Clutch slipping at high rpm

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jared guptill

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im looking at buying a sho cus i sold my old one a few mounths ago and looking at a 1989 sho in mint con everything new im just trying to figuer out what could be the pro i think it could be over powered the car is puching 270-300hp with a stock cluch and its only got maybe 500miles ????


ok this cluch is slipping at 6000rpm its drives fine untill i push it to 6000rpm it will slip till your under 6000rpm its sometime hard to get in gear

one other thing could the trans cas this to happed at all ????

thanks for your time
 

jayro

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Did the last owner break the clutch in correctly? 270 to 300 is a pretty high number for a NA SHO. Even if it is pushing that, the stock clutch should not be slipping yet if it was correctly broken in. Does the trans grind or whine when you put it in gear? I'm not a trans expert, but to me it sounds like the clutch would be the place to start.
 

jared guptill

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nope the trans dose not grined or whine its in a rebilt trans?? i think with a QUAIFFE limited slip differential
 

jayro

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nope the trans dose not grined or whine its in a rebilt trans?? i think with a QUAIFFE limited slip differential

Quaife would be a nice score. Not sure what the person is asking, but for a reasonable price I would get it. Just plan on a new clutch. What else is done to it?
 

whiteguy3

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Some more info would help, but also writing correctly might too. I couldn't understand half of what you were saying...Literally.
 

jared guptill

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Some more info would help, but also writing correctly might too. I couldn't understand half of what you were saying...Literally.

this is the add i already looked at the car just want to know what is going on with the clutch


1989 FORD TAURUS SHO MTX, titanium mist, grey leather interior with 85,000 original miles. No rust, dents, dings or scratches. This car is in near mint condition. I am the 2nd owner. 3.0 bored to 3.2 balanced and blue printed, new forged pistons shaved to near flat top with estimated 11:1 compression, stage 1 cams, port matched and rebuilt heads, stiffer springs and bronze guides, 3.2 fuel injectors, extrude honed intake runners, big bore butterflies, big bore throttle body, 80mm MAF and Ted B. computer chip. Intake, valve covers, oil pan and other engine parts all powder coat painted metallic silver. Ram ducting to fog light location with K & N filter, under drive pulleys, modified engine mounts and dampers, custom ceramic coated equal length headers to single 3" resonator and back to dual with no cats. I have the custom pipes to make it into true dual exhaust. I changed to the single resonator due to noise. Lightweight aluminum flywheel, ceramic coated throw out bearings and Teflon bushings, new high performance clutch, QUAIFFE limited slip differential, new bearings, rod shifter, Tokico struts, Eibach lowering springs, solid aluminum sub frame bushings, F&R strut tower braces, adjustable rear suspension links, rear suspension box stiffener, 28 mm sway bars, polyurethane bushings on struts, 96 front brake upgrade with slotted rotors, larger t-bird rear rotors and all stainless steel brake lines, highly polished Lincoln Continental rims with 225/55/ZR tires, new starter, new alternator, all sensors are new, new water pump and valve shims adjusted, new belts, complete new 134a air conditioning system, and police grill. I also have a 91 fiberglass power bulge hood and rear 91 spoiler which are not installed. Very fast and still gets 25 mpg. Has clutch issues? and an engine tick possibly the cam chain tensioner? Tons of extra parts including slicers/tires, extra MTX, extra black interior (minus seats), intake, body moldings, lots more. $4,500.00 trades possible. Reply to ad with phone number and I will call you back. Thanks for looking.
 

jayro

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it is a vary nice car just got 2 problem the clutch and a tick

It depends if the tick is the top end of the engine or the bottom. Depending on the sound top end could be the tensioner as stated or something as simple as the injectors.....my injectors have made a ticking sound for as long as I can remember. An automotive stethoscope could help narrow it down. On the bottom end then I would think it would need the rod bearings replaced. When it is at operating temp does the oil light flicker when you push in the clutch and let the rpms drop? Bearings are not that expensive to buy and can be done easily on a Saturday.
 
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