Coolant Temp. Sensor R/R

[362104]

I picked up the $15 part from NAPA and as a precaution checked out the Chilton manual from the library (again) Someday I will buy one

That thing is really buried. Any tips or tricks to get it out. Like is draining coolant necessary or removing the manifiold. I'm sure somebody has done one.

I guess I would like to know when and if the car will "overheat"

Thanks All

 

[TimboSHO]

Wow, $15 at Napa? I got it at Advanced auto for $5. I know on an ATX it is a little more challenging to get out, but on my MTX I didn't remove anything else or drain the coolant. I think a little coolant came out, but not much. Just unplug the wire and you can get a deep socket on it (18 or 19mm i believe). You may have to use extensions. Just remember to use thread tape on the sensor so that it seals correctly.

 

[SHOtime2511]

witch one are you talking about,the sender unit for the gauge?
or the ECT the one the EEC uses to determine coolant temp?

 

[362104]

Yo............

I am referring to the sensor that reglulates the temp. to the inst. cluster that reads NORMAL and the needle travels vertically. CTS or Coolant Temp. Sensor

S1W in the hiz house

 

[hawkeye18]

That would be the sensor in the front of the engine. I call it the Idiot sensor, because it powers the Idiot gage in the gage cluster. If it's the one with a threaded stud at the end, that's the right one. If it has a two-wire connector at the end, it's the actual temp sensor for the PCM.

In any case, you will need to partially drain the coolant system. I've found that getting one of those fluid suckers from AAP that's in the grease gun section and sticking it down the radiator cap tube until it doesn't pull fluid any more works quite well, and it's very not messy at all. Do it until you can squeeze the upper radiator hose and not hear any coolant squishing around.

Then, take the airbox hose to the TB off along with the upper half of the airbox, then the lower half. Remove the upper radiator hose from the inlet tube and the radiator. Remove the inlet tube from the block, I believe it's two 10mm bolts. This will give you pretty good access to the idiot gage. It's just forward of the thermostat. you will see one wire going to it; pull it off. I can't remember what size the sensor is, but make sure you put teflon tape on the new sensor before you put it in.

I would recommend you replace the thermostat while you're down there; they go bad often and it's too cheap to ignore. If it doesn't have a jiggle valve in it, make sure you drill a 1/32" hole in the perimeter of it and install it with that hole at the top.

 

[362104]

Nice right up! Well appreciated. So......when standing in front of the motor it's really the the back. From what I remember the top of the airbox is not in the way????

 

[hawkeye18]

If you're standing at the front of the car, the idiot gage sensor is on your side of the thermostat, and the actual coolant temp gage is on the far side of the thermostat, it's a bitch to get to. The airbox is most definitely in the way; you might be able to get at it with the airbox in place but it's so easy to remove the airbox - three 10mm bolts - that it's stupid not to. You may not have to remove the radiator hose, but I was replacing my thermostat at the same time so I removed it out of necessity. It does make seeing it easier.

 

[hawkeye18]

Hey, I just thought of something. If you're replacing the idiot gage sender because your coolant needle never gets out of the 'cold' area, there is a 99% chance that it has nothing to do with the sender. The Thermostat on these cars is notorious for quickly failing and allowing coolant flow even when the engine is cold, thus never letting it warm up. If your coolant gage stays at the bottom all the time, REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT! it's not a bit more difficult than replacing the sensor you speak of, and you really should replace it any time you're down there just for insurance. If you go to advance auto, make sure you go for the superstant, not just the regular stant, they last a lot longer...

 

[NoSlo]

Also, you can drain the coolant down enough to work on the sensors and replace the thermostat (and throttle body/intake) by just getting a piece of surgical hose or vacuum hose about 6 feet long. Stick it into the top of the radiator cap down a foot or so to the bottom of the radiator, and siphon the coolant out like you were stealing gas into a bucket on the ground. Just a suck to start it (if you don't want an accidental mouthful of coolant, you can use a vacuum pump to start it going if you have one). You can almost drain as much coolant as removing the lower radiator hose this way, but you can stop draining when you have gotten out only as much as you want.