Cooling Fan wired to my EATC?

[Team Dave]

So this is an issue that I've had since I bought the car, but it never bugged me too much so I hadn't fixed it. When I first bought the car almost a year and a half ago, it would take a very long time to warm up. It seemed like the fan was constantly on, but I didn't worry a whole lot because better it be always on than always off, right? Besides, I was already planning to give the car a full restoration, so I knew it's be fixed eventually.

Basically, whenever the car is running, the EATC will randomly turn itself on. I noticed that it does this right as the cooling fan turns on, and it's most persistant when the car is still warming up. Once I have been driving around, it'll do it less and less. Rarely, if ever, will it happen when I am driving at a constant speed (IE freeway). I am assuming the car has a low and high speed fan setting, so maybe my cooling fan's low setting is somehow powered off my EATC? Or vice versa? Though that wouldn't make much sense... but then again neither does this issue.

I replaced the radiator last summer and I noticed my fan was hard wired into my engine bay. I figured this was the cause of my problem, especially when we did my old 91's radiator, and it's fan DID have a harness to unplug it.

Any ideas on this? It seems as if the fan is getting power from a different spot than it normally should, which is tripping out my EATC. I do have a new aftermarket electric fan, which may make this fix a lot easier since I'd have to wire it in anyway.

FWIW, my entire cooling system is new. Water Pump, thermostat, dual core radiator, hoses, cap, overflow tank... All I have left to do is the fan, to finish that aspect of the car up. EATC is a new hard button unit too, if that makes a difference.

 

[sidewinder06]

Team Dave, I see no replies to your problem and I have a similar situation.

Car was running great after 120K maint & minor mods (Y-Pipe, air box baffle removed, Cobra MAF etc.). I also converted AC from R12 to R134A. The rad cooling fan motor was noisy, so I replaced w/ after market 6 mo later (OEM not avail). It now tends to run hot and the fan runs, but seems to be controlled by the AC comp cycle switch on the filter/drier (kicks on and off continuously). It does not stay on when key is turned off and the gage shows hot (which I understand it should).
One other detail, I put batt chrg on after leaving lites on & it pulled about 10 to 12 amps for several hrs. I suspect I may have damage to one of the inputs or outputs on the ECC or the ECC itself. Ford mechanic said the ICM was bad, but it is good (Blue Streak tested and returned).

I have checked everything on the drawings I can think of (very confusing, c182 feeds the fan on one drawing and c192 on another. Have 5,3 VDC at the coolant temp sensor and replaced the sensor (the old one was OK it seems). Supposed to have 5 and 20 ohms resist hot and cold respectively. My meter does not read that, but they both read the same (0.223) on the bench @ 75 degrees F. I am going to try to block all airflow leaks around the new shroud and relocate the wiring harness to help improve the airflow to see if this will help (the OEM shroud fit much better).
If anyone has experience to help w/ this problem, please post.
My Thanks, sidewinder06 (new to ShoForum)
:thankyou: