CV Axle Question

[dpsutphin]

When I removed the driver's side wheel today to replace the brake pads and rotors, there was an excessive amount of greasy dirt on most everything (it was not on the passenger side). I know this usually means a broken or leaking CV axle boot. But the boot looks fine, very clean and no sign of a leak anywhere.

Upon closer examination, there is a thing that looks like a ring gear of some type right next to the hub that turns with the hub. It does not appear to be connected to anything, but I assume it is or it wouldn't be there. The one on the passenger side is tight and solid. The one on the driver's side is loose, and is broken in one spot.

There has been no clicking noises, or anything else, except a noise that sounded like a brake wear indicator (chirping noise) This noise was there whether or not the car was under power, that is it did not change whether coasting, or accelerating. That's why I started the brake pad / rotor change.
The driver's side rotor was very grooved. I assumed this is where the noise came from. Now I am not so sure.

Do I need a new CV axle, too?

 

[St Louis SHO]

Is the abs light on? It sounds to me like the ABS ring came off. If so, then it is easier to replace the axle.

 

[Devon]

the thing that looks like a ring gear of some type is part of your ABS censor
you will see that there is a magnetic censor on a wire that comes of of the stearing nuckle, that is the other part of the ABS censor the reasone that thing on your cv axle looks like a gear is because. the censor on the stearing nuckle is a tiny metal detector and every time one of the teeth on that ring gear looking thing passes that censor the ABS computer knows that that weel is spining and then the computer checks the other censors just like that one to see if they are all going the same speed when you aply the brakes. if all wheals are going the same speed when braking than the ABS does nothing but if they are not all going the same speed when brakeing than you must be sliding so then the ABS begins to work!

any way that explains what the thing that looks like a ring gear of some type is.

as for all the grees I would just look closer at the boot.

that thing that looks like a ring gear of some type is not supose to be loose and you said there was an excessive amount of greasy dirt on most everything this realy sounds like a the boot is bad to me.

by the way there is a cv axle on the driver side too. it just is shorter.

 

[Devon]

ABS ring being loose could Cause (chirping noise) any time the axle is spening, because there is little clearens between the ABS ring and the censor so if it is loose it could be hiting it or scraping.

 

[Devon]

Do you need a new CV axle, too?

maybe not maybe you can just get a new boot and some greese from Auto zone or some thing

I think new cv axles are are about $70 from Auto zone

 

[dpsutphin]

Thanks guys. Now that I know what that thing is, a whole lot of questions are now answered.

Up until about a year ago, I let a mechanic who I thought knew what he was doing take care of fixing stuff. Acting on his advice a couple of years ago, when the ABS light was on, I let him disconnect the ABS system (he said it needed a new computer). He said the car would stop fine, which it has, but I just wouldn't have ABS brakes. Guess he never bothered to check the ring.

He also replaced the brake pads, and the CV boot last time it was done. I suspect he just didn't clean up the mess from the leaky one he replaced. When I finally got the rotor off today, it obviously had never been turned, as he told me it was.

Where can I find the procedure on how to replace the ring? Then I can reconnect the ABS and see if it was just the ring. And I will do everything myself from now on.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Procedures for removing/replacing the front and rear ABS Tone Ring can be found in any [year] vehicle Service Manual for the Gen I/II Ford Taurus. I do not have direct access to a Gen III Service Manual tonight, and I don't recall if the Gen III procedures are applicable/the same as the Gen I/II procedures.


You can also find the tone tine removal/replacement procedure on AutoZone's website for free. Once you've entered your vehicle, year, and engine type:

(1995 Ford Taurus 6 cylinders 182 Y 3.0L EFI DHOC SHO), search the left column and click on the link:

Repair Info​

This will expand a drop-down menu, and you want to click on the first link in the left column, titled:

Vehicle Repair Guides​

This will bring-up 10 vehicle-specific categories, under the title:

"Repair Guide
Ford Taurus/Sable 1986-1995 Repair Information"
_____________________________________________
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....

Covers all U.S. and Canadian models of Ford
Taurus, SHP [sic] and Mercury Sable

• Body & Trim
• Brakes
• Chassis Electrical
• Drive Train
• Driveability & Emissions Controls
• Engine & Engine Overhaul
• Engine Electrical
• Fuel System
• Routine Maintenance
• Suspension & Steering

Click on the Brakes link.

In the right column, there will be another multi-category list on the various components within the brake system, to include ABS:

• Brake Operating System
• Front Disc Brakes
• Rear Drum Brakes
• Rear Disc Brakes
• Parking Brake
• Anti-lock Brake System
• Specification Charts

Click on the Anti-lock Brake System link, which will create a drop-down sub-menu list.

From that list, click on the Front Speed Indicator Ring link, which will bring-up the procedure and tools required. While not exactly verbatum, virtually all of the text and illustrations are taken directly from the Ford/Helms Taurus Vehicle Service Manual.


As you can see, this is not something you can easily do in your driveway. The procedure requires removal of the half-shaft assembly and disassembly of the outer CV joint - hence the recommendation to simply replace the half-shaft assembly.

I would venture to guess the reason your mechanic did not attempt to replace the tone ring, is that he simply did not see it was broken. I've seen several in which the break was nothing more than a hair-line crack. Given the amount of old CV joint grease you described, the grooves in the ring where the break usually occurs would have been covered in dirt, oil, and/or grease, thus he most likely would not have seen the break without having thoroughly cleaned all the knuckle/hub/brake components.