Engine finally out, found some problems. (long)

[munkee]

It took me 22 hours total, but I finally got the motor and tranny out of my 90 mtx. I found a few interesting things during the procedure and also have a few questions.

First is the EGR valve. The throttle cable was routed right beside it and it consequently melted a little bit of it. Now I know why my gas pedal would stick under wot! Can the egr valve be removed without any elec. or vac. mods?

Second, all of the wire harness protective casing is extremely brittle and breaks up with even the slightest movements. Is there any other kind of casing one could use that wouldn't dry out, like silicone or something?

Third, there is a lot of carbon buildup in the intake and in the cylinders. I understand the carbon buildup in the intake is mostly from the breather tube. Is the carbon in the cylinders most likely from the intake or another source, and does the breather tube have to go to the intake?

Fourth, some of the cams have circles of different colors on the lobes. Is that normal or does it indicate increased wear? I don't know what the shims look like yet although all but one is within spec.

Fifth, the power steering fluid was very black, sticky, and bad smelling. Is that just from old fluid or is that caused by components going bad?

I am currently cleaning parts and fixing what I can afford to until I get a tranny. I am doing a much needed 60K (car has had only 1 of needed 3) and rerouting some of the wiring to its original location. Whoever put this car back together several years ago didn't pay much attention and I have had to splice several rubbed through wires. Also, what kind of paint do you guys use when painting the intake or any other engine parts?
I will probably have more questions as I continue to work, and I appreciate everyones help.

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"It's not just the speed, it's how well you handle it."

[This message has been edited by munkee (edited 02-14-2002).]

 

[AL]

for the egr, i think all you have to do is block off the intake and the exhaust parts of it.

i don't think the breather tube has to go to the intake.
you can have carbon from idling the car a lot. running rich doesn't help either.

 

[AutoXSHO]

I don't buy the theory that the breather tube is the cause of the gunk in the intake. If it's sludgy gunk, sort of the color of a Dortmunder, it's probably reversion.

The carbon in the combustion chamber is a sure sign of a high mileage engine or one that wasn't revved out a lot. Check the rod bearings too, I bet they are very worn. Sounds like the motor has seen a lot of low RPM action.

John V

 

[munkee]

AutoXSHO, I am not sure what reversion is exactly. Could you please explain that a little more? The carbon on the intake is pretty oily, it starts in the throttle body and completely covers everything up to the valve openings. There is just a small clean spot under each injector, but even the top of the valves are coated pretty good. I can only speak for the last 5,000 miles not being low rev miles and I don't know what the a\f ratio is. Never thought about that.

 

[noSHO]

Originally posted by AutoXSHO:

The carbon in the combustion chamber is a sure sign of a high mileage engine or one that wasn't revved out a lot. Check the rod bearings too, I bet they are very worn. Sounds like the motor has seen a lot of low RPM action.

Sounds like mine! I took 2 hours to clean out the carbon of lower intake ports or whatever you call them during the 60k. Also not surprised by the low pressure light..

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-Dave
green/black 92

 

[Mikeys_Taurus]

First is the EGR valve. The throttle cable was routed right beside it and it consequently melted a little bit of it. Now I know why my gas pedal would stick under wot! Can the egr valve be removed without any elec. or vac. mods?

Actually I think you also have to plug the vacuum line and re-program the PCM to tell it that the EGR is not there. I could be wrong though.


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[Tomuza]

Hey munkee, I have 2 motor/trannies(full front end) to pull in the next couple of weeks for a complete swap out. I'm planning to drop as much stuff in-tact as possible. Could you give me some ideas of what all to look for when I start out on this project !! Thanks, Tomuza d:0)

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Tomuza/Greg V.
[email protected]
90 sho titainium. no mods
90 SHO Red ~Donor~
83 Honda V65 Magna ~Junkyard Dawg~
84 V65 Magna parts
85 V65 Magna ~sick~ d:0(

[This message has been edited by Tomuza (edited 02-16-2002).]

 

[munkee]

Tomuza, what years are you pulling from? It might be easier to drop the subframe with everything attached if your putting it back into another car. I had to roll my car out of the shop, otherwise I would have just pulled the tranny. I found that the combined Haynes\Chiltons manuals are next to useless for help in pulling the sho motor.

What I would basically do now if I had to do it over would be, pull the battery and battery holder and then the airbox and intake. Next, remove everything screwed down above the radiator, then pull the radiator disconnecting and labeling hoses and wires as you go. I also put all the bolts and such in freezer bags so I can mark their location on the bag. Disconnect the shift linkage from under the car, then unbolt the manifolds from the y-pipe. The manuals say to discharge and remove the A/C compressor but I had plenty of room just wiring it up next to the condensor and removing the front manifold. I couldn't get the drive axles out the way the book said so i just inched the motor out until I could slide them out by hand.

The only real help I could probably offer is to triple check to make sure all hoses and wires are disconnected as you lift the motor out. Also be sure to watch out for the brake lines going to the abs controls. I think thats all I have for now but if you had any more questions I would be glad to answer them if I can.

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"It's not just the speed, it's how well you handle it."

 

[drivinhard]

If you dump the EGR you'll need a 49 state MTX PCM (B9B, B9B1, LOS, or X2J). Otherwise you'll get a constant CE light as the CA PCM won't be able to find the system.

You can plug the hole in the intake and exhaust manifold, but the correct and clean way to do it would be get a 49 state rear surge tank, rear exhaust manifold, and toss the vaccum lines and plug them at the tree. I dumped the EGR set up on my 92 for a 49 state system a couple yrs ago. if you have a sniffer test in your area, you'll find you'll get better numbers using the EGR.

As for the cams, yes circles on the lobe tips are a sign of wear(ing). A good cam won't show these.

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White 92
SR71SHO - racer '89

 

[Tomuza]

munkee, I'm pulling from 90 sho to 90 sho wanting to drop everything out of the bottom of both ... subframe motor trans everything I can in one piece and lift the body up/off that... I'll have to play it as it comes. thanks for the advice. Got to get some sleep to night back in the morning !!

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Tomuza/Greg V.
[email protected]
90 SHO titainium. no mods
90 SHO Red ~fixer~
90 SHO Red ~Donor~
83 Honda V65 Magna ~Junkyard Dawg~
84 V65 Magna parts
85 V65 Magna ~sickly~

 

[munkee]

Tomuza, there was another thread somewhere that talked about unbolting the struts from the towers, then disconnecting the wires, hoses and exhaust, then just lifting the body off. I couldn't find the thread again for reference but that sounded like an easier way to do it. Good luck!

Drivinhard, that was exactly what I was curious about. I am currently waiting to hear from the junkyard about a parts swap. I was wondering if it would affect the engine to just cap everything off and leave the pcm. I was planning on completely redoing the car next winter/spring when I will have 4-6 grand to work with. Having to fix something now and not do it "right" really bugs me. If I can't just swap parts at the junkyard, I will either put the valve back on or cap it off as long as the ce light staying on is the only negative aspect for the time being. Thanks again for the help!

By the way, would silicone hose melt if it were used to protect the wiring in the intake valley?

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"It's not just the speed, it's how well you handle it."

"Fixing cars is fun, until you need the car that your fixing."

[This message has been edited by munkee (edited 02-17-2002).]