clutch replacement questions (sorta long)

[HappyGoneMad]

I am having PP/TOB problems so I am going to have my clutch replaced but I am not going to do the work myself as I am lacking time/experience. From what I understand it's a rather big and complicated job on the SHO. My dad can get discount service and parts through his old work so I'm taking it there. The mechanic my dad knows is pretty good and has worked on SHO's before, including clutch jobs, but I doubt he is an expert on the SHO. In addition to the basic clutch kit and TOB, I understand that I should have the flywheel resurfaced as well. I also found a list of other parts that should be replaced such as the dowell pins for the flywheel, clutch cover-to-flywheel bolts, the TOB quill, the plastic pins that holds the TOB in place, the 2 plastic bushings, the felt washer and maybe the pinch bolts and rear main seal. I'm not even sure of the precise function of those last two. Anyways, I'm assuming the clutch kit won't come with anything more than the clutch disc, pressure plate and alignment tool, and the TOB will probably be stock revision B or whatever it's referred to. I'm not looking to spend any more money than necessary so my question is this: Other than the basic clutch kit, TOB and flywheel resurface, are any of those other clutch/trans related parts absolutely necessary to replace or can I get by without them (assuming that they are o.k. as is)? My car has over 113,000 miles and is driven lightly most of the time. The car's previous (2nd)owner took pretty good care of it and says he didn't drive it all that much but I have no idea about the car's first owner. What is the likelyhood of those parts being worn/broken/in need of replacement? I don't want to have to have the trans pulled back off because one of those little things failed but I really don't want to buy unecessary parts. If I had unlimited cash funds I would replace every little nut and bolt on the SHO but its just not possible. I'm in college! Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

 

[sideSHO]

The reason all the other parts are listed to be replaced with a clutch job is becuase you're already on there,go ahead and do it.For the absolute least money I'd say clutch kit,rear main (even IF it's not leaking) and if you're going to be saving alot on labor,get some ASFBs (aluminum subframe bushings)

 

[Blue-By-U]

Here is a nice list of the items you should replace: clutch disc, PP, PP bolts, TOB, TOB pin, TOB fork, TOB fork bushings, flywheel resurfaced, flywheel dowels, flywheel bolts (obsolete), rear main seal, crank carrier gasket, tranny fluid, pinch bolts and nuts, subframe bushings, subframe bushing bolts, exhaust studs...

Here is a minimum list of parts that should be replaced: clutch disc, PP, TOB, flywheel resurfaced, flywheel dowels, rear main seal, tranny fluid, pinch bolts and nuts...the rest is up to you. I would personally cough up the extra dough and have everything replaced. Heck, you can even refresh the tranny once it's out, but that will cost ya.

If you have any questions about the above parts shoot me a PM or post it here

 

[Cobraii976]

List of parts I used when I did mine at Easter this year. New disk Pressure Plate TOB. Quill. Fluid. Somehow the pinch bolts came out perfect and 5 minutes with the wire wheel cleaned them up nice. the felts and everything in mine were fine and if the TOP pin is not broken and your carefull it's reusable as long as you don't lose the little *******. Total labor time for me on my back 10 hours start to finish. Hunting freaking parts that I ordered worng 13 hours. In the end I scored a Kevlar faced clutch set for 350.00 New that had been sitting on a NAPA shelf for a few years. TOB and Quill were 20.00 the autozone unit is a nice TOB looks alot like the ceramic without the ceramic.New in ford packaging rear main seal from Ebay about 20 bucks. and fluid.Resurface and dowl pins well that was a freebie got a friend in the biz. So for about 400.00 I was in and out of it in a weekend and the Shotimes write up is a little false in some aspects. I've got a Michigan car and encoutered no broken bolts and only used the hot wrench one to heat the Y pipe bolts to drop it.
The best part of doing it yourself is the knowledge you gain of your own car. If your not willing to crack this thing open yourself be prepared to shell out serious cash or the other option shell out serious cash then end up selling it because it broke you. Trust me do this yourself so you know it's done right and if you get in trouble help is but a phone call away.

 

[NJSHO]

I would order a ceramic tob. From what I hear it will do less damage to your pressure plate fingers, making your clutch last longer.

 

[Blue-By-U]

I would order a ceramic tob. From what I hear it will do less damage to your pressure plate fingers, making your clutch last longer.

I also suggest the ceramic TOB.

www.shonutperformance.com
www.midwestsho.com

 

[d-man-sho]

Anyone know a good place to source flywheel & pressure plate bolts?

 

[shojuan]

Anyone know a good place to source flywheel & pressure plate bolts?

http://www.shonutperformance.com

If Josh doesn't have them (I didn't check) and can't point you in the right direction (doubt it) then ask Beth.