Crank Answer Needed

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DougLee25

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For some reason the alternator and power steering belts have been riding up on the idler pulleys. After closer inspection, I believe the crank pulley has slid out slightly. I pulled out the crank bolt, and the crank is about a 1/4" recessed in the pulley. My question is should the pulley be flush with the crank snout, or should the crank be slightly recessed? Could someone post a picture if they have it as well? Thanks for your time.

Doug
 

rangerj

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DougLee25,

Was the crank bolt loose when you pulled it?
The crank bolt and washer should position the crank pulley when the bolt is torqued.

Before torquing the crank pulley you should align the accessory belts and adjust the crank pulley as necessary, so the pulleys are all in alignment with the crank pulley.

The "by the book" way to install the crank pulley(Vibratin Damper) is to install it with special tool (Crank Damper Replacer) number T89P-6701-B ( or the equivalent). I think the referrence is to Rotunda tools, but could be OTC.

You local Ford dealership my allow you to borrow this special tool if you think you need it. I know they have rarely, if ever, used it! They probably won't even be able to locate it. rangerj

PS, sorry I don't have any pictures. Again, the important thing is for the pulley grooves to lign up so the belts will track straight.

If you think about it, the only pulley you can "adjust" is the crank pulley. While you are in there you should see how your timing belt sprocket is in referrence to the other sprockets. Is it tracking straight, and in alignment? Something just doesn't sound right. Call it a "gut" reaction. shrug
 

CheckerSHO

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My 90 was doing this, and i reached under it and removed the crank pully bolt by hand :eek: Turns out i didnt get it tight enough about a year ago when i did the timing belt...and it started walking off. No crank cancer by some miracle tho :cool: I just tightened it down and continued on :D
 

sdpatt

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After working on a couple of crank damper's in the last week, I recall the end of the crankshaft being recessed into the outer face of the damper by about 2mm. Those were both 3.2L engines, but the damper's outer face must extend beyond the end of the crankshaft or the crank bolt will not properly pull the damper against the timing belt pulley.
 

DougLee25

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Thanks for everyone's response. Unfortunately, the board went down right after I posted this, and I wasn't able to read any of the posts. I went out in the sub 30 degree weather and pulled off the crank pulley in the dark. There was a slight coating of rust (nothing major)that I got rid of by taking a fine grit sandpaper to. I did this to the inside of the pulley and the crank itself. I then coated both parts with some grease and popped the pulley as far as I could with my hands. I then took a piece of wood and a hammer and gave it a slight tap. What do you know? The pulley went on all the way. Apparently the last time I had timing covers off (last January) I did not torque the crank bolt sufficiently. This time I made sure I did by putting a 3 foot cheater bar on it. My belt problem is now solved. beer Damn was it cold though... and I even missed the Eagles game doh

Moral of the story: Torque your crank bolt to the proper spec to avoid belt problems down the line.

Doug
 

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