CPS replace on the road-minimum work?

[NoSlo]

My car gave two hints of problems, no start, but the next crank it started right up, I was thinking cam sensor, so eventually it should always start. Driving today it just conked out dead. Fuel pump runs. No KOER codes before, no codes now. I did 60k including front seal but didn't replace CPS then. Wondering what the minimum I have to do to replace CPS on the side of the road, must the harmonic bal pulley be pulled, etc? Any way to be 100 percent sure before starting? (Taking the bus to get a DIS now). Argh.

 

[NoSlo]

Note, pretty sure that it had tach of around 300rpm trying to start. Edit: big duh, of course the pulley has to come off to take off the timing cover, unless I were to just break it off and get a new one later.

 

[NoSlo]

Went back to car, wasn't a DIS or CCRM as I swapped those. Fuel pressure is 40psi. Any other car killers that would make it die this way? Camshaft sensor should not have such symptoms, I'm thinking. I would swap back my old computer too if I hadn't tossed it, just to eliminate anything else before doing a CPS service on the city street where the car is stuck...

 

[NoSlo]

oops, double post... I guess I can note that I checked EEC-Iv ground wires and straps too.

 

[NoSlo]

All done! Was CPS, thankfully the harmonic balancer pulley came right off (last time was first since I had car and was crazy stuck on. ATX, so every other pulley has to come off too..

 

[SHOdded]

Glad you got the ATX back on the road!