackets. Remove the two 13mm block to tranny bolts at the bottom of the tranny while you are down there disconnecting the shift linkage, then you can set the combo on the ground and easily unbolt and remove the trans. All of the electrical connectors only fit one other connector so you can't mix them up. I pull the radiator so I don't poke a hole in it with the motor mount on the way up, just four 10mm bolts. Sometimes I pull the battery tray for a little more clearance on the other side for the brake lines but sometimes it's so rusted on it isn't worth the hassle. Also be careful not to bump the heater core lines at the firewall. They don't take any abuse and it takes more time to change the heater core than pull the motor. Hope this helps some and everything goes smoothly.

<small>[ February 14, 2004, 12:10 AM: Message edited by: munkee ]</small>

 

[midospike]

Everything is going well. Got everything diconnected and drained in two hours. Taking the engine out this weekend. Thanks for the help.