Dual Plenum92
New Member
This is my first time swapping clutches and i need some step by step instructions on how to do it on a 92. so if there is anyone out there who can help please do.
thanks
DP92 :headbang:
thanks
DP92 :headbang:
Clutch replacement help!!!
- Thread starter Dual Plenum92
- Start date
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iselltonsofthings
New Member
I did one on my 93 last summer and will be doing another either late this summer or early summer next year.
Here is a very simple explanation on what needs done. Remember, it was about a year ago since I did it so I'm sure I'll be forgetting some items. Other members will fill in the gaps.
1. Tools. Common sense will be a full set of sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, etc. More speciality items would be an engine hoist, torque wrench, Axel nut socket, an impact gun will make disassembly much easier.
2. Start by jacking up the vehicle and placing securely on jack stands. Safety first!!
2. Remove front wheels.
3. Have an assistant start the car and apply the brakes. Use the axle nut socket to remove loosen the axel nut. It makes it easier with someone holding the brakes. Shut off engine, remove key.
4. Remove all brakes.
5 loosen lower ball joint nut and use a prybar to pull the lower control arm free from the spindle. Do not use a ball joint seperator unless you plan on buying new lower control arms. They cost about $75 or so EACH.
6. Pull outward on the knuckle while pushing in on the drive shaft. Slide the knuckle over the end of the driveshaft.
7. crawl in where the clutch pedal is. I like to sit in the drivers seat upside down, so I can look under the dash board. Feet up by the headrest. Pull up on the clutch pedal while rotating the quadrant. This will allow plenty of slack in the clutch cable.
8. Remove the cable from the throw out fork arm, that is attached to the clutch.
9. Remove the speedometer cable from the tranny while you are there. The little wire pin that holds the cable in place and bit a real PITA "Pain In The ***". Take you time so that you do not cause damage to the retaining pin.
10. Support engine with engine hoist. Remember safety first. Apply about 1/4" of lift to the engine. This way you know the hoist is supporting the weight of the engine.
11. Loosen all of the nuts for the engine mounts. For the most part, the engine should be able to move around slightly.
12. Remove things that are in your way such as p/s cooler, 12v horns, etc.
13. Have an assistant help you with lowering the subframe. Put a jack on both sides and loosen the 4 main bolts. At the same time, both of you lower the jacks. Be careful that you don't lower the subframe too far. You can cause damage to the high pressure steering pump lines that connect to the rack.
14. Since you already have the drive shafts removed from the knuckes, now go ahead and pull the axles from the tranny. Have a catch pan ready for dripping fluids.
15. Remove the starter. and loosen all of the bolts holding the tranny to the engine.
16. Leave at least 1 bolt finger tight. This will prevent the weight of the tranny from hanging on the quill.
17. Once you have all but that 1 bolt removed, find the best way to support all of the tranny's weight while removing that last bolt. While still supporting all of the weight of the tranny, slight the tranny out from the engine. It will have to be lined up correctly or it will not slide. If you get frustrated or tired, reinstall that 1 bolt before letting go of the tranny. Take a break, stretch, and attack it again if it didn't come out on the first try. You are allowed to wiggle the tranny around a little bit to get it to slide free. Just don't let the weight hang there without support. Get my point?
18. Once you slide out the tranny, set it down on a piece of cardboard with newspapers. More than likely these will absorb the oil that is going to be dripping out.
19. Remove the bolts that hold the Pressure plate onto the flywheel.
20. Remove the Pressure plate and friction disc.
21. Remove the bolts holding the flywheel onto the engine. Send the flywheel out to be surface ground at a machine shop
22. Now look in the bell housing of the tranny. You will see the throwout bearing. Remove the little plastic pin that holds the TOB in place. More than likely it will break. Either pick up a new plastic pin at the ford dealership, or do what I did, and go buy a small stainless steel cotter pin. I did my clutch job on the weekend when the ford dealership was closed, so a cotter pin was my only choice.
23. Clean all debris such as clutch dust from the bell housing. Clean the quill also.
24. Reassembly is just about the exact opposite as removal.
Here are a few things to remember!
Make sure that you use a torque wrench when installing the flywheel bolts. ALSO use blue loctite. Do NOT skip out on the blue loctite. If all stores are closed and you do not have any, Tough. You will just have to wait till tomorrow.
While doing the clutch, now is a perfect time to change the rear main oil seal in the engine. Think about it this way, how much money and time did you just invest to changing out your clutch. If the oil seal starts leaking a week after you put the clutch back together, not only will you have to tear the thing all back apart, but you will also need to get another clutch. More than likely the oil will cause damage to the friction disk.
Also check all wear items, such as TOB release fork, release for bushings, consider buying a new clutch cable if yours is stretched for frayed.
Examine all suspension components on the car. If you have a bad control arm, now is the time to replace it since you are right there. Also examine the ring gear on the flywheel for damage from the starter. In simple words, examine everything. Don't tear the thing all apart a week later because you didn't fix the problem when you were in there.
I know that this is a long post, but actually it is really short compared to all the little details that you will notice once you start into tearing down the car. This might sound like a daunting task for the novice, but it really isn't all that bad. If you can change out your own brakes, or install new struts, then you should have no problem changing out the clutch.
I hope you will find this information useful. After you get done doing the clutch job, let us know how it went.
Sincerely, Scott :thumbs_u:
Here is a very simple explanation on what needs done. Remember, it was about a year ago since I did it so I'm sure I'll be forgetting some items. Other members will fill in the gaps.
1. Tools. Common sense will be a full set of sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, etc. More speciality items would be an engine hoist, torque wrench, Axel nut socket, an impact gun will make disassembly much easier.
2. Start by jacking up the vehicle and placing securely on jack stands. Safety first!!
2. Remove front wheels.
3. Have an assistant start the car and apply the brakes. Use the axle nut socket to remove loosen the axel nut. It makes it easier with someone holding the brakes. Shut off engine, remove key.
4. Remove all brakes.
5 loosen lower ball joint nut and use a prybar to pull the lower control arm free from the spindle. Do not use a ball joint seperator unless you plan on buying new lower control arms. They cost about $75 or so EACH.
6. Pull outward on the knuckle while pushing in on the drive shaft. Slide the knuckle over the end of the driveshaft.
7. crawl in where the clutch pedal is. I like to sit in the drivers seat upside down, so I can look under the dash board. Feet up by the headrest. Pull up on the clutch pedal while rotating the quadrant. This will allow plenty of slack in the clutch cable.
8. Remove the cable from the throw out fork arm, that is attached to the clutch.
9. Remove the speedometer cable from the tranny while you are there. The little wire pin that holds the cable in place and bit a real PITA "Pain In The ***". Take you time so that you do not cause damage to the retaining pin.
10. Support engine with engine hoist. Remember safety first. Apply about 1/4" of lift to the engine. This way you know the hoist is supporting the weight of the engine.
11. Loosen all of the nuts for the engine mounts. For the most part, the engine should be able to move around slightly.
12. Remove things that are in your way such as p/s cooler, 12v horns, etc.
13. Have an assistant help you with lowering the subframe. Put a jack on both sides and loosen the 4 main bolts. At the same time, both of you lower the jacks. Be careful that you don't lower the subframe too far. You can cause damage to the high pressure steering pump lines that connect to the rack.
14. Since you already have the drive shafts removed from the knuckes, now go ahead and pull the axles from the tranny. Have a catch pan ready for dripping fluids.
15. Remove the starter. and loosen all of the bolts holding the tranny to the engine.
16. Leave at least 1 bolt finger tight. This will prevent the weight of the tranny from hanging on the quill.
17. Once you have all but that 1 bolt removed, find the best way to support all of the tranny's weight while removing that last bolt. While still supporting all of the weight of the tranny, slight the tranny out from the engine. It will have to be lined up correctly or it will not slide. If you get frustrated or tired, reinstall that 1 bolt before letting go of the tranny. Take a break, stretch, and attack it again if it didn't come out on the first try. You are allowed to wiggle the tranny around a little bit to get it to slide free. Just don't let the weight hang there without support. Get my point?
18. Once you slide out the tranny, set it down on a piece of cardboard with newspapers. More than likely these will absorb the oil that is going to be dripping out.
19. Remove the bolts that hold the Pressure plate onto the flywheel.
20. Remove the Pressure plate and friction disc.
21. Remove the bolts holding the flywheel onto the engine. Send the flywheel out to be surface ground at a machine shop
22. Now look in the bell housing of the tranny. You will see the throwout bearing. Remove the little plastic pin that holds the TOB in place. More than likely it will break. Either pick up a new plastic pin at the ford dealership, or do what I did, and go buy a small stainless steel cotter pin. I did my clutch job on the weekend when the ford dealership was closed, so a cotter pin was my only choice.
23. Clean all debris such as clutch dust from the bell housing. Clean the quill also.
24. Reassembly is just about the exact opposite as removal.
Here are a few things to remember!
Make sure that you use a torque wrench when installing the flywheel bolts. ALSO use blue loctite. Do NOT skip out on the blue loctite. If all stores are closed and you do not have any, Tough. You will just have to wait till tomorrow.
While doing the clutch, now is a perfect time to change the rear main oil seal in the engine. Think about it this way, how much money and time did you just invest to changing out your clutch. If the oil seal starts leaking a week after you put the clutch back together, not only will you have to tear the thing all back apart, but you will also need to get another clutch. More than likely the oil will cause damage to the friction disk.
Also check all wear items, such as TOB release fork, release for bushings, consider buying a new clutch cable if yours is stretched for frayed.
Examine all suspension components on the car. If you have a bad control arm, now is the time to replace it since you are right there. Also examine the ring gear on the flywheel for damage from the starter. In simple words, examine everything. Don't tear the thing all apart a week later because you didn't fix the problem when you were in there.
I know that this is a long post, but actually it is really short compared to all the little details that you will notice once you start into tearing down the car. This might sound like a daunting task for the novice, but it really isn't all that bad. If you can change out your own brakes, or install new struts, then you should have no problem changing out the clutch.
I hope you will find this information useful. After you get done doing the clutch job, let us know how it went.
Sincerely, Scott :thumbs_u:
Scott aka sdpatt has an awesome write up on the clutch procedure.He also has pics of his clutch intall.
Kenny aka NotSoSlowSHO really helped me out on my install.Had answers for all my questions.
It's a really fun job :evil_gri:
Good luck
Kenny aka NotSoSlowSHO really helped me out on my install.Had answers for all my questions.
It's a really fun job :evil_gri:
Good luck
Bank of SHO
New Member
The video is indispensable for newbies like me. It comes with a step by step procedure. The video shows 'what and where', saving you time and guesswork.
Scott Patterson's write-up offers even more detail. I recommend both.
Scott Patterson's write-up offers even more detail. I recommend both.
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