Engine top end ping......like from cams.

[Tecchie]

Okay, here goes, I know I need to do alot of work, but this is what's going on..

I took my intake off earlier this evening to put a piece of bypass hose in that I fabricated from some other elbows/clamps/etc.. and put everything back together....

I liberally sprayed this heavy duty degreaser called something like b-16 or something like that, (at autozone for a few dollars, white can with red on it) into my intake (still need to soak it in a bucket)... started her up and was running fine and put fresh coolant/distilled water in...

ran around town a bit and noticed when the engine was HOT (needle in temp gauge around the middle) there was a click or "ping" from the drivers side front of the engine... just around the edge next to the coil pack... not sure what it is, but I let the car sit and cool and started it up and no noise...

I found a donor car in the wrecking yard that is a 93ATX (mine being a 95ATX) and was wondering if I could use the parts off it as a direct swap...?

I was going to slowly part it out until I had the complete engine/tranny so I had spare parts to drop in.. The car was rear-ended and some minor front end dammage, but engine and trans are in great-un-dammaged shape...

Since it's a 93 and mine is a 95, are there any minor or significant differences in the engines if they're both a 3.2L?

I was just going to take the heads off it and put them in my machine.. etc...

the wrecked one has either 113k or 130k on the odo...

Any suggestions?


BTW, I took off my IAC valve and cleaned it (electronic side is still good) but I think it's still sticking when the engine is hot... (e.g. gutless until I put my foot into it a little)

as for the donor, someone already took the seats, speakers, wheels, and door panels for the most part... (very nice black interior) and there is dynomat in the door panels.. LOL

Anyways, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..


Was emailing mike for awhile and no responses for almost two months...

Hope he is okay...

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

All parts from the 93 will swap directly into your engine, providing it's the 3.2 liter engine, which it is.

...as for the top end ping, it wasn't doing this before? Did you remove any spark plug wires? Have you checked your codes?

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm <---- instructions

 

[mattfoo83]

b-12 chemtool great stuff!

 

[Tecchie]

Wasn't doing this before.... spark plug wires were not moved at all/disconnected, etc..

And it's only the one side, the engine still runs smooth...

Time to take a trip back to the wrecking yard... (whenever I get some cash.............) EDIT:going to test the computer today will tell you what I find... but at the time if the noise there was no CEL...

 

[Mr Anonymous]

It's probably just the front timing chain tensioner.

 

[SHOtime2511]

It's probably just the front timing chain tensioner.

agreed.
90% of top end knocking/clicking is due to cam tensioners

 

[Tecchie]

I understand all that, but it's at the BACK of the engine, not the front (where timing belt, cam chain, etc.. is)

If you are looking at the engine standing in front of the car, the sound is ***ONLY*** on the right hand side closest to you by the coilpack.....

 

[Tecchie]

These are the codes I got so far...

116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
(this one, I overfilled my coolant reservoir a little so I can get all the air pockets out of my cooling system, so I think that's why that's showing a code..)

121 (O,R,M) Throttle Position (TP) sensor out of range - TPS
(I JUST replaced this thinking it was my idleing problem, turned out to be my IAC Valve that I cleaned)(also not sure if I did the "KOER (Key On Engine Running)" part of it right....

172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control

225 (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS

411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) - ISC

412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC


before I cleared the codes from a shop awhile back, it threw my O2's (because I Think when I hooked everything back up after taking my intake off for the first time I forgot the MAF connector...... but now it shows nothing for my O2's or my fuel pump relay, nor one of the banks running a little rich/lean..... weird...however I did spray that B-12 down the runners in the head (where the air and fuel gets injected, boy did that clear alot of junk) but I think it might have cleared some gunk off theO2's and stuff, so like I said no other O2 codes, nor any bank running lean or rich...

Question... do you think it would be a good idea to "oil" my Idle Air Control Valve with some WD-40? cause it only acts like it sticks when it's hot...?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

I understand all that, but it's at the BACK of the engine, not the front (where timing belt, cam chain, etc.. is)

If you are looking at the engine standing in front of the car, the sound is ***ONLY*** on the right hand side closest to you by the coilpack.....

Umm, yeah, that's where the timing chains and tensioners are -- in the rear of the motor. See those there humps in the valve covers?

 

[Tecchie]

"""""If you are looking at the engine standing in front of the car, the sound is ***ONLY*** on the right hand side closest to you by the coilpack.....
Umm, yeah, that's where the timing chains and tensioners are -- in the rear of the motor. See those there humps in the valve covers? """""


Oh, gotcha, so what do I do about it and why does it only make noise when the engine is HOT?

BTW, on a side note, anyone know where to find a stock thermostat replacement? I've seen the part stores replacement but it only has the one little hole thinggie on it instead of the two that are on my original one.....

 

[pjtoledo]

"""""If you are looking at the engine standing in front of the car, the sound is ***ONLY*** on the right hand side closest to you by the coilpack.....
Umm, yeah, that's where the timing chains and tensioners are -- in the rear of the motor. See those there humps in the valve covers? """""


Oh, gotcha, so what do I do about it and why does it only make noise when the engine is HOT?

BTW, on a side note, anyone know where to find a stock thermostat replacement? I've seen the part stores replacement but it only has the one little hole thinggie on it instead of the two that are on my original one.....

because the tensioner part is a hydraulic cylinder with a spring inside it. when the oil gets hot it flows out the spray hole faster and the tensioner cylinder looses some of its pressure, then the chain flops around as the cam lobes transition from going "up the lobe" to "coming off the lobe" , that causes the slack in the chains to switch from top to bottom and makes some noise.

put a pressure gauge on the oil port to see what you have, then get back to us

 

[Devin]

Here's a visual aid:

 

[Tecchie]

Okay, haven't had the time or chance to take my cover off (is the seal reusable?) but on that SHO that was in the scrap yard, I got the intake (and everything on it 'cept the IAC Valve) and intake supports, speedo, and a few other odds and ends, took the valve cover off that one to see the condition and it looks like it was well maintained at least on the front of the engine (right side?) Valve shims looked new... but 130k on odo...

Good thing is they only want $25 a piece for the heads, and Autozone here wants $865 ea.

what I want to know is if it's slapping around when the oil is hot and all that will an oil change help fix that? (picked up some 10w30 (or 40, can't remember, been runnign too much) for both my Tauri...good thing they both take the same filter... (other is 96 Taurus G)

since the oil is hot and is thinner and flowing faster through the tensioner, will thicker oil and fresh stuff help? It's LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG overdue for a change... previous owner filled it up before he gave it to me..and I added a bottle of stopleak stuff that slowly swells the seals (got a bit of bottom end leaking, but no MAJOR seals...

Going to run a can of SeaFoam through her... Any recommendations if the oil change doesn't fix the problem? what am I looking at here.?


On a side note, the day I found the wrecked sho omgsho:red, '93) everything was on the engine, even the IAC, but no money that day, so I went back a few days later and someone had hacked through the front support to get the radiator and fans out (needed those fans too as mine are shaking everywhere) and totally cut out the AC intercooler....

Anyways, I also got GREAT spark plug wires for $3, tested with my meter and WELL BELOW 5kohms per foot...

Gonna try to get the heads if someone else doesn't scavenge them.......................

I do not have a oil pressure gauge, still in process of collecting all the tools I need for this beast, going to have a complete set just for SHOs..

 

[Tecchie]

Ran Seafoam through her, and changed oil afterwords and the clicking stopped. engine doesn't to a little high rev for a second after first starting either... I used 10W30 Castrol.

 

[Tecchie]

ONE MORE THING...........

Throwing codes left and right.. but I Think it's from the idle air control valve...

sometimes it gets gutless until I push it to about 3/4 throttle... but O2's are going I am sure of it, but throwing codes for rich and lean... but something weird.......

Got a code for "incorrect gear ratio" and it's an ATX...... dunno what that means so I had the guy clear all the codes.... now it's showing a
172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control


so.. I am going to attempt to replace the O2's, and the IAC valve...... stupid electronics... there was some 9 codes stored.... had them cleared though..:woo-hoo:


ONE MORE THING, only when the engine is hot does the IAC valve seem to act up... e.g. gutless...DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS??? I need someone local to me at least in WASHINGTON STATE!!!