Doing rear struts

[etc1006]

Okay, I think I found my noise in the right rear... I guess its the infamous lead weight on top of the mount. I got the strut out and saw this ring moving side to side. I picked it up and out of the mount. I looked at the rest of the mount so far and all I can see is some very small cracks in the rubber on the underside around where the strut shaft goes through. I'm guessing it'll be fine to reuse. JUst ditch the lead insulator, right? TIA!

 

[wood_e]

Uh, Get a new mount... they're inexpensive and I doubt you want to trar it down again if they're clunking

 

[etc1006]

Well, see thats the thing, it seems it was the lead thing doing the clunking. Other than that it looks fine, with the exception of the fine cracks on the bottom. I'm about togo back out and take it apart, I'll snap a pic or 2. Money is tight as I'm still job hunting... I already have to do the sway bar link. Bugger snapped off, I figured it would...

 

[wood_e]

Hey, whatever you think, but I bought Monroe quickstruts and my clunking in the rear was gone on my sold SHO. New mounts are nice man. Mine were REALLY flexible and the new ones were nice and firm.

 

[etc1006]

Here's a couple of pics. One, the white grease pencil mark is where the fine crack is up against the step to the rest of the mount. It doesnt go all the way through. The next is the lead ring. And the third is a question. Is the metal sleeve that the shaft goes into supposed to be bonded to the rubber or is supposed to come out?

Cracks:

Lead:

Mount sleeve:

 

[etc1006]

I couldn't swing the nut for 4 quick struts. Beside I got the fronts for ~45 (pair) and the rears for ~40 (pair) shipped. How much flex is too much in the mounts? I found some on Ebay cheap if needed... Going back outside now. Gonna take apart the pass side (the first one I got off with the lead loose) and check the mount better. The mount pic with the sleeve out of it is the driver side.

 

[MorpheusGPR]

Hey what tool are you using to unscrew the big nut at the top of the strut to disassemble the entire package?

 

[etc1006]

Weill I think I answered my question on the mount sleeve.... I got the pass side apart and the sleev is about half way still bonded to the rubber... Damn, there goes the rest of the $ from selling some T-Bird parts this weekend... Morph, I'm just using my impact gun. I sprayed it with PB Blaster. Then I loosened it almost all the way, I left about 1 full nut on the shaft while it still had tension on it. Then put on the spring compressors (Harbor Freight $12 on sale). I did have to use the pipe wrench on the shaft to hold one of them though.... Oh yeah, are the bellows available from AZ or the like?

 

[etc1006]

Anyone on the mount opinion (did I diagnose correctly) and bellows? Can't seem to find the bellows...

 

[MorpheusGPR]

Oh ok so sounds like my rotates because I compressed the spring already, so I just need to take the spring compressors off then I can take the big nut off? Stop before it comes all the way free or the spring will fly off or?

 

[etc1006]

YES, don't let it come off! Just break it with the tension on it. LIke I said I also had to use a pipe wrench on one because it didn't want to come the rest of the way after I put the compressors on... Now I'm waiting for the new mounts...

 

[johndallara]

rear suspension re-do

looks from the photos like your rear mounts were the source of the clunking. the metal sleeve inside the mounts should not be loose or come out.

certainly you should replace the spring and strut while you are there if you can swing the $$ for it, as this job is a bit of a PITA. After you compress the spring, you should be able to get the OEM nut back on the top strut thread and tighten it so that the whole package -- mount/lead weight/washers/strut/spring -- are tight.

best of luck, by using good replacement parts and your own skill, this is a worthwhile fix and will improve the ride performance and feel alot.

JD
89 GL/SC (retired)
95 ATX
95 MTX (on the road again !)

 

[etc1006]

New mounts came today. I already had the struts. Springs seem to be in good shape... I'll put it all back together tomorrow. BTW, the person who designed the strut towers and rear deck should be shot! For the life of me I don't know how I'm gonna get the one nut back on each side... Even with the gearwrench it was a PITA to get off!

 

[MorpheusGPR]

You mean the small 3 nuts in the triangle? Its a PITA to rech in there, getting them tight will be worse. No way to really torque them because I torque wrench is not going to fit.

Anyone know torque specs on the large but in the middle - strut to strut mount

 

[etc1006]

All done! Man, the car is a different ride now! NO more noises and tight! Sweet, I had to take it for a spirited ride through some backroads I usually ride the bike on Friday eve when I finished. Now all I need to do is save for the alignment and new tires. IIRC the torque for the nut is ~45 or so. I just ran it down with my impact. The nut was a nylon lock style anyway.

 

[MorpheusGPR]

Ok I got the strut to expand out, that was easy, for some reason I just did not understand it sooner.

I still can't get the old unit apart? When I turn the nut on the top the entire piston of the strut turns with it.

When I put the new units together do I need a special tool? So far just using a socket has not worked very well. (see above)

 

[khanartist]

I still can't get the old unit apart? When I turn the nut on the top the entire piston of the strut turns with it.

Three ways I know of.

1. On some struts, you use an open/boxed end wrench for the big bolt and hold the top of the shaft with a smaller wrench, because it has a hex head.

2. Zip it off with a impact gun

3. Vice grips really tight on the strut shaft (under the boot) below the mount.

 

[MorpheusGPR]

Ok, I tried using an air rachet, maybe the impact gun would work better?

No room for a box end wrench to fit with the larger mount in the way (and a large metal disk?)

Will using clamps underneath damage the strut? Reason I ask is I do not want to damage the new one when I put them together.

Thanks.

 

[CerberuS]

air gun (powerfull with alot of air pressure) with a regular box (not the thick black ones)

 

[MorpheusGPR]

Ok I will try that then. I will stick a normal socket on it and hit it with the air gun. When putting the new units together do you do it the same way? If so is there anyway to torque them down to make sure they are good to go? I will use some loctite on them as well.