Clutch self-adjuster help needed (pics inside)

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92ShoOff

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For the past 3 clutches I've put in my '92 I've had no luck getting my clutch pedal engagement adjusted by lifting on the pedal and pressing back down on it. The clutch will be engaging in a good spot of pedal travel (about mid-way of the full travel of the pedal) when the new clutch first gets in, but as soon as I started driving it hard and shifting fast I end up getting clutch engagement/disengagement with the pedal almost completely released.

A couple years ago I did some reading here on the forum, then poked my header under the dash with a flash light to locate the self-adjuster assembly. I poked around on the pawl and quadrant with a screw driver, but I wasn't exactly sure what I was doing and don't recall what position I ended find the quadrant in, nor what position I left it in when I was finished messing with it. On my second clutch job I had AAMCO install a new clutch cable for me, but not sure if they knew how to manually adjust the self-adjuster or not. Regardless, the catching point on the pedal ended up with the pedal almost totally released just like the other two times I had a clutch installed.

I just got my new motor together and threw on a whole new clutch kit to give this thing a whirl with a fresh start. New Fidanza flywheel insert, and new SPEC stage 2+ clutch disc and pressure plate. Along with that is the ceramic TOB and teflon-impregnated fork bushings. With all these new parts I want to get this thing right this time.

Tonight I took out the clutch pedal assembly and inspected everything. The teeth on both the pawl and the quadrant are in great shape. The springs have plenty of tension. Everything seems to be working correctly. But to see for your own eyes, here are a few pics of the teeth:

100 3585
100 3586
100 3587
100 3588

Now the only thing that I'm not 100% sure about is what exactly pushes up on the pawl to release it's teeth from the teeth on the quadrant when you pull backwards on the clutch pedal? Is it the clutch cable that makes contact with the pawl and releases it from the quadrant when you pull back on the pedal????? And with a new clutch cable and good teeth on the pawl and quadrant what else may cause the self adjuster to not function???

The only thing I'm thinking of is that maybe the WHOLE time I've had this problem the quadrant MAY have been rotated completely or almost completely outward where it has no more direction to rotate to take anymore slack. Come to think of it, my last clutch was slipping at high RPM often with the clutch pedal totally released. If the quadrant was tugging that TOB fork anymore than it's supposed then I'm sure that may have been my problem all this time. Wouldn't that scenario of the quadrant be rotated to the tightest cable position cause slippage like that and also cause the disengagement/engagement point on the pedal to be so high??? This could be why I've never gotten a "click" out of the pedal when pulling up on it! What do you all think?

Anyhow, I've re-assembled the self-adjuster assembly and have the quadrant rotated fully inward, to give the maximum amount of slack on the clutch cable. Then of course once I get everything hooked back up I'll pull up on the clutch pedal and see if I get anything out of it. But I'd really appreciate any good input that you all could give me on this!!

Thanks,
Andrew
 

Racer X

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When you pull up all the way on the pedal, there's a protrusion on the clutch pedal mounting bracket that will push the pawl off of the quadrant and let it release to adjust cable tension.
 

SHOIXIV

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I have a similar problem...Has anyone ever tried using the manual adjusters made for mustangs on this clutch pedal?
Example: http://thompsontransmission.com/techarticles/clutchcableadjustment.html

I recently installed the exact same clutch, TO, fork bushings that you did....
If I manually adjust the quadrant by pushing on it - forcing it to click - it shifts great for a trip down the road and back.

Then it will self adjust and loose the extra positions gained by manually adjusting it. Then I pick up a drag in all gears and will have intermitant problems getting it in gear.
I think this self adjuster quadrant has had problems since it was new - it always felt like second gear had a slight drag, and 3rd sometimes required double clutching.. I dont have the drag issue when that issue when it is adjusted properly.
 

Storm-Chaser

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I don't recall anyone having tried the Mustang adjuster in the Gen I/II V6 groups.


If you're having the problems and have a spare clutch cable, try swapping cables. A stretched cable will have the effect of moving the clutch relase point closer to the floor, increasing the possibility that the pressure plate is not fully releasing (unclamping) the disc. The firewall adjuster looks like it is designed for this problem.
 

Larkin660

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I have this same problem, when i reset the adjustment then i cant start the car because the clutch disengages right at the floor, i got a new cable and installed it yesterday and i adjusted it and it worked...until i got it down the street. i got it back and i tried adjusting it and even the slightest adjustment made it engage so high on the petal that the clutch slips and i cant even get it into gear and then after driving it for about 2 or 3 minutes the adjustment resets itself. i think it could be the self adjuster but the teeth looked good.
 

dodgebusta

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I have this same problem, when i reset the adjustment then i cant start the car because the clutch disengages right at the floor, i got a new cable and installed it yesterday and i adjusted it and it worked...until i got it down the street. i got it back and i tried adjusting it and even the slightest adjustment made it engage so high on the petal that the clutch slips and i cant even get it into gear and then after driving it for about 2 or 3 minutes the adjustment resets itself. i think it could be the self adjuster but the teeth looked good.

Seem to remember hearing about a recall on Jeeps that had the self adjusters, they had to end up making it only manually adjustable. If somebody near me has a pedal assy and an old clutch cable i might be able to rig something up that would work.
 

Lorenr

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Manual Adjustment of the Clutch

I've wondered about this ever since 1990 when I bought the car. I've never been able to tell if the adjuster worked since I've never heard it "click". Even when I manually lift the peddle. It has always released at the top of the peddle travel.

The clutch seems to operate fine (once I installed an updated assembly), but I've wondered if the ratchet system might be replaced with something else. Must be a better way at which point it may even shift better.

:omgsho:
 

Larkin660

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Where can i find a manual adjusting one for my car? i looked it up online and i only found ones for mustangs. would one for a mustang fit or do i have to go to a junkyard and pull one off a SHO there?
 

christiansho

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lincster2

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Plastic bushing

Theres a little plastic bushing that fits in the upper transmission housing..... I thought it wouldn't make a difference in shifting but after adding to to my bushingless trans if did.
The shifting is much easier.
Jusr my 2 cents.
 
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