Crank sensor

[silversho89]

Im replacing the crank sensor on the 91. Im down to almost having the sensor out. My question is do i have to remove the timing belt gear on the crank to get the sensor off? It seems like it is caught on that ring behind the gear. Also, what does the sensor have to be gapped at and where is the best spot to gap it at?

I know that for some this is a relatively easy job because they have done this a time or two, but im a ****** to replacing the sensor and am taking my time and keeping my parts, bolts, etc. organized.

Thanks,

Rob

 

[Dr. Tweak]

If I recall correctly, can you get the sensor out without removing the timing belt sprocket. You need to rotate the engine (put the crank bolt in and turn it) until the sensor is between two vanes, then you can get it out. I can't remember off the top of my head what the gap is, but it's on my website http://www.shophoenixproject.com/ just look in the front 60k section.

You gap it between the metal vane and the cps. You'll see what I mean, there's really only one place you can gap it. And to be honest, the gap doesn't need to be that precise.

-Doc

 

[autobahnsho]

It's easier to get the sensor itself off if you remove the gear and ring. But then you have to put it all back together, and that gear coming off is why people have to cuss and complain and talk about the "starter bump".

Make sure that when you go to unscrew that thing that you take your time and strength to it- it's got soft screws, and takes a lot of work to get them out without stripping them.

If you DO strip them (one of mine came right out, the other...)
You can get a chisel and tap on the screw until you can use a flat-head screwdriver on it.
Use STAINLESS STEEL screws, since they are not as magnetic. The sensor basically picks up a magnetic pulse as the fins on that ring go by.

 

[SHO_Diehard]

If you're that far into the engine, you might want to change the front main seal anyway. I have a leaking front main on my '89 because I didn't do that.

When it's time to put the harmonic balancer back on, make sure the crank snout is clean, no corrosion or anything. Then warm the harmonic balancer in the oven. Don't get it hot, use the "warm" setting, much less than 200 deg, for about 2-3 hours to get it completely warmed up. You can also cool the crank snout with ice in a baggy (SDPATT suggestion I saw).

The differential expansion will cause the balancer to slide right on. Make sure you have the keyway lined up with the key, then go for it. You'll have about 10-15 seconds IIRC after the metals contact each other, so be quick about it. It's possible to fully seat the balancer like this.

As many have stated if you've searched this topic, don't use a hammer.