Eaton M90 supercharger Question

[CplPflummUSMC]

After having studied and searched this forum for info i have come to the conculsion that FI is the way to go. NOS is easier, but there is a consant cost. NA seems to be very very costy compared to the WHP that you can get (Area 91=258WHP not insulting just stateing what I have read). So haveing looked around I have settled on going with a SC. The reason for this is that I have a CNC shop with about a $1.5mil tool setup which should be able to fab a bracket easier than I can get someone to do all the welding for a TC. Looking at SC I see that some SHOs run the Eaton which can be had for less than $300 in many cases. Thought about Vortech or Powerdyne, but the cheapest that I have seen is abou $900 for just the headunit.

So having stated all that my goals are 300-325WHP with boost and about 25ish extra horsepower coming from bolts on such as Y-pipe, UDP and full intake/head work. So that would give me 325-350WHP. The car would remain a DD so reliabilty would be important. Also my budget is between $1500-$2000. I am not looking to get all new parts so I will save where applicable. Is this reasonable? Can it be done? Or am I just setting myself up for failure? Thanks again for all the advice. This is a great forum full of great info. Semper Fi!

Edit: I want to mount the Eaton where the A/C is currently located. I have no intention of building a custom intake so I am going to mount it on the bottom of the engine somewhere. Thanks again.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Brian...AREA 91 makes 250 WHP N/A

On Nitrous, He's making 330 FWHP.

-Sam

 

[rubydist]

You are going to have a large struggle to get more than 300 hp from any engine that has a M90 on it - the blower simply is not large enough.

 

[Off Road SHO]

What he said. Been there done that and only got 280 to the ground in my buggy. Go with a M-112 or M122 if you cant afford a screw type like a Whipple or Lysolm. With a 112 cubic inch blower you wont have to turn it as fast and that will help keep the blower in its efficiency range.

If you're going to bolt it to the side of the block like I did, you will lose your AC and stock front header.

It still will be a lot of welding.

Tom

 

[SinisterSHO]

good luck on running boost on 2k

 

[SuperHO]

boost can be run for $2k rather easily, so long as you have decent fabrication skills and can source a good junkyard turbo or blower. the most expensive part of boosting a car is tuning and dyno time.

 

[Off Road SHO]

boost can be run for $2k rather easily, so long as you have decent fabrication skills and can source a good junkyard turbo or blower. the most expensive part of boosting a car is tuning and dyno time.

That be the truth.

Tom

 

[Jh8990]

I hope you fixed the tranny leak before considering any of this. and also have you shipped my coolant bottle out? you never answered my text from the other day.

 

[somedude_001]

250whp on that blower would be a absolute blast. That can almost be done on the stock fuel system. it will not be a rocket but the fun to drive and reliability will be there

 

[CplPflummUSMC]

Thanks for all the good info. So is 300WHP a better goal with the help of some bolt ons? Or is the 280 range the best I can hope to see. I know this is not the best setup, but price and most importantly reliabilty are my chief concerns. I have read about the big boosted SHO and the drivtrain is the weak link. I do not nor can afford to constanly be changening out MTX parts. Also if i am going to drop 5-6K in blowing a car there are to many Mustangs and camaros on craigslist that have already done this for that price and will be faster due to there better drivetrain. I really like the SHO it suites my current needs I just want a little more grunt. Lastly the M112 or other styles ever end up on a production car that might be able to source one from? That was real reason for going the eaton route. they are very easy and cheap to source and seem to be able to meet my goals. thanks again for all the info you have all been great. Semper FI!

 

[shomethe$$$]

I agree with Tom, you always want more and the M90 just cannot support big numbers, I believe you can get 300fwhp with the M90, if you want a M112 with better packaging a Jaguar XJR or Range Rover is the one to go with.

I think you can do it for $2k but your fab skills better be perfect, I've made $1000 in mistakes, buying wrong components, breaking some, some were not strong enough, exhaust routing errors, there's always something you gotta buy twice or do over.

 

[CplPflummUSMC]

I'm cool with making some mistakes and I understand that my budget will inevitabely be pushed, but you got to start with a goal. I just can't see spending 2k on a used mustang kit which will have stuff that I can't even use. I understand the want to keep pushing the boost and numbers, but honestly reliability is more important to me. Plus I already have 21 moving vehicle citations in a 9yr driving career so adding more to it with the temptation of a super fast car is a bad idea. Plus if i want more there is always NOS. thanks for all the help. If anyone has anymore to add I would love to hear it. Semper Fi!

 

[Sho Amo]

Tickets come just as easily with 220hp.

with boost comes the urge to have more power. Trust me the SHO is the worst vehicle you could use the get hp per $. I have over 10k into mine and it barely runs 13s and looks like a hack job (to my standards). Nitrous is much easier on a dd with reliability.

Just get a 100 shot.

 

[SHOtime2511]

Kenne Bell.
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[rubydist]

...the M112 or other styles ever end up on a production car that might be able to source one from?...

Lightning and Mustang each had M112 from the factory at some point. A Whipple would make a lot less heat, so your project would be easier - less effort in intercooling and tuning, imho.

 

[AREA 91]

After having studied and searched this forum for info i have come to the conculsion that FI is the way to go. NOS is easier, but there is a consant cost. NA seems to be very very costy compared to the WHP that you can get (Area 91=258WHP not insulting just stateing what I have read). So haveing looked around I have settled on going with a SC. The reason for this is that I have a CNC shop with about a $1.5mil tool setup which should be able to fab a bracket easier than I can get someone to do all the welding for a TC. Looking at SC I see that some SHOs run the Eaton which can be had for less than $300 in many cases. Thought about Vortech or Powerdyne, but the cheapest that I have seen is abou $900 for just the headunit.

So having stated all that my goals are 300-325WHP with boost and about 25ish extra horsepower coming from bolts on such as Y-pipe, UDP and full intake/head work. So that would give me 325-350WHP. The car would remain a DD so reliabilty would be important. Also my budget is between $1500-$2000. I am not looking to get all new parts so I will save where applicable. Is this reasonable? Can it be done? Or am I just setting myself up for failure? Thanks again for all the advice. This is a great forum full of great info. Semper Fi!

Edit: I want to mount the Eaton where the A/C is currently located. I have no intention of building a custom intake so I am going to mount it on the bottom of the engine somewhere. Thanks again.

Brian...AREA 91 makes 250 WHP N/A

On Nitrous, He's making 330 FWHP.

-Sam

257 Wheel Horse Power 214 Wheel Torque without a tune!
336 WHP 318 WTQ without a tune!

 

[Jh8990]

sorry for thread jacking here but Area 91 (Brian) could you please respond to my e-mails or ***. I have been trying to get in contact with you for sometime now.

 

[Brett]

257 Wheel Horse Power 214 Wheel Torque without a tune!
336 WHP 318 WTQ without a tune!

why no tune yet?

 

[CplPflummUSMC]

Quick question, If I went with a M-112 what would the difference in WHP be compared to the M-90? 20-30 more HP or would it just be more efficent? are the deminsions the same/similar? I have seen them going for $400 so they would be a viable option and still be inside my budget?

 

[Off Road SHO]

The m112 is quite a bit bigger and I believe weighs 50% more than the M-90 from Ford ( the M90 in GM cars are a bit different). The bigger the gulp per revolution of the blower the slower you have to spin it to get a certain amount of air. Forget about boost psi. Boost is a description of how restrictive the path is to the flow of air. Concern yourself with air volume.

The SHO motor gulps about 100 cu inches of air per revolution of the crank. If you turned a 112 at a 1:1 ratio it would be almost the same as the engine struggling to suck in atmospheric air. That is why they turn the blowers (positive displacement Roots style, not screw type) at a 2:1 ratio. When engaged the blower will then move 224 cubic inches of air for every 100 cubic inches that the engine needs. Actually the 3.0 uses 91 cu in and the 3.2 uses 97.5 cu inches, but that's not important in this discussion.

To figure out the ratio; divide the circumference of the driving pulley by the circumference of the driven pulley on the blower. On The Other Woman I just used the accessory belt and the stock crank dampener pulley with the stock 6 rib belt.

My opinion: use an M-90 with a 2.78" diameter driven pulley, run an air-to-air intercooler and methanol injection. Try and get a 94-95 SuperCoupe blower because the lobes are teflon coated. Use two or more 1" bypass valves and make sure their outlets are pointed in the direction of the air flow like a "Y" and not a straight "T".

Tom