Dead battery

[troverman]

We have a 2014 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost (Taurus SHO) with 28k miles on it. Drove it two days ago, all was fine. Car started briskly, no issues whatsoever all day. It sat in the driveway yesterday. This morning it would not start. Attempted a remote start...lights flashed...no start...weak horn chirp. Manual start attempt results in starter clicking. Not enough power to turn on headlights. Disconnected negative battery, left off for 5 minutes. Check voltage...12V showing. Reconnected negative...there was a light spark...still basically 12V showing. Car still would not start.

What is odd is that this car is a 2014 and I would think it should have the original battery, (we bought it CPO last spring with 23k miles) but it is already a new Motorcraft 650CCA replacement battery. Now it needs another new battery? Currently on my battery charger. Any common problems that can cause this?

 

[SHOdded]

What is the date of manufacture for the battery. MC batteries can and do crap out early sometimes. Rare that there is an actual alternator issue. Do you drive enough to keep the battery charged? Any aftermarket electronics that might be creating a parasitic draw? Any error messages regarding the shifter? Did you install the current battery, and if do, was the PCM trained to recognize it?

 

[troverman]

What is the date of manufacture for the battery. MC batteries can and do crap out early sometimes. Rare that there is an actual alternator issue. Do you drive enough to keep the battery charged? Any aftermarket electronics that might be creating a parasitic draw? Any error messages regarding the shifter? Did you install the current battery, and if do, was the PCM trained to recognize it?

I don't see a manufacture date on the battery - I did look. There is a serial # that says 112814 but if that stood for the date of 11/28/2014 it couldn't be original as the car would be a 2015 model with a late November build date. I know it is not original because the batteries that come from the factory are black and don't have big "Motocraft" red and yellow stickers advertising
36 month free replacement" and "100 month pro-rated warranty" and "Keep your receipt for warranty claim" all over the battery. The factory originals are basically black and say FoMoCo. I've never had a battery go dead without warning...usually the car starts to turn over a little slower, etc. The car is driven more than enough to be charged...in fact, it was just at the Lincoln dealership last week for replacing the AWD PTU seal which was leaking. We just drove it back (one hour drive) on Monday. Then it was also driven Tuesday quite a bit but more locally. Sat all day Wednesday. Wouldn't start this AM. No aftermarket electronics or modifications of any kind. Nothing plugged into 12v outlets. No error messages or warnings.

 

[SHOdded]

All this just greatly enhances the likelihood of a bad battery, possibly due to a bad cell. I would have it replaced under warranty, get an upgrade to the Tough Max 850 CCA battery if at all possible. The 650s barely keep up with the demands of the SHO and I am sure the same with the MKS.

 

[krewat]

Put a volt meter on it while it's still in the car. Try to start it. See how far down the voltage drops. If it hardly moves, there's an electrical problem.

If it drops to < 10 volts or so, it's toast.

 

[tdnews]

I had a 2015 Explorer battery last 2.5 years. It sounds typical for this platform unfortunately.

Mine did the same thing you are describing. Although I charged to 13.5 v, tried to start (failed), and then measured something below 12 if I remember correctly.

 

[Hebes10]

I have had two motorcraft batteries crap out on my SHO before the three year warranty. Both times showed 12 volts, but the Amps were too low.

 

[troverman]

Ok, so after charging the battery for four hours, no go. I was able to jump start it with our Excursion. I guess the battery is junk...from one day to the next. I’ll try to get the upgrade battery.

 

[Lostneye]

All this just greatly enhances the likelihood of a bad battery, possibly due to a bad cell. I would have it replaced under warranty, get an upgrade to the Tough Max 850 CCA battery if at all possible. The 650s barely keep up with the demands of the SHO and I am sure the same with the MKS.

I agree 650 is too small for these cars with all the electronics. I recently replaced the original battery in my 2013 and got a Bosch 750 AGM. FYI the parts store chains usually have coupons online that should work for a battery and then you can pick up in the store.

 

[troverman]

Well, the good news is that the CPO warranty is going to cover a new battery - it will be identical to the one in it now. I can't imagine how this car needs more than 650CCA.

 

[Majestic]

I've been getting the "system off to save battery" message for the last couple of months when I turn off the ignition, usually within about 15-20 seconds. I understand this means the battery is at or below 40% charged? The car always starts up and runs just fine. The battery is an Optima Red-Top, about 1 year old. Does this happen to anyone else?

 

[EcoBoostSHO]

It could be a bad battery of course. I recently replaced my battery and found the same message kept occurring. I would charge it up and then after a few weeks it would come back on. It turns out the battery management system (BMS) needed to be reset which I did with Forscan. The message hasn't returned since!

 

[Lostneye]

I've been getting the "system off to save battery" message for the last couple of months when I turn off the ignition, usually within about 15-20 seconds. I understand this means the battery is at or below 40% charged? The car always starts up and runs just fine. The battery is an Optima Red-Top, about 1 year old. Does this happen to anyone else?

The car will shut down to try and prevent you from being stranded if it thinks the battery is getting to low. I don't know what its looking for but as EcoboostSHO said the BMS needs to be reset when the battery is replaced. It keeps track of the age and condition of the battery and affects how the car charges as well, it could shorten the life of a new battery if not reset. The dealer can do it or it's a programmed option in forscan.

I would have your battery tested as it may be bad.

 

[Majestic]

So.... about Forscan. Is it free, and how do I connect it to my laptop. Via the OBD2 port?

 

[troverman]

So.... about Forscan. Is it free, and how do I connect it to my laptop. Via the OBD2 port?

You need to buy an OBDII reader that connects to a laptop. OBDIILink MX Bluetooth is the one that will work for programming, although some folks have had luck with a USB or WiFi version. The unit I mentioned is $80. The FORScan software is free; you will need to get a free extended license once the software is installed to be able to do programming.

It's a great piece of software that gives you nearly the capability of Ford's IDS computer at the dealership.

 

[Majestic]

You need to buy an OBDII reader that connects to a laptop. OBDIILink MX Bluetooth is the one that will work for programming, although some folks have had luck with a USB or WiFi version. The unit I mentioned is $80. The FORScan software is free; you will need to get a free extended license once the software is installed to be able to do programming.

It's a great piece of software that gives you nearly the capability of Ford's IDS computer at the dealership.

Thanks. I just ordered the unit you referenced.

 

[SHOdded]

To be clear, you need to be able to run Forscan for Windows. That is the only OS so far where the full-fledged version is available. Dealer charges 1 hr or less labor to reset the BMS if you want to go that route.

I have found the veepeak bt adapter to be nice for odd jobs. But the MX bt is head and shoulders above IMHO.

 

[Majestic]

To be clear, you need to be able to run Forscan for Windows. That is the only OS so far where the full-fledged version is available. Dealer charges 1 hr or less labor to reset the BMS if you want to go that route.

I have found the veepeak bt adapter to be nice for odd jobs. But the MX bt is head and shoulders above IMHO.

Got it. I have a small laptop that I use exclusively for tuning. I have LMS' tuner studio on it, MS for my son's SVO and will add Forscan to it for the SHO.

 

[maj13616501]

All this just greatly enhances the likelihood of a bad battery, possibly due to a bad cell. I would have it replaced under warranty, get an upgrade to the Tough Max 850 CCA battery if at all possible. The 650s barely keep up with the demands of the SHO and I am sure the same with the MKS.

I'm with SHOdded...i have 13 sho...had same symptoms...was the battery..from Ford....replaced it..no issues to date

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[Lostneye]

You need to buy an OBDII reader that connects to a laptop. OBDIILink MX Bluetooth is the one that will work for programming, although some folks have had luck with a USB or WiFi version. The unit I mentioned is $80. The FORScan software is free; you will need to get a free extended license once the software is installed to be able to do programming.

It's a great piece of software that gives you nearly the capability of Ford's IDS computer at the dealership.

I have the OBDLink WiFi one since Bluetooth ones dont work with my iPhone. Works great with the iphone but not with my laptop. I bought a $30 wired one with a switch to read more modules off amazon and it works fine with windows 10 and forscan.