Engine Temp?

[SHO_ROLLER]

Hi,
Quick question here. Is it normal for my '90 SHO to run in the blue part of the temp gauge. I noticed this while coming home tonight. Keep in mind, it is about 50 degrees outside and I was doing about 70mph.

Anthony burn_out

 

[ghostrider]

No it shouldn't be that low on the temp gauge. You might have a t-stat that is stuck open. Which would not let your engine get to normal operating temps. You should probably check that out. Did you have heat? How old is you t-stat? My 91 doesn't have a grill so the radiator is wide open, and it was about 35* or so tonight. Cruising down the high at 80, and my temp gauge sat right above the O in normal.

<small>[ November 01, 2002, 04:17 AM: Message edited by: ghostrider ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

The normal failure mode for the Motorcraft thermostat is to not fully close (much better than to stick closed). This allows a trickle of flow to pass and reach the radiator for heat transfer. As efficient as the SHO engine is thermally, this is enough heat loss to prevent the coolant temperature from reaching the normal operating range in cooler weather.

 

[SHO_ROLLER]

Thanks guys,
I guess I'll have Ford change the T-stat when I have the clutch done.

Anthony burn_out

 

[projectSHO89]

Anthony,

Changing a thermostat is one of the easier DIY projects.

You might want to check out the procedure at www.shotimes.com You can do it yourself for the cost of the part (about 20 bucks at Ford) in about 30 minutes.

Steve

 

[SHO_ROLLER]

Thanks Steve, I'll check it out.

Anthony burn_out

 

[Bizzy]

Just outta curiosity what is the normal spot that most everyone's cars run at on the gauge? While on the highway or at least moving along at about 50+ my needle is always pointing right at the "A" in normal. But while in slower moving traffic I'm at the "O", then the fan kicks in.

I know the t-stat was replace on this car just recently, with the Rev B one. Just wanted to get an Idea if this was right. My SLO runs dead senter the normal range and only changes when stopped.

 

[Rob94]

I run about the same spread on temp gauge.

 

[Blast7]

Could it be the temp sensor guys? I was wondering because my gauge does not get above the L but if I am idling for a while then I do hear my fan kick on.

 

[Bizzy]

I had replaced the sender on my 94 GL (RIP) and my 95 SE. I haven't do it to my SHO yet, but i know it's like a $5-$8 part. And is really easy to replace on an SLO.

It's worth a shot. Rob thanks for the info.

 

[Jr's Sho]

Before I replaced my temp. sender last week, it usually stayed between the R and M when the car was fully warm and in stop and go traffic. But after replacing it, it will now get to the same spot but in traffic it will get up to the letter O until the fan kicks on and then it will drop. Never done that before. I replaced it for no real reason, it only cost $2.99. But it was a pain for me to get to it. There was a lot of stuff in the way and I didn't feel like moving any of it so it took me a while.

 

[doucebag]

I have had a problem with the temp staying in the blue or just above. Even in the middle of the summer, driving hard. The only time that the temperature would rise would be driving in town or if the car was at en idle for a period of time.

1991 plus
black
removed air-silencer cone
225/50zr16

 

[SolidState]

I have the same symptoms. It has gotten really cold out lately, and the car takes a while to warm up. I left it idle for 15min and the temp guage got to A. Once I started moving, it dropped to the bottom. I had heat, but the guage puzzled me.

I immediately thought it was the T-stat, but the tranny blew before I could investigate squint

 

[jcostantino]

What's the proper temperature in degrees to be running? I measured about 145 at the radiator with my thermometer in the fill neck at idle after fully warming the car up.

Jeff

 

[shojuan]

The answer to that question isn't as simple as a single number. Temperature will vary quite a bit depending on where you measure from. Remember, the heat flows into the coolant from the heads (and to a lesser extent from the block) and it flows out of the system in the radiator. A typical temperature for the coolant as it's moving past the heads is 210-215 F. The coolant will be at a bit lower temperature on the driver's side of the radiator and lower still on the passengers side (since the radiator has scrubbed off heat at this point. If the thermostat is at full open then you'll read a higher temperature at the filler neck than if the thermostat is partially open (faster moving fluid isn't exposed to the heat transfer surfaces of the radiator as long as slower moving fluid.)

Somebody with a properly operating cooling system can give you a number that they've measured. I've never bothered to take a reading at my SHO's filler neck. Keep in mind that there can be a lot of variation possible, there are just a lot of variables at work in the entire cooling system. The the most important thing is that the heads are cooled properly.

Rick

 

[rendyx]

Blast7:
Could it be the temp sensor guys? I was wondering because my gauge does not get above the L but if I am idling for a while then I do hear my fan kick on.

Make sure you don't have the A/C or defrost on (defrost at this time of year, in lovely NY! ). Those will turn on the fan. I had the same problem, and the car never warmed up one night. I later found that I must have had defrost on.

 

[cRaZySHO.]

On my Autometer water temp gauge, which I have at the back of the block, I usually read 205*-220*. This is at the drain plug right below the head. It's a little lower than the oil pressure sender. This is probably the hottest spot in the cooling system, that is accessible through a plug or sensor.

 

[SHOZ123]

The hottest spot in the cooling system would be at the thermostat. If I were to add a additional coolant temp gauge I would move the OEM sender to the block and the new gauge sender to the OEM location.